Retrofit all-day. There will not be a plug-in-play item currently on the market that will give you as much visibility nor blind oncoming drivers than this. I've never been high-beamed because of my retrofits. My brother-in-law put a set of cree led bulbs meant for halogen headlights in my sister's car and it's bright for her, but it's still somewhat blinding because of the spray from the stock halogen lights. Retrofits don't have hotspots. The light output in front of you is uniform. No joke, I feel safer/more confident driving my T4R at night now. The stocks were horrible and the brakes don't help.
I paid $251.62 for the entire setup from TRS. I didn't get halo's though nor did I black out the headlights. I'm 50/50 on regretting not doing both. I was going for a stock look at the time with just better output and mods to bring my car from a 2001 to something a decently packaged 2016 would have.
It is easily my favorite mod/upgrade I have done to date and I've done quite a bit in the last year. My last car had stock HID's and I'd say these are just as good. My last rental car in November was a new Ford Explorer and that was only slightly better. If the explorer was a 10, the retrofit is a 9.5. I could tell when I came back home to my T4R but it was still great. I felt as though my T4R lights were ever so dimmer than the ford's but the coverage was the same. Don't let that detract you though because compared to stock, I'd rate stock at 3.
Until you do it or see it in person, no one here is going to be able to explain how much better you see at night. If you know someone that has a car with factory HID's, drive their car at night. That's what it will be like. It's a really easy project with some basic tools, just set aside some time and double check your work before you seal them back up. It took me maybe 5 hours to do but only because I had to do it 5 times. 2x on each light because I shut them without the wire from the bixenon plugged in. A 3rd time because I got a "new to me" toyota headlight from eBay for $45 to replace an aftermarket one that was on the car because it could no longer be adjusted.
I was looking at all types of stuff prior and decided I would rather go with a trusted vendor that I would have no issues with warranty exchanges with. I chose 4500k for best visible output. I've used 8000k and 6000k in the past. In hind sight, I'd probably try 6000k to match my sidemarker LED's better. Side by side, they're more blue so it irks me.
I paid $251.62 for the entire setup from TRS. I didn't get halo's though nor did I black out the headlights. I'm 50/50 on regretting not doing both. I was going for a stock look at the time with just better output and mods to bring my car from a 2001 to something a decently packaged 2016 would have.
It is easily my favorite mod/upgrade I have done to date and I've done quite a bit in the last year. My last car had stock HID's and I'd say these are just as good. My last rental car in November was a new Ford Explorer and that was only slightly better. If the explorer was a 10, the retrofit is a 9.5. I could tell when I came back home to my T4R but it was still great. I felt as though my T4R lights were ever so dimmer than the ford's but the coverage was the same. Don't let that detract you though because compared to stock, I'd rate stock at 3.
Until you do it or see it in person, no one here is going to be able to explain how much better you see at night. If you know someone that has a car with factory HID's, drive their car at night. That's what it will be like. It's a really easy project with some basic tools, just set aside some time and double check your work before you seal them back up. It took me maybe 5 hours to do but only because I had to do it 5 times. 2x on each light because I shut them without the wire from the bixenon plugged in. A 3rd time because I got a "new to me" toyota headlight from eBay for $45 to replace an aftermarket one that was on the car because it could no longer be adjusted.
I was looking at all types of stuff prior and decided I would rather go with a trusted vendor that I would have no issues with warranty exchanges with. I chose 4500k for best visible output. I've used 8000k and 6000k in the past. In hind sight, I'd probably try 6000k to match my sidemarker LED's better. Side by side, they're more blue so it irks me.
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