where is this leaking from?

[tylerbaird21]

Just to put my experience into the mix...my mechanic did the die test because I believed my trans oil pan was leaking somewhere and they believed rear main seal. They claimed the die test showed rear main seal.
Long story short, I never received a quote from them and decided to clean as much as I could like you did, and change the oil and filter.
Once I did all of that, the leak I was having went away. I believe it was something with the oil filter spraying oil everywhere. My VC gasket does need to be redone soon, and like everyone has said...rear main seal not worth it unless already doing an engine swap. I will also second and third the rust prevention plus being in Chicago:usa2:

 

[gamefreakgc]

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION], records of PO with 01 used cheap oil change on time, bore scope in VC showed minimal sludge when looking at it.
Home I went oil change T4, 1st T4 change was nasty, 2nd nasty not as bad, 3rd best yet 9k mi of T4.
Did VC gaskets all that's left is a dark gold color not varnish on parts of heads.
Jhelms posted he'd been using it for couple yr 2 yr ago, gave it a shot.
I like it, see no diff with cleaning abilities between the two.
Pick your poison kind of thing, My Audi came with Motul Syn that chit $9.00/qt takes 9 qt, it gets T6 Rotella.

I had a mechanic do the first oil change to see if he could find anything else I needed to address (an actual honest mechanic) and he said my 4Runner had some of the darkest, sludgiest oils he'd ever seen in his entire career. We actually did TWO engine oil flush treatments to get as much as the junk out of there as possible. Says a lot on how forgiving these engines are!

I understand the difference between that golden varnish which is perfectly normal, and sludge. Mine had sludge, and synthetic AMSOIL did a great job breaking it down slowly. Plus I am lazy and I like the one a year oil changes.

 

[Lamer]

Just to put my experience into the mix...my mechanic did the die test because I believed my trans oil pan was leaking somewhere and they believed rear main seal. They claimed the die test showed rear main seal.
Long story short, I never received a quote from them and decided to clean as much as I could like you did, and change the oil and filter.
Once I did all of that, the leak I was having went away. I believe it was something with the oil filter spraying oil everywhere. My VC gasket does need to be redone soon, and like everyone has said...rear main seal not worth it unless already doing an engine swap. I will also second and third the rust prevention plus being in Chicago:usa2:

ya I checked around the filter thoroughly, that area shows no signs of oil at all. I'm hoping this morning I can take a look and see if I can spot the source.

 

[96RedRunner]

synthetic AMSOIL did a great job breaking it down slowly..

Choosing oil brands is like picking your bourbon/beer brand you like what you like,
all serve the purpose.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Choosing oil brands is like picking your bourbon/beer brand you like what you like,
all serve the purpose.

Yes, thankfully our engines are not picky at all. I've heard that a lot of European makes are, like you mentioned with your Audi. I've seen BMW's that turn into really, really scary sludge monsters if you don't give it the exact oil it wants.

 

[96RedRunner]

Yes, thankfully our engines are not picky at all. I've seen BMW's that turn into really, really scary sludge monsters if you don't give it the exact oil it wants.

Amen to the 5VZ, did my research on Audi 4.2 V8 before I bought, no sludge problems, BMW 4.4 oh yea. Checked before swap to Rotella also.

 

[BostonJon]

Hi everyone - i'm new to the forum so it seems that I'm not allowed to make a new post until i've replied to a certain number of other threads so my apologies for the hijack, but I need help identifying a leak at the rear differential housing. I've cleaned everything and isolated the leak to the front side of the differential where the large cone-shaped objects mounts to the differential housing with bolts in a circular pattern. it's not the pinion seal but the seal between the differential housing and the cone. i cant find the part number for this seal. does anyone know what it is and how hard it would be to replace? seems like i could drop the back end of the rear drive shaft and unbolt the cone (carrier?).

 

[phattyduck]

Hi everyone - i'm new to the forum so it seems that I'm not allowed to make a new post until i've replied to a certain number of other threads so my apologies for the hijack, but I need help identifying a leak at the rear differential housing. I've cleaned everything and isolated the leak to the front side of the differential where the large cone-shaped objects mounts to the differential housing with bolts in a circular pattern. it's not the pinion seal but the seal between the differential housing and the cone. i cant find the part number for this seal. does anyone know what it is and how hard it would be to replace? seems like i could drop the back end of the rear drive shaft and unbolt the cone (carrier?).

The gasket is 42181-60020, assuming you don't have a rear differential lock (there would be a motor on the side of the differential carrier if you do, that PN is 42181-60050). The leak you are describing is between the differential carrier (third member) and axle housing. You can either use the OEM gasket or RTV in that location, your choice.

To pull the 3rd member out, you need to pull the axles out a few inches, along with dropping the driveshaft. You may be able to get away with leaving the brake lines attached at the rear brakes, but maybe not. Be careful, the third member is much heavier than you think (probably 80 lbs?).

Depending on the rust situation, you may also need a few new nuts and studs for the housing bolts.

-Charlie

 

[BostonJon]

To pull the 3rd member out, you need to pull the axles out a few inches

-Charlie

Thank you! How tricky is it to get the axles pulled out? If i were to use RTV instead of the gasket, could I slip a bead around the rim without pulling the axles?

 

[phattyduck]

Thank you! How tricky is it to get the axles pulled out? If i were to use RTV instead of the gasket, could I slip a bead around the rim without pulling the axles?

You need to clean the mating surface to use RTV, so that probably wouldn't work.

Wheels off, drain gear oil, 4 nuts on the back of the backing plate, e-brake cable, brake line and it'll come out. Check for leaking axle seals while you are there...

-Charlie

 

[weekendclimber]

3rd Member Replacement

This shows all the steps. You'll basically want to pull the differential (3rd member, pumpkin), clean it all up and then use the RTV to seal them back up.

 

[BostonJon]

You need to clean the mating surface to use RTV, so that probably wouldn't work.

Wheels off, drain gear oil, 4 nuts on the back of the backing plate, e-brake cable, brake line and it'll come out. Check for leaking axle seals while you are there...

-Charlie

thanks again! thankfully, the axle seals are dry (for now). does the axle shaft bind to the backing plate or should it slide out pretty easily?