Who has/used unichip on their 4runner?

034runnersport

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Who has or have used a unichip on their 4runner and what are you thoughts or opinions about? Im thinkin bout gettin one for mine. But im curious if anyone has noticed an increase in power or is it jus a waste of money?
 
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Hopefully nobody because it's pretty much just a waste of money :)

Plenty of Tundra guys w/ the same V8 say other wise with dyno sheets to prove it. Obviously you can't just throw it on and expect gains, you need supporting mods IE: intake, exhaust, headers etc.
 
Plenty of Tundra guys w/ the same V8 say other wise with dyno sheets to prove it. Obviously you can't just throw it on and expect gains, you need supporting mods IE: intake, exhaust, headers etc.

Well I have a k&n intake on it now and I jus dropped it off to get exhaust work done. I was jus curious if anyone has had any personal experience with them or knows anyone who has.
 
The way these chips work is by changing the look-up table values that the ECU reads. For increased performance they add more fuel...but only at the higher RPMs. These chips have only been shown to giver marginal performance increases at the higher RPM range. The major disadvantage to these is worse MPG.
 
Adding more fuel doesn't increase performance. Wouldn't it be less fuel/more air to lean out the engine to make more power? But I agree that with a generic interface/tune, it's not ideal.
OP, if you decide to go that route, report back and let us know how it goes. I was hoping BullyDog would release something for the 03-09 V8 Runner. I know Tundra and Titan owners have seen some decent gains for a handheld unit.
 
had one, got it on sale, my advise is dont waste ur $!. i used it in an attempt to regain some low end after my borla catback & volant cai, which it seemed to do but it needs to be programmed for your exact mods & if you vary from them, (like change to different air filter) the vec. runs like crap, & supposedly may ruin the unit. also, couldnt tell for sure but seems to me like it didnt want to play nice all the time with some of the other electronic's.
 
I have no personal experience but recently bought some parts from a guy with a truck like mine (V8) and he was running a chip and raved about the increase in power and mpgs w/o any other mods like exhaust and intake mentioned in other posts. He did say it took a while for the ECU to adjust to it but after that it was great. After talking with him I was tempted to give one a try.
 
I'm really looking for some ways to get more power out of it without spending a bunch money. I'm mainly looking for more low end power. Once it gets to bout 3000rpms it really opens up. Adding more fuel does give you more power also when you add fuel you need to have more air coming in to equal it out but too much air and not fuel enough could run your engine too lean then cause a lot of problems you don't want to have. Does bullydog have a handheld that works better than the unichip? According to unichip you should have gains up to 35hp, but I'm assuming that's with headers, cai, and catback exhaust.
 
Any solid numbers on what this "UniChip" gives out? I don't quite care about HP as much as Torque and where it shows up. I doubt it increases power and MPGs, more likely the MPGs are lower with a mild increase in power.
 
Any solid numbers on what this "UniChip" gives out? I don't quite care about HP as much as Torque and where it shows up. I doubt it increases power and MPGs, more likely the MPGs are lower with a mild increase in power.

Read some 1st gen Tundra threads.



For anyone buying a Unichip this was posted yesterday over at Tundrasolutions.com. If anyone is a member over there contact James below, he knows his stuff when it comes to modding / supercharging our engines.

When using a Unichip and any other piggyback:
  • You're just manipulating the ECU voltage signals by pulling/adding voltage making the Air/Fuel ratios Leaner or Richer.
  • For changing the ignition you're again inputing signals into the igniton system to get more or less timing.
  • "handirifle" : Based on your modifications you're after I highly suggest getting a Unichip, and getting it tuned ! ! !
  • Find a local tuner and have this tuner properly set the Air/Fuel ratios. Get Multiple Maps Done.
Be sure to get a Unichip 5 map switch so you have the tuner make multiple maps:
  • Power tunes for 87, 89 and/or 92 octane. Obviously leave the tank near empty.
  • Bring 5 gallon gas cans of each grades and use accordingly.
  • Make a "Tow Tune" where the tuner Brake Loads the dyno drum to simulate Incline and weight of what you plan on towing.
  • You would then use the Snow Performance with the Tow tune here.
  • You can then set up an Economy tune for when not towing.

Air/Fuel Ratios: Examples for Naturally Aspirated Engines: Reading taken before the catlytic converters: Collector/Down-Pipe
  • 14.0:1 light duty throttle, 13.8:1-13.4:1 mid duty, 13.2:1 WOT <<< (Wide Open Throttle)
  • 13.8:1 light duty throttle, 13.5:1-13.2:1 mid duty, 13.0:1 WOT
  • 13.6:1 light duty throttle, 13.2:1-13.0:1 mid duty, 12.8:1 WOT
  • 13.4:1 light duty throttle, 13.0:1-12.9:1 mid duty, 12.7:1 WOT
  • 13.4:1 light duty throttle, 13.2:1-12.8:1 mid duty, 12.5:1 WOT >> lighter duty towing
  • 13.2:1 light duty throttle, 12.8:1-12.6:1 mid duty, 12.3:1 WOT >> light duty towing
  • 13.0:1 light duty throttle, 12.8:1-12.6:1 mid duty, 12.2:1 WOT >> heavy duty towing.
You NEED to ask the tuner the overall difference with their Dyno's O2 wideband installed at these two locations on a vehicle:
Over the years I have seen the difference firsthand at the collector/downpipe before the catalytic converters on a DynoJet/the O2 wideband they tune with.
Then what the reading is at the tail-pipe. There is a .5:1-.8:1 difference leaner reading at the tail-pipe than what it really is coming out of the cylinders.
WOT Air/Fuel ratios will be in the 12.5:1-12.7:1 (When measured upstream of the catalytic converters)...when you're setting the truck up for 13.0-13.2:1 at the tailpipe.
The sensor is less accurate at the tail-pipe. The sensor is picking up outside air. Remember This when tuning.
BE SURE TO ASK this when calling dyno shops and thy're tuning your Air/Fuel ratios.
I strongly suggest getting the Bung/O2 wideband used/put on the Collector of a set of longtube headers.
You can then test the results & see the difference for yourself.

The tuner can experiment all day long with Air/Fuel ratios but soon enough it becomes apparent on the dyno charts how the engine responds to the changes when you're watching the power increase or power drops, the timing advancing or timing retarding while watching the OBDII scanner/reader.
Remember: Setting Air/Fuel Ratios first: This is priority #1 ...then adjust the igntion timing.

Make many Maps on the dyno.
  • Have the Dyno tuner Save the Unichip maps to an SD Card or USB drive.
  • Take them home with you.
  • You paid to have them made.
  • Then distribute the Unichip maps to Tundrasolutions ! ! !
  • Get dyno charts/graphs for each map/setting/octane rating.. Again you're paying for the dyno session.
Hopefully YOU can be the one to help Tundrasolutions': Naturally Aspirated Engine Members.
Help them gain more HP/TQ , getting better gas mileage at the same time too.
 
Good info, RCs'!

Interesting though....When I look on Unichip's website, they don't offer a chip for the 2006 4Runner 4.7L engine. Only 4.0L.
 
So basically its not a drop-in solution, it needs a professional to tweak & map it; that actually gives it more legitimacy in my eyes vs. a "one size fits all" chip.

There's probably some difference in mapping between the Tundra and 4Runner.
 
Good info, RCs'!

Interesting though....When I look on Unichip's website, they don't offer a chip for the 2006 4Runner 4.7L engine. Only 4.0L.

They do make a chip for the 4.7L, also I have called unichip several times to get some info about it. I was told with just cai and catback and should be able to see a 25hp and 25tq increase. But I asked about getting the unichip "retuned or fine tuned" he told me. I would go backwards not forwards, so in other words its best to leave it how they have it programmed. But I say that's bullshit.
 
I was considering giving them a try, but their preliminary responses to questions sent me RUNNING!

It seems to me their maps may allow your vehicle to run, but I have very significant doubts as to how much benefit they will be...

UNLESS....

You get the tuner software and go to a professional tuning garage, at which point you could get a MAPECU3, CON-EMS (when released for our 4.7's), etc for the money.

To be clear, I got a really bad taste when looking at their Plug-n-Play system. Make sure you ask what the configuration was of the vehicle they used to make the map.

Ultimately it is up to you, just proceed with an extra dose of caution and make sure you ask the right questions.

BTW, I am in a similar boat as you. I want better performance, mostly for towing heavy, but not drop a bunch of cheddar on a ton of mods.

I didn't claim I don't *want* a ton of mods, just not drop the $$ on them! After all, I am on T4R...at 01am :D
 
I work in with the feds that test emissions on all combustion motors. I asked that specific question from a fellow who tests and verifies the manufacturers claims. They "also" try to improve the emissions from these motors and in so doing correspond "often" with the specialists at some of the tech shops in the city who perform these mods.

The simplke answer is; You can buy a chip BUT for it to work properly it must be installed and programed/tunned properly by a shop at a cost. There are also only specific chips that are worth it and for only specific vehicles that are worth doing this to.... not all vehicles are worth "chipping".
 

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