Why so many beefs about the 5th gen speed?

Doesn't the acceleration have everything to do with VVTi? It's all about your foot on the pedal.

Honestly though, I don't think a faster launch or speed is necessary. If you took the 5.7L in my '16 Sequoia and put it in the 4R, we'd kill ourselves with that power. Ever hit a surprise turn too fast In your 4R and thank God you weren't going faster in the turn? Per my previous post about my 2015 Limited 4R, I had It loaded with luggage last summer (full cargo carrier, 4 adults and one child, packed to the roof so I couldn't see out the rear view mirror) going up and down mountains in WV, VA and NC and never once said "this needs more power."
 
Hey folks, you just need to learn the programming of the transmission. It's geared to save fuel, so it'll make you PUSH on it to get to the power. Figure that out, and you're all good!
 
No offense but if I ever took the time and money to do that type of work to a Corolla my wife would probably throw some D cell batteries into a sock and flog me to death.

I am not being a hater either... I have also riced out my fair share of Hondas back in the days including a Integra Type-R and a 5th Gen Prelude, but after stepping back with perspective now, total waste of cash. It just wasn't worth it in the end.

There comes a point with certain cars that you just accept it for what it is, and love it for what it is, and enjoy it for what it is.

If I want to project a car I look at the platform first before jumping down a rabbit hole. I also know you are applying that example to a 4Runner but I bought Toyota trucks for reliability. Last thing I want is some joker from MaxBore creating MaxProblems for me.

No offense taken sir, the Corolla X-RS 2006 I bought with the full intention it would be a modding-money pit. So it's a Corolla but that particular year shared many parts with the Celica GT-S. Only factory drawback is the rear suspension, have that dialed in and actually works pretty good though. Anybody can go fast in a straight line so I work on suspension running first and get that tweeted . Have a bunch of minor mods, will take any stock SI no problem, modded SI's , pretty much a dead heat. So if you know the variable lift motors , they are very intoxicating to drive. 0-120mph is totally insane.
 
I tune street cars for the track, and there are always several tradeoffs to be made when setting up a vehicle.

The primary knobs are Torque vs. Weight, HP vs. Drag, and Money (vs. Poorness).

A heavier vehicle will always require more torque to accelerate it from a standing start or up a hill. Adding weight in the form of armor or other accessories only makes a bigger job for the stock engine to accerate the truck. And for any given engine, you will always have to push farther into the throttle in a heavy vehicle to get things rolling. (Incidentally, increasing the inertial mass of the wheels and tires also requires more torque to move things forward, and increasing the tire diameter effectively raises the final drive ratio, which also doesn't help acceleration.)

At highway speeds and above, drag is the enemy; drag is the product of coefficient of drag (Cd) times the effective frontal area. So increased tire sizes, lifting, and any hardware that increases the frontal profile of the vehicle or increases the drag coefficient will require more HP to move it through the air at a given speed.

The above two challenges can always be compensated for by spending More Money. That's why the factory hot-rodded trucks and the top-line European SUVs have more powerful engines, and are substatially more expensive than the standard models.

Having said all that, I didn't buy the T4R to race. And I didn't want to spend $10k+ more to buy it. It's got a heavy BOF so I can take it through terrain too rugged for a uni-body crossover, as well as pull a travel trailer or track car. I don't plan on winning any races doing either. And I want it to last at least 200k miles.

Incidentally, I agree with nw-hunter. Almost all modern cars have a "drive-by-wire throttle", and actually have a program that decides how much to open the throttle for a given pedal movement. Although some manufacturers and aftermarket tuners remap the pedal-to-throttle map in the engine ECU to get quicker "throttle response", this is usually to compensate for/mask a powerplant that is perceived as underpowered for its target audience; this is achieved by opening the throttle body faster for a smaller amount of pedal movement. It makes the vehicle seem faster.

Ironically, in race cars, it is more important to have a linear throttle mapping that allows a good range of engine control/sensitivity when the vehicle is at the limits of tire grip and/or traction. I'd guess that that would also be a desireable trait for a slow-speed off-road vehicle as well...
 
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I think most people on this site are former or present Ferrari owners.:behindsofa:
:thumb3: I'm on my third 4Runner, but I wasn't impressed either when it wasn't as fast as my S/C Corvette...LOL....:crazy:
Mine does fine, it's for highway cruising and does very well at 80-85-MPH. When I feel like going North of 100+ MPH, that's what the Corvette is for...

Good choice.. seductive like a siren. Skip to the last paragraph of this article for the take-home message.
Are Range Rover and Land Rover Actually Reliable?
Funny, I was actually looking at a 2017 RR HSE SC, V6, no one in the showroom seemed interested, we had a couple of conversation, this would have been a cash sale, but I just didn't get the right vibe, but, I'm off that trip now. No RR for me.
 
Only speed you'll hear me complain about is the climate control fan speed. Doesn't exactly blow the hair back, and when you split it between upper and lower vents, the upper is barely getting anything!

When I put the right foot down, she shits and gets for an SUV.
 
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I tune street cars for the track, and there are always several tradeoffs to be made when setting up a vehicle.

The primary knobs are Torque vs. Weight, HP vs. Drag, and Money (vs. Poorness).

A heavier vehicle will always require more torque to accelerate it from a standing start or up a hill. Adding weight in the form of armor or other accessories only makes a bigger job for the stock engine to accerate the truck. And for any given engine, you will always have to push farther into the throttle in a heavy vehicle to get things rolling. (Incidentally, increasing the inertial mass of the wheels and tires also requires more torque to move things forward, and increasing the tire diameter effectively raises the final drive ratio, which also doesn't help acceleration.)

At highway speeds and above, drag is the enemy; drag is the product of coefficient of drag (Cd) times the effective frontal area. So increased tire sizes, lifting, and any hardware that increases the frontal profile of the vehicle or increases the drag coefficient will require more HP to move it through the air at a given speed.

The above two challenges can always be compensated for by spending More Money. That's why the factory hot-rodded trucks and the top-line European SUVs have more powerful engines, and are substatially more expensive than the standard models.

Having said all that, I didn't buy the T4R to race. And I didn't want to spend $10k+ more to buy it. It's got a heavy BOF so I can take it through terrain too rugged for a uni-body crossover, as well as pull a travel trailer or track car. I don't plan on winning any races doing either. And I want it to last at least 200k miles.

Incidentally, I agree with nw-hunter. Almost all modern cars have a "drive-by-wire throttle", and actually have a program that decides how much to open the throttle for a given pedal movement. Although some manufacturers and aftermarket tuners remap the pedal-to-throttle map in the engine ECU to get quicker "throttle response", this is usually to compensate for/mask a powerplant that is perceived as underpowered for its target audience; this is achieved by opening the throttle body faster for a smaller amount of pedal movement. It makes the vehicle seem faster.

Ironically, in race cars, it is more important to have a linear throttle mapping that allows a good range of engine control/sensitivity when the vehicle is at the limits of tire grip and/or traction. I'd guess that that would also be a desireable trait for a slow-speed off-road vehicle as well...

Most people get confused about what throttle response vs throttle mapping is. Throttle response to me is how fast the motor and electronics respond to throttle movement. There is both electronic and mechanical/engine response involved in this equation.

Throttle mapping is simply the look up table between voltage on the potentiometer and demanded throttle position in the CPU as a %.

On the 5th gen the mapping is not linear at all. You get a very slow ramp and then it is like a light switch. The same basic motor (but with non dual VVTI) in the 4th gen and FJ feels totally different. It has almost the exact opposite throttle mapping and is a joy to drive.

I drive a lot of different cars on a weekly basis. All my other vehicles are high HP v8s... My 4r is fine (especially with the gearing). It feels bad when I first get into it, but my brain learns the quirks and adjust to it. But then when I get in my other vehicles I'm typically getting a little too aggressive on the throttle and I have to adjust again.

Additionally the 5th gens throttle response is poor. You can feel this in that the engine response is a bit different from a stop with steady acceleration vs tip in. This has to do with how the ECU is programmed for acceleration enrichment (old school term for this was accelerator pump).... They really F'ed it up on the 5th gen. Worst tuning I have ever experienced in a vehicle. The motor is fine, the tuning sucks big time in terms of drivability. It gets the job done, but you have to learn to make it do what you want. That's typically not what a product designer is shooting for. Like I said.. just drive a 4th gen or FJ from pre 2010. They are pretty similar in terms of weight... (although the FJ is a bit lighter). Feels like a different motor... You would swear that older ones had way more power, but in an actual drag race... the 5th gen will win easy. At least mine does.
 
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Sprint Booster

I've had mine for a year and would not drive a newer 4 Runner without it. It is a huge upgrade. The 4.0 has plenty of power. You just need the throttle response corrected.

You read my mind!!!! Installed mine this past weekend. Can't believe I've had this truck new since 2011 and finally found this product. Trucks a ball to drive!!!!
 
I'm new to this forum but not to 4WD. I just upgraded to an 2016 SR5 from a 1998 SR5. Worlds apart in many ways as one might expect. I've been a longtime Toyota fan having owned multiple Camrys, Corolas and a Celica. Best reliability over US built which may be why many stay dedicated to the brand.

The pickup is plenty form me and exceeds my '98. Better than my old '75 CJ7 and 198??Trooper. Slower than my Ramcharger but that sported a large V8 which got 10 MPG. Cruising speed seemed fine on my expressway but I don't need to do 90....not sure why anyone does.

Bottom line for me I'm a happy camper. I haven't put it on the beach just yet but I have no doubt this will do just fine.
Enjoy. my .02
 
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4K miiles and needs new throttle body

2018 ORP. I'm assuming the pause while accelerating and reaccelerating where there is a good 1-2 seconds of nothing (which feels very unsafe) is perhaps related to the throttle body.

But yesterday after that occurred for the umth time I pushed down to accelerate and lost all acceleration. Check engine light came on and TRAC off signal.

Took it to dealer. New Throttle body needed. May be weeks to wait on part.

Anyone else having this?
 
2018 ORP. I'm assuming the pause while accelerating and reaccelerating where there is a good 1-2 seconds of nothing (which feels very unsafe) is perhaps related to the throttle body.

But yesterday after that occurred for the umth time I pushed down to accelerate and lost all acceleration. Check engine light came on and TRAC off signal.

Took it to dealer. New Throttle body needed. May be weeks to wait on part.

Anyone else having this?

Never had this kind of issue. And I come from a modded sportscar before. Must have been a bad part.
 
2018 ORP. I'm assuming the pause while accelerating and reaccelerating where there is a good 1-2 seconds of nothing (which feels very unsafe) is perhaps related to the throttle body.

But yesterday after that occurred for the umth time I pushed down to accelerate and lost all acceleration. Check engine light came on and TRAC off signal.

Took it to dealer. New Throttle body needed. May be weeks to wait on part.

Anyone else having this?

Had some of this over the summer minus the check engine and TRAC lights. Mashed the peddle down and nothing for a couple seconds then it slowly revved up. This was downtown in the heat of summer, 100+ degrees. Started putting 93 in the tank and it seemed to fix the problem. Engine was much more responsive with 93.

Hard to believe it takes weeks to get a throttle body. Do they know it's defective or are they throwing parts at it?
 
The Truck is transformed with the Pedal Commander........feels a thousand pounds ''lighter'' and responds in a normal fashion versus the leaden feel of the stock program. I never felt it was outright slow, but the boggy feeling was never right and NOT fun to try and modulate. Never had a hesitation though, even at 125 degree air temps here. Best $256 I spent on the Truck.
 
2018 ORP. I'm assuming the pause while accelerating and reaccelerating where there is a good 1-2 seconds of nothing (which feels very unsafe) is perhaps related to the throttle body.

But yesterday after that occurred for the umth time I pushed down to accelerate and lost all acceleration. Check engine light came on and TRAC off signal.

Took it to dealer. New Throttle body needed. May be weeks to wait on part.

Anyone else having this?

Never heard of that being an issue. Had mined cleaned out as routine maintenance with the ODO around 48K and 15 months of ownership at the time. Hopefully you get yours repaired soon: WAY too earlier to be dealing with an issue like that especially with a 4Runner.
 
I knew going into getting a 4runner, it wasn't a speed machine. I knew they were slow relative to pretty much everything. I bought this thing to go 300k miles or more and then hand down to my kid.

That said...I came from a 2014 Explorer with 3.5. Compared to the Explorer, the 4.0 has about 20 more ft-lbs but 20+ less horsepower and the whole vehicle was about 5-6 mpg lower.

What I've noticed is that with the 3.73 rear, and the slightly larger engine giving more torque, "around town" driving is WAY better than the explorer. You had to mash the throttle down to get the thing to even move. Super super annoying. The 4runner I blip the throttle and it takes of nicely.

However when passing at highway speeds, the 4runner feels like a standstill compared to the 3.5 explorer.

All in all though my new thinking is: The 4runner is the fastest vehicle on the planet when the race is measured from 0-300,000 miles.
 

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