When flexing (drooping) what keeps a coil in?
- Thread starter jross20
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4Reak Show
New member
I'm sure there are guys with a lot more infor than me but I'll chime in: basic answer is nothing keeps it in. Long answer is that it requires a looooong way down to fully relax the spring for it to fall out. Generally the shocks will limit thus travel unless you have limiting straps somewhere to limit it differently. And in my 2nd gen when I changed the springs on top of removing the lower shock bolts I also had to take off the lower control arm bolts to allow for more sag. 3rd gen's may be different specifically, but the principle is the same.
If you're worried, jack up the truck by the center of the rear diff, place 2 LARGE jack stands on the frame, and then lower the rear axle and see what happens. My guess is that it will fully droop, stop on shock when bottomed out, and then just hang there still under spring tension. This test simulates you taking your truck off a jump and catching hang time.
If you're worried, jack up the truck by the center of the rear diff, place 2 LARGE jack stands on the frame, and then lower the rear axle and see what happens. My guess is that it will fully droop, stop on shock when bottomed out, and then just hang there still under spring tension. This test simulates you taking your truck off a jump and catching hang time.
Black798
New member
Bump stops have absolutely zero control of the coils coming out, their sole purpose is to stop the suspension from compressing so that it doesnt over compress the shocks. The coils are held in by their own spring pressure and the axle down travel is limited by the shocks. In an ideal world the rear would have limit straps so the shocks arent supporting the load of the axle pulling on them but they are also designed for it. I recently built a 4runner up for someone and in the back he is running 14x2.5 kings. The truck had so much droop that when it drooped all the way out on both sides the coil spring had a 3 to 4 inch gap between it and the frame. What I did to make it so the coils couldn't come out under normal conditions was drill and tap holes to bolt the stock cone bumpstops to the frame. This allows the coil to come away from the frame and be guided back into its seat when the suspension cycles back up.
4Reak Show
New member
Bump stop info doesn't seem correct, but you're not wrong about not wanting shocks being the limiting factor. BUT: that's how it's designed from factory. Also, the amount of time at full droop is likely going to be at very low speed and for a short time. I would think this to be highly unlikely to cause damage. If someone is concerned about drooping on the shocks too much, then limiting straps is the solution.
jross20
New member
Okay thanks for all the replies guys. I'll try to do some simulated tests this weekend.
I guess it might not be a bad idea to put limit straps back there, I've already got some for the front I'm going to install soon.
Any recommendations? Or are the rear ones basically just doing custom work?
I guess it might not be a bad idea to put limit straps back there, I've already got some for the front I'm going to install soon.
Any recommendations? Or are the rear ones basically just doing custom work?
4runnerfiend
New member
You shocks and sway bar will limit. Tests are good.. Jack it up put stands under the frame... Probably have to take the wheels off and let it fully droop see what happens. Pretty sure will the tundra 5100 you there is not enough travel in the shock to allow it, and if you have a sway bar there is no way it will happen.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes I pulled a few 4 runners rear end out and changes many of springs. I actually will take the rear shock bolt out and pull the lower control bolt out to remove the springs as you can swing the rear end enough to slide the springs out
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
With everything still connected, the only way I get the rear coils out is by using the bottle jack to press down the axle as far as it can go. Only then will the coils find their way out. When not compressed, they are much longer than you would think.
jross20
New member
Okay I feel a lot better now... Haha. Thanks guys.
I'm so exited to finally take on some trails, but I want to be absolutely sure I won't break shit the first time we do so...
I'll still do some tests just to make sure... I always like to know something is 100% good. Also, should I perhaps retest after extending the sway bar links?
I'm so exited to finally take on some trails, but I want to be absolutely sure I won't break shit the first time we do so...
I'll still do some tests just to make sure... I always like to know something is 100% good. Also, should I perhaps retest after extending the sway bar links?
brillo_76
Elite Member
Besides pulling the lower shock bolt and the lower control arm bolt to get them out... You can also use the strut coil spring compressor to compress the springs to get them out. Not much room to work with in there. I so mostly just pull the bolts and swing the axle.. I hold the 4 runner with 2 6 ton jack stands on the frame right in front of the lower control arm brackets. That really gives me some good height and makes it super easy pull the springs. I also would have 2 6 ton jack stands in the front to keep the rig level while doing things like this.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
4runnerfiend
New member
When you are modifying the suspension it is a good idea to do tests to see what is happening before taking it out.
Also take a look at the rear brake line to make sure you are not stretching it to much at full droop
thezentree
Senior Member
You mean those rubber hoses that connect to the brake cylinders, right?
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
hahahahahaha - you're my favorite today. lol
