Whining/Aircraft Noise

Ohcrymore

New member
So my '03 4R started to make a whining/aircraft engine-like noise (not the roar, just the whine) coming from the front today. Primarily noticeable from 30-40mph and seemingly strictly speed related (RPM didn't affect the sound, neither did turning) with minor steering wheel vibration. It goes away completely around 15mph and tends to blend into the engine sound at highway speeds. Granted, I drove on dry clay mud trails this past weekend, but I didn't contact on anything and my undercarriage is still pretty clean.

Anyone have ideas as to what it could be?
 
Register to hide this ad
yep, as said that is very likely a wheel bearing.

pretty classic symptoms actually. "like a jet engine" is how I usually describe it to customers.
 
I've got the same noise, except i have no play in either wheel if i jack it up and check, could it still be a wheel bearing, or may diff or carrier?

help me out here [MENTION=84120]nevada[/MENTION]
 
I've got the same noise, except i have no play in either wheel if i jack it up and check, could it still be a wheel bearing, or may diff or carrier?

help me out here [MENTION=84120]nevada[/MENTION]
yes, the bearing can be bad, and still be tight. we just had one in the shop like that yesterday. no play, lots of noise.
 
I've got the same noise, except i have no play in either wheel if i jack it up and check, could it still be a wheel bearing, or may diff or carrier?

help me out here [MENTION=84120]nevada[/MENTION]

The wheel bearing can be bad without having play in the wheel. Jack the front end of your truck up and spin the wheel while holding the front shock with your other hand. You will be able to feel the grinding of the wheel bearing if it is bad. Test both sides and you will feel a definite difference if the bearing is bad in one of the wheels. If both feel the same and you can hear that grinding/aircraft hummm/M/T tire road noise you likely have a bad wheel bearing or two.
 
So my '03 4R started to make a whining/aircraft engine-like noise (not the roar, just the whine) coming from the front today. Primarily noticeable from 30-40mph and seemingly strictly speed related (RPM didn't affect the sound, neither did turning) with minor steering wheel vibration. It goes away completely around 15mph and tends to blend into the engine sound at highway speeds. Granted, I drove on dry clay mud trails this past weekend, but I didn't contact on anything and my undercarriage is still pretty clean.

Anyone have ideas as to what it could be?

Like these guys are saying, most likely a wheel bearing.

I had a worn bearing that was tight but very noisy when spinning it by hand.

Let me know if I can help :cool:
 
yes, the bearing can be bad, and still be tight. we just had one in the shop like that yesterday. no play, lots of noise.


The wheel bearing can be bad without having play in the wheel. Jack the front end of your truck up and spin the wheel while holding the front shock with your other hand. You will be able to feel the grinding of the wheel bearing if it is bad. Test both sides and you will feel a definite difference if the bearing is bad in one of the wheels. If both feel the same and you can hear that grinding/aircraft hummm/M/T tire road noise you likely have a bad wheel bearing or two.

awesome info guys, thank you very much. :cheers:
 
If you have trouble determining whether the bearing is bad, it becomes a lot more clear once you pull the caliper and brake disc off. Then you only have the hub spinning and comparing both side will tell you right away.

Yep, its more work but you'll feel the difference right away, if the other methods don't work well.

Also, NJ636 wells pre-assembled hubs/bearings, good price, if you can do the job yourself.
 
So I found the culprit. After jacking up the car, front passenger beating is dead. Also discovered that the shops in my area wanted close to $1000 for each wheel done. Spent $450 for the parts, tools (impact driver, etc) combined instead.
 
If you have trouble determining whether the bearing is bad, it becomes a lot more clear once you pull the caliper and brake disc off. Then you only have the hub spinning and comparing both side will tell you right away.



Yep, its more work but you'll feel the difference right away, if the other methods don't work well.



Also, NJ636 wells pre-assembled hubs/bearings, good price, if you can do the job yourself.


Thank you for the kind words. Hub assembly replacement is definitely an easy DIY job and you will save greatly with the preassembled piece.
 
So I found the culprit. After jacking up the car, front passenger beating is dead. Also discovered that the shops in my area wanted close to $1000 for each wheel done. Spent $450 for the parts, tools (impact driver, etc) combined instead.


Glad you were able to figure it out on your own and save money in the end :thumbsup:
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,085
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top