Im looking at your avatar, and than taking that into consideration when you mention your "top line aftermarket units wore out in ~20-30,000 miles."
What manufacturer were your top of the line units?
Which lower ball joints to get??
- Thread starter duffbeer911
- Start date
Im looking at your avatar, and than taking that into consideration when you mention your "top line aftermarket units wore out in ~20-30,000 miles."
What manufacturer were your top of the line units?
Gerdo
New member
I don't remember but my parts guy, a good friend of mine, knows that I want the best that he sells. I don't remember the exact mileage but they were looser than I like. I replaced them with OE and have had zero issues.
The best he sells may be the bottom of the line in the marketplace. I am not attacking your friend, just making a point.
Looser than you like? IIRC, the FSM specs gives up to 2mm of play on the OE joint before it should be retired. So looser than you like is subjective to the actual condition of the joint. Now granted, I personally would not settle for any movement in the joint, but thats me.
I recently bought a Kahr CM9 for something lighter to carry over my XD9sc. Ive read many, MANY accounts of the Kahr weapons needing the 200 round break-in to be reliable. Many FTE, FTF especially using something less than a 124g bullet. Im almost to 300 through mine using TulAmmo 115g ball with not one issue.
Point? You may have gotten some of the dud "top of the line aftermarket" parts. That does not mean that the only option is factory parts because the ones you got have been trouble free.
duffbeer911
New member
thanks, this is great info ... just wondering if someone can give me a rough idea of the weight and dimensions of a boxed ball joint? I'm going to be bringing back a whole lot of toyota spares when I come back from UK so need to work out how much I can carry.
Cheers
Cheers
Full_Throttle
New member
its a 'yota for a reason
I will throw in my 2 cents and then crawl back under my rock(auto).
Toyota has a good reputation. hell a great one. It is great for a reason. The parts that you buy over the counter at Napa or Rock auto or where ever may or may not be Toyota OEM stuff. I can see maybe not replacing the radiator hose with an OEM one, but a LOWER BALL JOINT?? REALLY??? Have you seen pictures like THIS? Why would you try and save a few $$ on a part that most likely you will be replacing once every 10 years? I bet most of you spend more on your phone and TV bill in a MONTH that what you will save on going with cheaper LBJ that should last several YEARS.
Just because a part is stamped with a number, doesn't mean it is OEM. I for one will not compromise (quality vs cost) on the integrity of parts that directly affect the vehicle's ability to stay on the road. If you can PROVE to me that part "A" is made at the same factory to the same specs as an OEM part, then I will buy it. Not just guess or assume it because it "looks" the same, but prove it. This is just my opinion, if you disagree then you are wrong :thumb3:
Rant off:guitar2:
I will throw in my 2 cents and then crawl back under my rock(auto).
Toyota has a good reputation. hell a great one. It is great for a reason. The parts that you buy over the counter at Napa or Rock auto or where ever may or may not be Toyota OEM stuff. I can see maybe not replacing the radiator hose with an OEM one, but a LOWER BALL JOINT?? REALLY??? Have you seen pictures like THIS? Why would you try and save a few $$ on a part that most likely you will be replacing once every 10 years? I bet most of you spend more on your phone and TV bill in a MONTH that what you will save on going with cheaper LBJ that should last several YEARS.
Just because a part is stamped with a number, doesn't mean it is OEM. I for one will not compromise (quality vs cost) on the integrity of parts that directly affect the vehicle's ability to stay on the road. If you can PROVE to me that part "A" is made at the same factory to the same specs as an OEM part, then I will buy it. Not just guess or assume it because it "looks" the same, but prove it. This is just my opinion, if you disagree then you are wrong :thumb3:
Rant off:guitar2:
troopa4life
New member
Even if you aren't up to 150-200k miles, doesn't time seem to affect the BJs as well?? I am at 133k on my 2000 and I just ordered them simply because of the fact that it's been 12 years on the same LBJs. I ordered OEM since they are highly recommended from forum members.
fotorunner
New member
I will throw in my 2 cents and then crawl back under my rock(auto).
Toyota has a good reputation. hell a great one. It is great for a reason. The parts that you buy over the counter at Napa or Rock auto or where ever may or may not be Toyota OEM stuff. I can see maybe not replacing the radiator hose with an OEM one, but a LOWER BALL JOINT?? REALLY??? Have you seen pictures like THIS? Why would you try and save a few $$ on a part that most likely you will be replacing once every 10 years? I bet most of you spend more on your phone and TV bill in a MONTH that what you will save on going with cheaper LBJ that should last several YEARS.
Just because a part is stamped with a number, doesn't mean it is OEM. I for one will not compromise (quality vs cost) on the integrity of parts that directly affect the vehicle's ability to stay on the road. If you can PROVE to me that part "A" is made at the same factory to the same specs as an OEM part, then I will buy it. Not just guess or assume it because it "looks" the same, but prove it. This is just my opinion, if you disagree then you are wrong :thumb3:
Rant off:guitar2:
Exactly !!!! :bravo:
quicksilvr
New member
I just bought new OEM lbj's, and they are definitely better than the Napa premium's that were stamped "555 Made in Japan". For a part like the LBJ, go OEM.
