Which gears - 4.56 or 4.88 for my situation (see description)

[Annolino122]

Been planning a regear this spring to 4.88s with the intentions of going to 35" tires. This also with "help" compensate for the loss of HP/torque at higher elevations, especially when climbing from 5k ft to 9k+. This will also allow us to add armor and not have to worry about added weight.

With this though, my wife and I have a plan to change our overlanding set up to a Vintage Trailer Works XTR to be able to haul toys, have a safe place for the dogs to stay if we aren't at camp, and adding a lot of creature comforts to the build. It'll also allow us to unhook the 4Runner and go do more technical trails without having to worry about all the weight we are carrying, especially the RTT on top. (We've done some serious off roaring with it all, just want to be able to push it more).

Fully loaded, the trailer will probably weight close to 3k lbs would be my guess.

Now the question/ TL: DR:

Are 4.88s too aggressive for hauling a trailer on 35's? Will it be screaming at 70+ mph?

Has anyone had any experience with a fully armored 4Runner with 4.56 gears on 35" tires pulling a trailer?

Thanks for any input or experience

 

[jdm-v35]

Been planning a regear this spring to 4.88s with the intentions of going to 35" tires. This also with "help" compensate for the loss of HP/torque at higher elevations, especially when climbing from 5k ft to 9k+. This will also allow us to add armor and not have to worry about added weight.

With this though, my wife and I have a plan to change our overlanding set up to a Vintage Trailer Works XTR to be able to haul toys, have a safe place for the dogs to stay if we aren't at camp, and adding a lot of creature comforts to the build. It'll also allow us to unhook the 4Runner and go do more technical trails without having to worry about all the weight we are carrying, especially the RTT on top. (We've done some serious off roaring with it all, just want to be able to push it more).

Fully loaded, the trailer will probably weight close to 3k lbs would be my guess.

Now the question/ TL: DR:

Are 4.88s too aggressive for hauling a trailer on 35's? Will it be screaming at 70+ mph?

Has anyone had any experience with a fully armored 4Runner with 4.56 gears on 35" tires pulling a trailer?

Thanks for any input or experience

It would probably be screaming >70mph and eat a ton of gas, but thats the compromise. There are other posts with estimated rpm calculations as well. I think people mentioned a close feel for 4.88 would be not using 5th gear at all. So drive your route without going beyond 4th and that would be a close estimate. But even worse with 35's and way worse with a trailer.

35's and a trailer would be pushing it imo, and you would be better off with trading towards a tundra or some other v8 truck.

 

[T4R_Canuck]

Been planning a regear this spring to 4.88s with the intentions of going to 35" tires. This also with "help" compensate for the loss of HP/torque at higher elevations, especially when climbing from 5k ft to 9k+. This will also allow us to add armor and not have to worry about added weight.

With this though, my wife and I have a plan to change our overlanding set up to a Vintage Trailer Works XTR to be able to haul toys, have a safe place for the dogs to stay if we aren't at camp, and adding a lot of creature comforts to the build. It'll also allow us to unhook the 4Runner and go do more technical trails without having to worry about all the weight we are carrying, especially the RTT on top. (We've done some serious off roaring with it all, just want to be able to push it more).

Fully loaded, the trailer will probably weight close to 3k lbs would be my guess.

Now the question/ TL: DR:

Are 4.88s too aggressive for hauling a trailer on 35's? Will it be screaming at 70+ mph?

Has anyone had any experience with a fully armored 4Runner with 4.56 gears on 35" tires pulling a trailer?

Thanks for any input or experience

Funny you should ask this right now, as I was just doing these calculations yesterday. Here are my findings, in 5th gear;

Stock: 31.6" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1988 RPM
Current: 33" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1903 RPM
35" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1794 RPM (too low)
35" tires with 4.88 gears @ 70MPH = 2350 RPM
35" tires with 4.56 gears @ 70MPH = 2200 RPM (sweet spot imo)

I see no reason why you couldn't tow a small trailer with 35's and either 4.56 or 4.88 as long as you kept the speeds reasonable (70MPH or under). In 4th gear you'd be running at 70MPH between 3000rpm (4.56) and 3300rpm (4.88).

 

[mcat707]

I have a 2015 T4R and run 34” MT tires (285/75/17), along with a steel bumper, winch, under carriage skids, rock sliders, Gobi roof rack, and other miscellaneous shit inside the rig.

The rearend shop that I went to installed 4.88s

The shop owner and installer said 4.56 would feel close to stock and 4.88 was recommended.

 

[jdm-v35]

I have a 2015 T4R and run 34” MT tires (285/75/17), along with a steel bumper, winch, under carriage skids, rock sliders, Gobi roof rack, and other miscellaneous shit inside the rig.

The rearend shop that I went to installed 4.88s

The shop owner and installer said 4.56 would feel close to stock and 4.88 was recommended.

what type of rpm's do you see at 70 and 80 mph?

 

[mrblah]

4.88 no regrets lol.

 

[mcat707]

what type of rpm's do you see at 70 and 80 mph?

Usually around 2000 to 2500. I’m also highly considering moving up to 35s after my 34s wear out so I’m glad I went with 4.88

 

[Jeremy556]

35s at 5800lb curb weight with 4.56 gears and elevation. Every time I hook up a trailer, I wish I had 4.88, 5.30s, or an extra 100 ft/lb below 3000rpms

 

[jdm-v35]

35s at 5800lb curb weight with 4.56 gears and elevation. Every time I hook up a trailer, I wish I had 4.88, 5.30s, or an extra 100 ft/lb below 3000rpms

I would think it would be screaming on I70 with 4.88 or more. With tons of weight, 35s and a trailer brakes would probably be the next weak point.

 

[Annolino122]

Funny you should ask this right now, as I was just doing these calculations yesterday. Here are my findings, in 5th gear;

Stock: 31.6" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1988 RPM
Current: 33" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1903 RPM
35" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1794 RPM (too low)
35" tires with 4.88 gears @ 70MPH = 2350 RPM
35" tires with 4.56 gears @ 70MPH = 2200 RPM (sweet spot imo)

I see no reason why you couldn't tow a small trailer with 35's and either 4.56 or 4.88 as long as you kept the speeds reasonable (70MPH or under). In 4th gear you'd be running at 70MPH between 3000rpm (4.56) and 3300rpm (4.88).

This is much appreciated!! It definitely answers the question that the couple hundred RPM is not worth being concerned about weight to me, I'd rather have. 4.88 gear and be able to move everything confidently and just drive a little slower!

 

[Annolino122]

Funny you should ask this right now, as I was just doing these calculations yesterday. Here are my findings, in 5th gear;

Stock: 31.6" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1988 RPM
Current: 33" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1903 RPM
35" tires with 3.73 gears @ 70MPH = 1794 RPM (too low)
35" tires with 4.88 gears @ 70MPH = 2350 RPM
35" tires with 4.56 gears @ 70MPH = 2200 RPM (sweet spot imo)

I see no reason why you couldn't tow a small trailer with 35's and either 4.56 or 4.88 as long as you kept the speeds reasonable (70MPH or under). In 4th gear you'd be running at 70MPH between 3000rpm (4.56) and 3300rpm (4.88).

I have a 2015 T4R and run 34” MT tires (285/75/17), along with a steel bumper, winch, under carriage skids, rock sliders, Gobi roof rack, and other miscellaneous shit inside the rig.

The rearend shop that I went to installed 4.88s

The shop owner and installer said 4.56 would feel close to stock and 4.88 was recommended.

Haha I don't want stock, I want a little better!

 

[Annolino122]

4.88 no regrets lol.

I am leaning that way for future purposes of the build as well!

 

[Annolino122]

35s at 5800lb curb weight with 4.56 gears and elevation. Every time I hook up a trailer, I wish I had 4.88, 5.30s, or an extra 100 ft/lb below 3000rpms

Thank you for confirming my worry, this has solidified my choice!

 

[Annolino122]

I would think it would be screaming on I70 with 4.88 or more. With tons of weight, 35s and a trailer brakes would probably be the next weak point.

There are new wireless trailer brakes that you can get that work with the brake pedal, its pretty awesome and excited to try it when we get a trailer

 

[Annolino122]

If your going to be pulling the trailer any amount of time in the mountains I would highly recommend going with a supercharger and 4.56 gearing. 4.88 is too much with a supercharger.
I pull a square drop Explorer TDK and it SUCKS with 4.88 gearing alone in the mountains. Did I70 once and it was horrible pulling, had to drop down to 2nd a few times. Since I have found other routes. On flat land its ok. I run 285/70e on both and I am fully rigged up. Only thing left to add is a supercharger when ever I decide its worth changing all my switch pro wiring around, and install my PowerBrakes sitting in the basement. The thin air at elevations (CO) and added weight with pulling needs something special to help compensate like a turbo or supercharger. I'm typically in the 4-5000rpm range sometimes approaching 6k when in the mountains.

My cat scale readouts are:

Without trailer
Steer Axle 3040#
Drive Axle 3320#
Gross Weight 6360#

With Trialer
Steer Axle 3000#
Drive Axle 3680#
Trailer Axle 2800#
Gross Weight 9480#

Couldn't imagine what the weights would be if I had chosen steel for everything versus aluminum.

Since then I have removed the GOBI rack and replaced with a direct mount GFC and only driven this on flat land with the trailer. With the added wind drag I am not looking forward to driving this in the mountains now with a trailer. The trailer will likely be left behind.

Only thing i see here is you geared way too high for your tire size, 4.88 are not recommended for anything less than a 35" tire. Even a 34" tire will require you to spin them too fast. in your situation on 33's i would have 100% gone with a 4.56.

To that point though, if i ever spend the money to get a SC on the truck, ill spend the money to go down to a 4.56 IF i feel it sucks. but my plans right now are 35' tires, then eventually a LT with 37" tires, so teh 4.88 will be perfect middle ground for now

 

[comtn4x4]

Been planning a regear this spring to 4.88s with the intentions of going to 35" tires. This also with "help" compensate for the loss of HP/torque at higher elevations, especially when climbing from 5k ft to 9k+. This will also allow us to add armor and not have to worry about added weight.

With this though, my wife and I have a plan to change our overlanding set up to a Vintage Trailer Works XTR to be able to haul toys, have a safe place for the dogs to stay if we aren't at camp, and adding a lot of creature comforts to the build. It'll also allow us to unhook the 4Runner and go do more technical trails without having to worry about all the weight we are carrying, especially the RTT on top. (We've done some serious off roaring with it all, just want to be able to push it more).

Fully loaded, the trailer will probably weight close to 3k lbs would be my guess.

Now the question/ TL: DR:

Are 4.88s too aggressive for hauling a trailer on 35's? Will it be screaming at 70+ mph?

Has anyone had any experience with a fully armored 4Runner with 4.56 gears on 35" tires pulling a trailer?

Thanks for any input or experience

My suggestion would be to find someone who has a rig set up similar to what you're thinking about doing and see if they'll let you drive it. The opinions, chart, and graphs are great, however, they are a mathematical interpretation of the relationship between the engine/gears/tires. They make no account for friction, tire type, tire pressure, altitude, oxygen levels or inclines. You want to feel what it does, not see it on paper.
And unfortunately, the reality is re gearing while it does a lot, simply doesn't make up for lack of power.

 

[srsrogerissrs]

My suggestion would be to find someone who has a rig set up similar to what you're thinking about doing and see if they'll let you drive it. The opinions, chart, and graphs are great, however, they are a mathematical interpretation of the relationship between the engine/gears/tires. They make no account for friction, tire type, tire pressure, altitude, oxygen levels or inclines. You want to feel what it does, not see it on paper.
And unfortunately, the reality is re gearing while it does a lot, simply doesn't make up for lack of power.

Totally agree with this. Here in CO, even with gears, the issue is the severe lack of power that is only exacerbated by the elevation. Armor, 35s, and a trailer is all working against you when going up the long steep grades on 70. A transmission cooler, staying out of the 5th, and momentum will be your friend.

 

[jdm-v35]

There are new wireless trailer brakes that you can get that work with the brake pedal, its pretty awesome and excited to try it when we get a trailer

I think you got my context wrong.. I don't mean trailer brakes. What I mean is the 4runner brakes will be hurting if you run 35's plus pull a trailer.

 

[4rNCMTNs]

I think you got my context wrong.. I don't mean trailer brakes. What I mean is the 4runner brakes will be hurting if you run 35's plus pull a trailer.

I will second this. You should consider getting stronger brakes if you move forward with what you mention above.

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[T4R_Canuck]

This is much appreciated!! It definitely answers the question that the couple hundred RPM is not worth being concerned about weight to me, I'd rather have. 4.88 gear and be able to move everything confidently and just drive a little slower!

Yeah, I agree. The more I look at the data, the more I lean towards 4.88 myself. Bottom end would be better on road for acceleration, better for towing and far better for crawling off road, especially considering how tall 1st gear is.

The only real draw back is top speed and fuel economy, but lets face it, with stock 3.73 gears and 33" tires i'm barely getting 15mpg highway in ideal situations and day to day it's closer to 8mpg. haha