Who does their own oil change?
- Thread starter sant6236
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Cost entails more than just the dollars spent.
The dealer or quick change place is going to use the cheapest bulk oil they can find for that $29.95 special. The dealer will hopefully use the Toyota OEM filter, but I've had Honda dealer service dept. use non-OEM filters, so there's no guarantee.
Not that I think there's anything wrong with regular dino oil, but with careful shopping, full synthetic can be had for not much more. So, for a 3rd party's cost, I'm running full synthetic instead of dino. Heck, you don't even know if they're putting in the right grade every time.
The time I spend at the dealer waiting for them to change the oil plus the drive to/from yields no other value to me. At home, while the oil's draining, I can do something much more rewarding like spend time with my son. And since I don't care how many changes I can do an hour, I can let it drain thoroughly. If you read any of the threads, you'll find most of us need more oil than listed in the manual to refill with an oil/filter change. As an extreme example, I use about 3/4 of a quart more on my wife's CR-V than is spec'd in manual...that thing takes forever to drain down to a slow drip; close to an hour the last change I did.
I had another car where the Samsonite gorilla service dude put the drain plug back in so tight that I broke my socket wrench mechanism trying to remove it on my next DIY service. I know I use a new crush washer on the drain plug every time...did the high school kid working for minimum wage?
I had a Honda Civic once that had an error in the manual, calling for more oil than needed, although there was a correct spec right on the oil fill cap itself. One service place I frequented, managed to overfill by a quart on several different changes until they wrote it down somewhere after I kept coming back to have them drain and fill the correct amount. Clearly they weren't checking the level after doing the fill..
Doing it without ramps or jack/stands will depend on your girth and flexibility. On my V8 4x4, one needs to drop the front skid plate to get to the filter. As a 40 yo in decent shape (5'10",185#), I could change if without ramps if I *had* to. However, even on ramps, I prefer to remove/install the skid while laying on the concrete instead of using the creeper...that couple of inches is so much more comfortable.
As you can tell, from time to time, for various reasons I've used dealers and other shops for my routine maintenance. Eventually, something happens that reinforces the old proverb, "if you want something done right, you have to do it yourself".
-Brent
The dealer or quick change place is going to use the cheapest bulk oil they can find for that $29.95 special. The dealer will hopefully use the Toyota OEM filter, but I've had Honda dealer service dept. use non-OEM filters, so there's no guarantee.
Not that I think there's anything wrong with regular dino oil, but with careful shopping, full synthetic can be had for not much more. So, for a 3rd party's cost, I'm running full synthetic instead of dino. Heck, you don't even know if they're putting in the right grade every time.
The time I spend at the dealer waiting for them to change the oil plus the drive to/from yields no other value to me. At home, while the oil's draining, I can do something much more rewarding like spend time with my son. And since I don't care how many changes I can do an hour, I can let it drain thoroughly. If you read any of the threads, you'll find most of us need more oil than listed in the manual to refill with an oil/filter change. As an extreme example, I use about 3/4 of a quart more on my wife's CR-V than is spec'd in manual...that thing takes forever to drain down to a slow drip; close to an hour the last change I did.
I had another car where the Samsonite gorilla service dude put the drain plug back in so tight that I broke my socket wrench mechanism trying to remove it on my next DIY service. I know I use a new crush washer on the drain plug every time...did the high school kid working for minimum wage?
I had a Honda Civic once that had an error in the manual, calling for more oil than needed, although there was a correct spec right on the oil fill cap itself. One service place I frequented, managed to overfill by a quart on several different changes until they wrote it down somewhere after I kept coming back to have them drain and fill the correct amount. Clearly they weren't checking the level after doing the fill..
Doing it without ramps or jack/stands will depend on your girth and flexibility. On my V8 4x4, one needs to drop the front skid plate to get to the filter. As a 40 yo in decent shape (5'10",185#), I could change if without ramps if I *had* to. However, even on ramps, I prefer to remove/install the skid while laying on the concrete instead of using the creeper...that couple of inches is so much more comfortable.
As you can tell, from time to time, for various reasons I've used dealers and other shops for my routine maintenance. Eventually, something happens that reinforces the old proverb, "if you want something done right, you have to do it yourself".
-Brent
Last edited:
074.0Runner
New member
This is the way I look at it:
Mobil 1 Synthetic and K&N filter @$50 Vs. Pennzoil conventional and Pennzoil filter @$45.
Mobil 1 Synthetic and K&N filter @$50 Vs. Pennzoil conventional and Pennzoil filter @$45.
Mine is the v6 and filter is on top easy to get at just raise the plastic hinged cover after removing two small bolts, put a small tin can under the small filter drain to catch a small amount oil when filter is removed.
There is a plastic cover in the metal pan protecting skid plate under the pan the drain plug is right above it. Just pop it off using a thin screwdriver blade.
Don't mistake the transmission drain plug that is not covered to the rear of engine, Many have done this and it's a costly mistake
It make the draining a lot simpler if you do jack up the frame on both side near front and set two jack stand for safety.
Good luck it's a quick job.
There is a plastic cover in the metal pan protecting skid plate under the pan the drain plug is right above it. Just pop it off using a thin screwdriver blade.
Don't mistake the transmission drain plug that is not covered to the rear of engine, Many have done this and it's a costly mistake
It make the draining a lot simpler if you do jack up the frame on both side near front and set two jack stand for safety.
Good luck it's a quick job.
geenowalker
New member
Not sure where you guys are getting your numbers from.
Mobile 1 synth 5 quart jug $25.99 - Walmart....tonight as a matter fo fact.
Toyota OEM filter 10.77 (including tax).
So I am roughly $37 for change with synth.
Toyota wants $42.99 for synth, and 28.99 for regular (which doesnt matter beacuse I would only put synth in). I think it is certainly cost effective to change it myself. Takes me about 20 min to pull the full change and longer to get to center of town and back and have someone else do it.
I jack up the passenger side, and pull the plug....drain and lower the truck to get it all out (completely unnecessary, but WTF).
Jack up and reattach the plug with the washer that comes with the toyota filter. New oil and its over. 20 min including cleanup.
Do it as a full looking over (washer fluid, air cleaner check, wipe down of the engine bay, battery cable check, brake fluid, collant, etc).
Mobile 1 synth 5 quart jug $25.99 - Walmart....tonight as a matter fo fact.
Toyota OEM filter 10.77 (including tax).
So I am roughly $37 for change with synth.
Toyota wants $42.99 for synth, and 28.99 for regular (which doesnt matter beacuse I would only put synth in). I think it is certainly cost effective to change it myself. Takes me about 20 min to pull the full change and longer to get to center of town and back and have someone else do it.
I jack up the passenger side, and pull the plug....drain and lower the truck to get it all out (completely unnecessary, but WTF).
Jack up and reattach the plug with the washer that comes with the toyota filter. New oil and its over. 20 min including cleanup.
Do it as a full looking over (washer fluid, air cleaner check, wipe down of the engine bay, battery cable check, brake fluid, collant, etc).
climb.on
New member
I was seriously considering installing the Amsoil remote dual filter setup to make it easier. It's kind of pricey though. I decided against it more because I need to take the skid plate off anyway to lube the front driveshaft. I can just about guarantee that the quicklube joint won't be going through all that. If you use synthetic you don't have to change it as often either.
In addition to many of the things already mentioned, I say to it yourself.
In addition to many of the things already mentioned, I say to it yourself.
RunnerUp
New member
i change the oil in both my trucks, mobil 1 all the way, OEM filters, new washer EVERYTIME... i even put half a quart of fresh oil through the motors and let it drain out just to get that last little bit of gunk at the bottom, and i STILL come out better than having ANYWHERE else do my syn oil changes, and i know its done right... Toyota changed the oil ONCE on my 07, and what do you know but they lost one of the skid plate bolts. that was the free oil change you get when you buy it, since then ive done it myself and have managed to keep all the skid plate bolts on...
sant6236
New member
Thanks folks, but I have questions:
So where do you get this washer you are referring to and does one have to replace this each time the oil is changed?
One of the big things for me when someone changes the oil is that they also grease the vehilcle. Do you guys do that yourselves too?
At what point during the change is the oil filter replaced?
So where do you get this washer you are referring to and does one have to replace this each time the oil is changed?
One of the big things for me when someone changes the oil is that they also grease the vehilcle. Do you guys do that yourselves too?
At what point during the change is the oil filter replaced?
RunnerUp
New member
sant6236 said:
get it at toyota when you pick up your OEM filter, just ask for the washer and they will give you one (sometimes they charge for it) i dont think you HAVE to replace it everytime, but its a good idea. and unless you are paying a lil more then i highly doubt that they grease your truck, it takes me prob about an hour to grease my driveshafts, and i do it every 15-20k.
the oil filter is replaced AFTER you drain the oil out, and before you put the drain plug back in.
nated05
New member
Barefoot said:
Here my calculations:
$4.25 filter and washer from dealer w/coupon
$26.00 5 qt Mobil 1 syn. at Walmart
$5.99 1 additional qt Mobil 1 Syn (V6 takes 5.5 qts)
About $34.00 per change im pretty sure the dealer is well over $40 for synthetic. Plus I can do it myself in under 20min, the dealer usually takes an hour.
peter78
Super Moderator
Right now, my changes have been $28. I got a bunch of Mobil 1 from Costco at $3.60 and I buy filters in bulk. I also include the cost of one washer for the drain plug. But, it takes me longer than 20 minutes. By the time, I get out the ramps, check under the engine for anything unusuall, W-D 40 the rubber parts, drain the dirty oil in a container, put in any fluids that are low, usually the window wiper fluid, throw away the trash, which includes a few paper towels, put up the tools and ramps, write in my book, it is more like 30 minutes maybe even more, I guess I could never do it professionally since I would go broke.nated05 said:
KB084RUNNER
New member
My dealer charges $5.49 for an oil filter and I buy Pennzoil Platinum oil on sale for about $2.80/quart when the have BOGO sales. So I am getting a synthetic oil change for about $23 and know it's done correctly. This is my first 4Runner and an infant could change the oil on it compared to other vehicles I have owned.
I am curious about greasing the driveshafts how often and where are the fittings located? Mine is a 2008 4WD Limited.
I am curious about greasing the driveshafts how often and where are the fittings located? Mine is a 2008 4WD Limited.
peter78
Super Moderator
I have actually thought of not changing my oil, I am getting near retirement and sometimes it is cold or I just don't feel like getting dirty. A few months ago a friend told me about his father in law who is 91 and walked to the bank, a few miles away, to do some transactions. We he got home, the wife said why did you not take a taxi, he said "taxis cost money". I figured if he could do it at 91, I really have no excuse not to continue to change my own oil.franco said:
One more point, did you know that the nuts on the oil pan loosen up at around 100,000 miles, you should W-D 40 the rubber boots on a front wheel drive vechicle, also check the boots to see if there is a rip? Your right the guys can change the oil quick and cheap, but that is really all they do and sometimes you hear about them not changing the oil filter and charging you.
So, I might let someone change my oil, that is when I am 92.
