Who runs with snow tires?

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Yep, we get a bit of winter up here. I have a set of Nokian Hakkapeliitta SUV (265/65R17) with steel studs mounted on steel rims that I put on in mid October and take them off around Easter. The first time I tried to stop on snow/ice with the stock Michelins was a treat I'd rather not experience again. With the studded Nokians, my braking distance is far superior as is the handling on the frozen streets. Now I have to check to see how close the jockey behind me is running because I know he can't stop as quick as I can.

It's nice having them mounted on separate rims but it does cause the tire pressure warning lamp to be on for 6 months. After I swap back to the stock rims I sometimes have to get the hose and scrubber out to clean off the sensors to get the warning lamp to go off again...or just wait until it rains and play in the puddles.
 
telvarin said:

It's nice having them mounted on separate rims but it does cause the tire pressure warning lamp to be on for 6 months. After I swap back to the stock rims I sometimes have to get the hose and scrubber out to clean off the sensors to get the warning lamp to go off again...or just wait until it rains and play in the puddles.


what do you mean by this?



I will be installing michelin latitude x-ice 265-70-17 on my original factory 7spoke alloys, sans sensors. Although studs are superior, I cannot live with the extra noise they produce. The special traction snows like Blizzaks or x-ice do well through New England winters, especially the heavy wet snow we experience.
 
telvarin said:
Yep, we get a bit of winter up here. I have a set of Nokian Hakkapeliitta SUV (265/65R17) with steel studs mounted on steel rims that I put on in mid October and take them off around Easter. The first time I tried to stop on snow/ice with the stock Michelins was a treat I'd rather not experience again. With the studded Nokians, my braking distance is far superior as is the handling on the frozen streets. Now I have to check to see how close the jockey behind me is running because I know he can't stop as quick as I can.

It's nice having them mounted on separate rims but it does cause the tire pressure warning lamp to be on for 6 months. After I swap back to the stock rims I sometimes have to get the hose and scrubber out to clean off the sensors to get the warning lamp to go off again...or just wait until it rains and play in the puddles.


LoL ........ The winter braking reminds me of when my sister had her Jeep Liberty with a sport pkg and the "slick" Badyear sports car tires it came with. I told her "Sis.... trust my you must change them in the winter it or it just won't stop" She found out the hard way when a 30 minute drive took her 3 hours to get home. The next day we picked her out some snows.

I run a good A/T tire but there is no match for a good set of snows for the white stuff. :)
 
Like Telvarin, I run Nokian Hakkapeliitta's. I do not have studs as they are illegal where I live (MN). After 1 week into my first Minnesota winter, I knew the stock Duncraps were not going to cut it. Hakkapeliitas are designed and made in Finland. They were originally designed for ice racing on frozen lakes. I can't say enough about how much these tires rock in winter and rain.
 
rook said:
what do you mean by this?



I will be installing michelin latitude x-ice 265-70-17 on my original factory 7spoke alloys, sans sensors. Although studs are superior, I cannot live with the extra noise they produce. The special traction snows like Blizzaks or x-ice do well through New England winters, especially the heavy wet snow we experience.

rook,
The original factory rims I have came with internal sensors that send a signal to the computer. If the air pressure drops below a certain amount in any tire, the warning lamp is lit. I don't recall what the particulars are regarding in the minimum tire pressure required to send the low pressure signal. The winter tires are mounted on a separate set of after-market steel rims (that don't have these fancy shmancy sensors). This allows me to keep the factory originals in better shape by not driving them through the salt and crap in winter and makes it really easy to put on the winter boots (takes me about an hour to do all four if I dawdle). When I put the "summer" tires back on, the low tire pressure lamp sometimes stays on for a week or so. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset it, but no luck. I was going to pull the wheels off on the weekend and clean the sensors but it rained before then and all of a sudden the tire pressure warning light went out. I "assumed" the low pressure tire sensor was dirty and the rain splashed up and cleaned them off. Oh yeah, first thing I checked was tire pressure all around (including the spare, just in case...).

I hope I hit the answer to your question somewhere in there.
 
Just run a good set of AT's that are snow rated and you'll be fine all year long. With the tire technology & compounds out there now and tread pattern's the way the are there is no need for snow tires unless you run total street tires in summer , and even some of those are not that bad if you get an all season tire.

I would hate messing around and swapping tires out every winter and spring. Been there done that when I was a young'n. The studded tires I can see you would have to do that.

Studded ..... sweet but illegal here in Wi.
 
telvarin said:
I was going to pull the wheels off on the weekend and clean the sensors but it rained before then and all of a sudden the tire pressure warning light went out. I "assumed" the low pressure tire sensor was dirty and the rain splashed up and cleaned them off. Oh yeah, first thing I checked was tire pressure all around (including the spare, just in case...).

I hope I hit the answer to your question somewhere in there.

LOL. I was thinking you were going to break the tires down to clean the sensors. The only part of the sensor exposed to the outside is the stem. I've read posts from owners running winter tires without sensors whose tpms light rarely comes on. This is due to the fact that the other set is stored in proximity of the tpms computer and it still reads the signal. Unless the truck is away for an extended (not sure of the exact amount) period of time, like on a long road trip, the light remains off.


You made an interesting comment about worrying about the driver behind you who cannot stop as quickly as you. I always looked at the flip side, which we can smile about. The ability to pull away from a traffic light while they are spinning away, wrestling with the steering wheel. Meanwhile we drive away, knowing we are in one of the best trucks made:biggrin2:
 
I have a set of Revo's mounted on a separate set of wheels for winter use. I, IMHO, don't see the sense in 'wasting' the Revo's during the summer months. I don't do enough off-road use in the summer to warrant them. I do just fine with the OEM H/Ts in the summer, and it's not that big a deal to swap the wheels twice a year. You should be rotating your tires anyway, so I do it each time I make the season swap. It also gives me a chance to check on brake condition and other suspension components while I'm at it.
 
I use a set of Blizzaks mounted on Tundra steel wheels in the winter.
Last winter, I kept on going when some other 4WD SUV's were stuck.
Especially love the 4Runner w/Blizzaks when my driveway is plowed shut which does not stop me.

My winter wheels do not have the sensors. The dash light does not come on during my commute to work due to the short distance.
It also helps that I store my summer wheels & tires (with the sensors) within range of the 4Runner so they "reset" the 4Runner each night.
 
My scenario is identical to Charlier (Bridgstone winter duelers on toyota steel rims). I install usually in December and remove in March. In BC, we can use studs, but I prefer the 'studless' options, such as the winter duelers). I also have rubber valves in the steelies, and having the flashing TPMS light after an extended highway trip, but once in the garage, resets from the factory rims stored in the basement.
 
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Falls said:
Just run a good set of AT's that are snow rated and you'll be fine all year long. With the tire technology & compounds out there now and tread pattern's the way the are there is no need for snow tires unless you run total street tires in summer , and even some of those are not that bad if you get an all season tire.

I would hate messing around and swapping tires out every winter and spring. Been there done that when I was a young'n. The studded tires I can see you would have to do that.

Studded ..... sweet but illegal here in Wi.

This is BAD advice! Your "good" ATs are seriously inferior to real winter/snow tires in terms of outright snow and ice grip and anyone who doesn't mind the extra cost of the winter tire set up will benefit from the added safety and driving enjoyment the dedicated winter tires provide.
 

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