Which Bilstein 5100 Part Number?

[krmccour]

My sway-a-way front coilovers are shot. I have OME shocks/springs in the rear and want to run Bilstein 5100/Tundra coils to replace the front sway-a-way coilovers (they've been rebuilt previously, would rebuild again but they are quite rusty now).

I read through dozens of lift threads, and found tons of information, but I still have one question. Most threads state that they run "Tundra Bilstein 5100's" with Tundra coils. Are they running the "Tundra" Biletein's because they have to match the Tundra coils?

For example, toyteclifts sells Billstein 5100 shocks specifically for 3rd gen runners (part #D558), so why would I use the Tundra 5100 (part #B-6929) over the 4Runner 5100?

In my mind it's because you need to match the shocks to the coils, so Tundra coils means you need the Tundra Bilstein's. If I were to, for example, go with the OME 881 coils, would I then be able to get the 4Runner Bilstein's?

 

[Cadaverous]

I would imagine it's because the tundra 5100's are designed/valved for a larger, heavier truck.

 

[whiskytango]

I have researched the hell out if this lately and just pulled the trigger on the tundra 5100 with tundra progressive springs set up. What I gathered from reading all the lift threads is that the D558 is valved for Tacomas and, while it works for 4runner, many people seem to complain about the ride when used in a 4runner. I suggest you search for posts along those lines. I personally saw enough good things written about the tundra front setup over the D558 Taco/4runner fronts to convince me to take that route.

Again, not speaking from personal experience with the D558, but I'm just saying the info is there in all these lift threads and is what helped me make my decision.

 

[mycocobean]

I think the ones that Toytec sells specifically for the 4Runner are the same Tundra ones just with the shock eye bushing replaced to fit the 4Runner. The Tundra bushing has an ID of 0.50" but the 4Runner uses a 0.75".

 

[whiskytango]

I think the ones that Toytec sells specifically for the 4Runner are the same Tundra ones just with the shock eye bushing replaced to fit the 4Runner. The Tundra bushing has an ID of 0.50" but the 4Runner uses a 0.75".

You're talking about rears. OP is talking about fronts.

 

[mycocobean]

You're talking about rears. OP is talking about fronts.

Oops that's my bad skimmed over it too fast. :roadkill:

 

[krmccour]

Thanks for the info guys. I've narrowed it down to three combinations for the front, with varying prices.

$530 + shipping = Tundra coils/Tundra Bilstein 5100's
$470 + shipping = OME 881's/OME 90004's
$420 + shipping = OME 881's/Tundra Bilstein 5100's

Since I'm currently dumping money into my stupid transmission (M/T has been nothing but a headache, have grown to really dislike it, wish I had an auto at this point), I want to do the OME 881's with Tundra Bilstein 5100's. Anyone had any experience with this combination?

 

[Myrunr2010]

Thanks for the info guys. I've narrowed it down to three combinations for the front, with varying prices.

$530 + shipping = Tundra coils/Tundra Bilstein 5100's
$470 + shipping = OME 881's/OME 90004's
$420 + shipping = OME 881's/Tundra Bilstein 5100's

Since I'm currently dumping money into my stupid transmission (M/T has been nothing but a headache, have grown to really dislike it, wish I had an auto at this point), I want to do the OME 881's with Tundra Bilstein 5100's. Anyone had any experience with this combination?

What's wrong with your trans? I've had great luck with my manual so far, definitely wouldn't trade for an auto...

 

[krmccour]

Well, I had been having problems shifting into various gears for months that was progressively getting worse. Turns out the pressure plate forks were breaking off and wreaking havoc. So I had the clutch/pp/TOB/flywheel all replaced. I also replaced the master and slave cylinders. This was about 2 months ago. It shifted good after replacing all of that, but going from 1st-2nd sometimes wasn't as smooth as it should be, and sometimes when I'm going from 5th down to 4th it hits a "wall" and pauses before going into gear. Now the TOB started whining, but when I pull the clutch fork towards the slave cylinder, it goes away, so for some reason the TOB has been sitting on the pressure plate all this time. I greased the clutch fork up but it still chirps when the clutch pedal isn't pushed in. If you simply touch the clutch fork, there is a ton of vibration when it is at rest (and apparently against PP), so I don't know if the PP fingers are now uneven or the TOB isn't aligned right or the clutch fork isn't attached to the TOB correctly. The slave cylinder piston is putting minimal pressure on the clutch fork at rest (all AISIN hydraulic parts), so I had to order a camera scope so I can look inside without having to drop the whole dang thing again. I have always driven a stick, but this trans hasn't worked right in over a year and I'm sick of cringing every time I shift

 

[Myrunr2010]

Well, I had been having problems shifting into various gears for months that was progressively getting worse. Turns out the pressure plate forks were breaking off and wreaking havoc. So I had the clutch/pp/TOB/flywheel all replaced. I also replaced the master and slave cylinders. This was about 2 months ago. It shifted good after replacing all of that, but going from 1st-2nd sometimes wasn't as smooth as it should be, and sometimes when I'm going from 5th down to 4th it hits a "wall" and pauses before going into gear. Now the TOB started whining, but when I pull the clutch fork towards the slave cylinder, it goes away, so for some reason the TOB has been sitting on the pressure plate all this time. I greased the clutch fork up but it still chirps when the clutch pedal isn't pushed in. If you simply touch the clutch fork, there is a ton of vibration when it is at rest (and apparently against PP), so I don't know if the PP fingers are now uneven or the TOB isn't aligned right or the clutch fork isn't attached to the TOB correctly. The slave cylinder piston is putting minimal pressure on the clutch fork at rest (all AISIN hydraulic parts), so I had to order a camera scope so I can look inside without having to drop the whole dang thing again. I have always driven a stick, but this trans hasn't worked right in over a year and I'm sick of cringing every time I shift

Oh sheesh! That is terrible!

 

[krmccour]

I was to the point of looking for a whole new trans today because I'm sick of fiddling with this one hahaha