Who has done a diesel conversion?

ok, so what are you opinions about going with a cummins 4bt engine?

Arent the 4BT's like 745-780 lbs? Thats my only problem with the 4bt is just too heavy to install without beefing up the suspension a pretty good deal.

I think id rather have a beefed up 1kzte than have completely redo my suspension to cope with the weight. Im sure you can find a JDM importer that can get a 1kzte for a fair price.

I have long thought about talking to the importer i used to get all my buddies j-spec honda motor swaps from to see what he could find.
 
I can import you a propane fuel injection system that will work seamlessly with the existing Gasoline system. $700. You can have cheap miles per gallon and the switchabilty to use what ever fuel you can get a hold of.

Diesel engines would be great if there was an abundant supply here but getting replacement parts and what not for a JDM or Mexican market transplant would be a logistical nightmare.

For what is worth, I have driven boosted and re-flashed diesel Yotas overseas and they are absolutely amazing in shear power but when they blow up, parts are cheap, labor is cheap and diesel is cheap cause MPG's go out the door when you make them hot.
 
What about areas that require emissions and such since I don't think the deisel will pass any of that and some states won't even register the vehicle for on-road use with an engine swap of an engine that didn't come in it originally. Just some food for thought.

I don't see the plus with deisel in a 4Runner considering the cost you put into the swap since even with better MPGs it still will take a while to break even.
 
A couple of thoughts:

-4bt is very heavy, and VERY tall. Guys that swap these into 60 series LC's need a 4" lift to clear the oil pan, I imagine it would be worse on the smaller, more complicated 4R's, something to consider. They are great motors, but very noisy, plan on adding some sound deadening to the firewall or it could get annoying.
-if you're doing a swap, odds are you would do a downpipe and exhaust at the same time, so the published numbers for the 1kz-te would be lower than what you'd get, and better economy to boot. An intercooler would make both power and economy even better again, and would be easy enough to add at the same time.
-You'll never recoup the cost of a swap in fuel economy alone, so if that's your only goal, then forget about it. The 1kz-te makes me smile everytime I drive my truck, there are definite benefits and I would recommend it to anyone, but don't expect to ever save money going this route. Diesel clatter, turbo whooosh, it's all good stuff!
 
The D4-D is becomming more and more available at junkyards in Brazil, so people are starting to give it a try in transplants/adaptations.

Here are some of those transplants, on the Brazilian 4x4 forum:

Grand Cherokee:
CHEROTA - Limited c/ meca Hilux 3.0 D-4D Auto

Wrangler:
Adaptando Motor Toyota da Hilux 3.0/2009 no Wrangler TJ 1998


Good to know - our resident Toyota nut Gherra decided on the D4-D after a whole lotta research so I figured it's gotta be a pretty stout platform.

Plus, it's a compact package that seems to fit into the 2nd Gen Taco / 3rd Gen 4Runner engine bay without too much hassle.
 
Why Don't You Try Out My Diesel?

All this discussion is making me laugh. I have a 1995 Toyota Turbo Diesel (2.8 liter) in my 1993 4Runner 4 x 4. I'm the original owner of the truck since it was new and the diesel swap was done by an excellent custom shop several years ago. It is a left hand drive, so I don't have any of the RHD issues. I feel I can speak about it with authority, including the biodiesel comments. Overall, 1993 4Runners were not known for great torque. The diesel changed everything. True, it sounds a little different than stock, but the Toyota diesel is very quiet compared to Cummins, Fords, Chevy etc. About the only one quieter is the Mercedes. Biodiesel is not corrosive to metal, only to certain pliable materials. To counter act that, fuel hoses and the like were replaced with Viton material. I've used biodiesel at times but never SVO. I would strongly recommend you drive mine and see how you like it. It looks completely stock and blows people away when they see the engine compartment. It is smooth, quiet and pulls quite nicely. The auto transmission has a selector switch for towing. I drive this vehicle every day. I've got a class three hitch, TJM bumper, turbo boost gauge, 4 point harness and head rest for the middle passenger in the rear seat and suspension improvements over stock, but that's about it. The interior is stock and about the only thing a sharp person will notice is a factory idle up switch and a little "diesel fuel only" sticker under the speedometer. Speedometer has miles per hour, just like stock. Fun to drive and always makes me smile.
 
My motor

Hi, this is a kzn130, so the model code is y-kzn130w-gkpqt. It is stock with the factory turbo. It came from a 1995 HiLux Surf. How's it going in the Great White North? What's the deal with adding photos? I seem to be having trouble so perhaps file size is the issue.

One more thing, how come some obscure add keeps popping up on my posts? I don't really want those there.
 
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Photos

motor.jpg

4Runner.jpg

interior.jpg

Here you go. Look familiar? I was fortunate to go to Japan a while ago and was able to drive around the country side. Everywhere I went, I saw vehicles like yours with the side view mirrors mounted up front.
 

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Scott

Ok, so i think I am going to start gathering parts for a 1KZ-TE turbo diesel conversion. Are there any members here that have done this swap? My main objective is for the better torque since I do tow with my rig a decent amount, also the slightly improved gas mileage. Anyone have any input on this swap?

Scotty T, Check out what I've got listed for sale and then if you have questions, let me know.
 
ok, so what are you opinions about going with a cummins 4bt engine?

They weight 800+ lbs (nearly twice the stock V6), and are EXTREMELY LOUD.

You'll also need a new transmission and a way to connect it to the transfer case. All new wiring as well.


A 4BT is an honest to god tractor motor and the whole truck will shake and vibrate. Youtube some videos.

I know the 1KZ-TE is getting some hate in here, but a 1KZ-TE is really the simplest and most cost effective swap if you can get a half-cut.
 
Biodiesel is something that I never learned anything about, or care too. My neighbor (who is a big diesel freak) is doing the biodiesel route. I am just repeating what he has experienced. Steel lines and tanks is what he said.

Well yeah; so you just replace the lines with non-rubber lines. Not 'easy' but it's not that tough either.

97 cents verses 1.30 for propane. I don't know if the 33 cents is worth all the aggravation of cooking, stripping and cleaning bio diesel. Plus, getting rid of all the byproducts - waste.
That's just it; it's NOT that hard. I will admit that it is a lot easier if you purchase a ready-made kit, which can be anywhere from $800 to $3000 (which contains all the piping and hoses, a large and small 'reactor' (tank) for mixing, and instructions.

But even if you build your own, it's not that hard to do. My father and I used to have a biodiesel "reactor" and made the stuff for about a year or so. Here's the basic process:


  • Put the oil in the larger 'reactor' (is what they call it) and water wash it (spray it with water and let it mix) for about 15 minutes, then let it settle, and drain the water. That gets rid of a lot of impurities right there. (Our reactor was 40 gallons.)
  • Take a small sample of the oil, and add what's called the titration mixture to it from a graduated cylinder, or pipette. Note how much you add to get the whole mixture to turn a certain color.
  • Match the certain color to the color on the titration chart, and that will tell you specifically how many grams of lye you will need to add to the 8 gallons of methanol to make sodium methoxide in the smaller 'reactor.' (NOTE: This is the step that everyone is worried about, because lye is very caustic and sodium methoxide is even more so. You just need to wear goggles, gloves, a smock and probably a 'doctor's' facemask.) This then gets mixed for a while - about an hour or so.
  • Once the sodium methoxide is mixed, you allow THAT to be mixed with the vegetable oil. It takes a while; like 8 or so hours. During that time, you go do whatever you want. LOL
  • At the end of that time period, after allowing for separation, you'll drain off the biodiesel until you get to the byproduct. After that, depending upon where you got your oil (which determines how pure the stuff was), you'll probably do anywhere from 1 to 3 'water washing' cycles to get rid of more impurities.

And that's about it. Yes, it's vastly oversimplified, but in all honesty, for every 40 gallons of biodiesel my father and I made, it took us probably about an HOUR of actual work, and most of THAT was standing around:

- ~15 minutes waiting for the water washing of the veggie oil to complete.
- probably another 15 minutes or so to take the sample of oil, add the titration mixture to it, and add the lye to the 8 gallons of methanol.
- the other 30 minutes is usually spent on the 'water washing' cycles

The ingredients are vegetable oil, methanol, and lye. (Which is the other 'tough' part - in many states, it's a bit of a chore to get initially registered to get lye. BTW, I would NOT recommend you buy a large quantity of lye without ensuring the local cops know what purpose you're buying it for. :biggrin2: I know this from experience. LOL)

When you're done, you're left with biodiesel and the byproduct, which is glycerin. If you've eaten ANYTHING from the store, EVER, you've eaten it (glycerol). You can give that to your pigs, give it to farmers, use it to fertilize your garden, etc. There's a bunch of stuff you can do with it. It's not hard at all to get rid of if you live in the country. :)
 
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They weight 800+ lbs (nearly twice the stock V6), and are EXTREMELY LOUD.

You'll also need a new transmission and a way to connect it to the transfer case. All new wiring as well.


A 4BT is an honest to god tractor motor and the whole truck will shake and vibrate. Youtube some videos.

I know the 1KZ-TE is getting some hate in here, but a 1KZ-TE is really the simplest and most cost effective swap if you can get a half-cut.

Basically I am trying to find a good turbo diesel that will:
1 - fit our bay
2 - good options to keep chasis automatic
3 - will provide some good extra power for towing
4 - not involve buying a halfcut for $3k+
 
Basically I am trying to find a good turbo diesel that will:
4 - not involve buying a halfcut for $3k+

Any diesel with electronic injection it's a real good idea to start with a halfcut so you aren't trying to track odds and ends down midway through your swap.

The 4BT is very heavy, and very tall, so a serious front suspension workover will be required, and then the rear made to match. Guys putting 4BT's in 60 series landcruisers require a 4" suspension lift for the oilpan to clear, and that's a bigger chassis than our trucks, so there would be challenges there for sure.

At the end of the day, the 4BT is damn near a tractor engine, it's loud, rough, and low-tech. It might be exactly what you're looking for, or it might not.
 
I had a swap done in my 3rd gen.

No way will it ever pay for itself, but I have absolutely no regrets and love this truck. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

I run straight Biodiesel 90% of the time.
 
Alright, i just dont feel that the 3.0TD is the proper motor for your swap, find a 4bt cummins, or a VW 1.9tdi, or an isuzu 4 banger diesel, the toyota diesel really isnt that great a motor.

Sorry buddy but this comment is obviously made in ignorance... The 3.0L 1KZ-TE is simply one of the best diesel engines ever made in terms of reliability. I am possibly biased by now, but the hours of research that I did prior to purchasing my machine lead me to that conclusion.

If pulling power and torque are your goal I would recommend getting and inter-cooled model. Or there is always water-alcohol/propane injection that could be added after the fact.

In terms of buying parts the best place I have found is:

Toyota Hilux Surf KZN185 Hilux Surf Parts

The prices are very reasonable and shipping takes less than 48 hours from pick up in the UK to your door in North America.

A company that might be able to help with the import process/engine procurement is:

Brave Auto International - Exporter of Japanese JDM & European Vehicles Direct From Japan.

They do all kinds of JDM imports to North America including half cuts, but if that is not what you are in to then I'm sure they could just send an engine...
(I would strongly recommend a half cut)

Possible useful links:

Hilux Surf Forum - Powered by vBulletin

ToyotaSurf Australia Site

I believe there are some threads in those forums where people have done the swap. It's at least a good place to start and a good reference tool for trouble shooting the 1KZ-TE.

Anyways... I am surprised by all the negativity surrounding the idea of doing this swap. A guy posts a thread asking for ideas/help and more than half the comments slam the original idea. IMHO the swap would be a lot of fun because lets face it, not everything we do is because of "cost effectiveness", and some people would really like the idea of being more self reliant with their fuel source.

Simply put, I am in the same boat as everyone else here who has a diesel... it puts a smile on my face every time I turn the key over. :biggrin2:
 
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Sorry buddy but this comment is obviously made in ignorance... The 3.0L 1KZ-TE is simply one of the best diesel engines ever made in terms of reliability. I am possibly biased by now, but the hours of research that I did prior to purchasing my machine lead me to that conclusion.

I have to agree with this. Not only is it a great engine, but if you are doing a swap, using it makes it so much easier since it was *made* for this vehicle! motor mounts line up, existing wiring harness available...you can make it look absolutely stock.

Here is mine:
P1000965.jpg
~original[/IMG]
 

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