here's the pic incase it helps someone else out down the road. This is from the brake pedal looking toward the outside of the vehicle.
When it comes to fuse taps, there's a hot side, and a fused side. I determined which was which in the fusebox with my multimeter. What this means is that you'll want to take note of the orientation of the wire that leaves the 'add a fuse' tap with respect to the fusebox in the photo I post.
Here's a brief description:
https://www.blackboxmycar.com/blogs/news/how-to-use-an-add-a-fuse-kit
The fuse slot closest to the bottom of the fuse tap is for the original accessory. The one at the top, adjacent to the wire that leaves the fuse tap, is for your accessory, in this case a dash cam. I like to use a lower capacity fuse for the accessory. IE: if the original fuse is a 10A for a vehicle outlet (let's say), I'd use a 7.5A fuse in the top slot of the tap for my dashcam.
Wire management was tricky, just because of the space involved. I found it helpful to press the emergency brake pedal down. I tied up the excess wires with tie wraps (there wasn't a lot, maybe an extra 16" of wire), and attached the small square box on the garmin parking mode cable to the side of the plastic fuse box in the vehicle. I used 2-sided tape for this.
Please note, I used the 7.5A "ACC" slot for my garmin 'acc' lead, and not the "P/outlet" that I showed in the diagram in an earlier post.
Kudos to Antman, as I found all this information on his build thread.
