Wheel Spacers So Many To Choose

l3igl3ang

New member
I got my 285 75 16s in today and going to install them tommaorw these tires look pretty narrow and tail so im going to put some wheel spacers on it but now sure which would look best. the 1.50" or 2" these are both the same price and i would like to go with the 2" if there wont be any issues but i seen the 1.50" on a 81 turck and it looked like it did pretty good the tires just barley stuck out pass the fenders. Any one here to share there pics and thought on them.
 
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I don't know what brand you were looking at, but Spidertrax is pretty much agreed to be the best. Paired with 33's I'd say go with 1.25" or 1.50"
 
I just put a set of All Pro spacers on mine and i'm pleased with how it turned out. I used 1.50" on the rear and 1.25" on the front.....running a 265/65/18 BFG KO.
 
The best ones to get are hub centric.

The bigger they are, the more they will cause rubbing issues in the front when turning. This is due to the larger arc that the tire must now take. I had zero rubbing, even fully flexing, (Yoko 265/75-16) without my 1.25" Spidertrax spacers. After, I have some rubbing at the back inner fender on both fronts.

FYI: the rear of our 4runners is ~1/2" narrower than the front.
 
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I don't know what brand you were looking at, but Spidertrax is pretty much agreed to be the best. Paired with 33's I'd say go with 1.25" or 1.50"

I'll second the Spidertrax recommendation. I put some of these on my rig over the weekend. Product is bulletproof and their service is killer.
 
what weight are you guys torqing the inner nuts to?

I just picked up a set from a local machinist and forgot to ask. I bought locktite to use with them.
 
what weight are you guys torqing the inner nuts to?

I just picked up a set from a local machinist and forgot to ask. I bought locktite to use with them.

90 ft/lbs. Then when I check their torque I'll check at ~87 ft/lbs, you don't want to break the loc-tite. Mine are always tight when I recheck them.

I also have a little trick. I cut two boards (1x3) and wedge them against my drivers seat and the brake pedal so I can "one man" torque the fronts. (one short board, maybe 6"-8" long, goes against the seat and a longer board, maybe 18"-24" long goes from that board to the pedal, then slide the seat forward) I also use this setup to change CVs by myself.
 
90 ft/lbs. Then when I check their torque I'll check at ~87 ft/lbs, you don't want to break the loc-tite. Mine are always tight when I recheck them.

I also have a little trick. I cut two boards (1x3) and wedge them against my drivers seat and the brake pedal so I can "one man" torque the fronts. (one short board, maybe 6"-8" long, goes against the seat and a longer board, maybe 18"-24" long goes from that board to the pedal, then slide the seat forward) I also use this setup to change CVs by myself.

Like I said before, this method works wonderfully.
 

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