What are you running for a suspension and what mods are you running? Sprung and Unsprung weight are going to factor into the equation as well as your Spring Rate, Shocks, and associated modifications to the suspension. Most of the time Cupping is caused by the suspension unable to control tire rebound when driving, which could be caused by a failed shock; but in the case of most lifted vehicles its caused by a mismatch in mods. If the spring and shock cannot properly control the up and down motion of the tire then the tire will skip and start to cup. Some of this can be offset by creating a greater traction pattern (because cupping typically happens on the inner or outer edges where the tire will touch first or last when it is off the ground) through alignment and tire choice; air pressure is also a factor as the wider the contact patch the less likely the tire is to skip (though not guaranteed.)
This is the more complicated part of modifying a vehicle when it comes to off-roading or racing; anyone can slap on X-Brand Parts and do a half-assed job tuning them and get decent performance off-road or on the track. But making the vehicle work on-road as well requires "tuning" that most people have no experience or are too impatient to learn (not accusing you of anything, just stating my personal experience and observations.)
People like [MENTION=26817]SkylineGTRracer[/MENTION] [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] [MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION], ect. probably have some experience in this department from their various experience. But bottom line is, if the vehicle is spending its life off-road I wouldn't give a crap about the above wall of text; if you're gonna drive it at least half on-road you're gonna want to pick a tire that has decent on-road manners and factor in the additional weight/tire qualities in concert with your modifications to make sure you have the proper suspension and adjustability in said setup to compensate for how these tires affect on-road performance.