Where is the COR on a 99 3.4L?

mdrob1985

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99 was having issues with rough running/long starts when hot. Cold start was great. Eventually tripped a 306 code cyl 4. Replaced plugs, coil packs and wires. Started right up then ran great on test drive (30 mi). Parked started up again and ran rough, got check engine light and multiple misfires (304, 306). Next day started in up to pull into my garage and of course it started immediately and ran great into the bay. Replaced all 6 injectors just because I was already in there. Reassembled and now it cranks, kicks off like it wants to light up but dies. No fuel. No noise coming from pump area with ignition on. Removed EFI fuse and relay and replaced. No change. I have looked at the diagram, google, forums here, etc and cannot determine where the Circuit Open Relay is. Really hoping it's not the fuel pump. I just don't have the space and equipment to replace that. Would have to go to the shop for this $$$. It was getting fuel fine until I changed the injectors and reassembled. Any ideas? I am definitely not an electrical guy. I was happy with points, condensers and carburetors. Thanks!
 
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99 was . Really hoping it's not the fuel pump. I just don't have the space and equipment to replace that. Would have to go to the shop for this $$$. It was getting fuel fine until I changed the injectors and reassembled. Any ideas? I am definitely not an electrical guy. I was happy with points, condensers and carburetors. Thanks!

if it's not electrical issue and it comes down to replacing the fuel pump. it's really not that bad I did the job last year while we were moving houses in the street took me three hours in the cold at night couldnt push the truck up the driveway into the garage. I used a floor jack with a piece of plywood to lower the tank hardest part the rest was fairly simple.
ordered parts from amazon and had them over nighted cost extra but worth it to me
there are writeups on the forum. I am not sure but there might be a video. I had the same symptoms without the misfire and when I tested the fuel pump it was toast after 350k miles
good luck.
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if it's not electrical issue and it comes down to replacing the fuel pump. it's really not that bad I did the job last year while we were moving houses in the street took me three hours in the cold at night couldnt push the truck up the driveway into the garage. I used a floor jack with a piece of plywood to lower the tank hardest part the rest was fairly simple.
ordered parts from amazon and had them over nighted cost extra but worth it to me
there are writeups on the forum. I am not sure but there might be a video. I had the same symptoms without the misfire and when I tested the fuel pump it was toast after 350k miles
good luck.
View attachment 312685

Note that Denso 950-0100 is a kit that includes both the pump AND the strainer, but not the tank gasket.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00274XAEK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
here is a good writeup from [MENTION=147235]Renegade_Medic[/MENTION] for the fuel pump

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...hread-mothra-blown-budget-camping-rig-15.html

Yep, it's not a bad job. Make sure the tank is almost empty and get some long reach needle nose pliers (90 degrees) makes life simple.
To answer the question, I'm fairly certain there is a diode on the fuse box under the dash, on the bottom. Has the diode arrow symbol on it. Pretty sure its white or off white. May be what you're looking for.
I think there is also a test port on the diagnostic box on the engine to power the fuel pump on to test it.
 

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