Wiring help for light bar integration with high beam switch

[tnine]

Hey guys,
I'm learning how to wire up some LED lights I intend to install in my Gobi roof rack. I'm doing a spot/flood combo in the front, then a flood in each sides and 2 in the rear of my gobi rack.

From my understanding, the basics are the following.

Run power to the relay for the light. Run power from the relay to your lights. Run the switch lines to the relay to open/close the circuit in the relay.

Seems simple enough. I'm going to purchase one of these fuse boxes, as suggested by [MENTION=78909]alexb[/MENTION] in his build thread. I feel it will be a cleaner way to install my relays rather than have 3 of them just dangling in my engine compartment.

Universal Relay Fuse Auxiliary Distribution Box Jeep Cooper Bussmann Off Road | eBay


However, I'd like to deviate from just a standard on/off switch in the cab. I think I'd like the following configuration.


The ability to turn the front light on/off via switch manually, as well as link it to my high beams. This way when my high beams are turned on, the light bar will turn on as well. I want to be able to shut the light bar off and, override this behavior.

I also want to do the same thing for my rear floods, and be able to link them to my backup lights, and well as turn them on/off without the need for reverse.


In a house, I'd use some permutation of a 3 way switch. I'm new to automotive wiring, so I'm not sure what parts I should be researching.

I'm not sure if this is possible, so I could use some advice from someone more knowledgable than myself. I'm assuming I just need the correct switches wired to my relay, but I'm unsure what that configuration would be.



Any guidance would be greatly appreciate!

Thanks,
Todd

 

[rigtec]

Hi tnine,

Running three relays, Loads (LED's), and three switches to control them is easy; even with the new multi-circuit sub-panel. But... you 'upped the game' when you decided to integrate dual triggers to feed the relays! Now you'll need to implement "strategically located" diodes or 'interlocked dry contacts' to prevent these circuits from feeding back e.g., 'etched illuminated interior switches' glowing whenever the overheads are on, or the High-beams coming on with the reverse lights...

And these 4Runner's are operating on a 'Switched ground' (or negative side switching) platform; which make things a bit more complex. Probably the best thing to do would be to talk to [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION]! He's done this a lot so he'll be able to guide you using which ever switch manufacturer you're using; A.O.B., slee off-road... and he has the wiring diagrams for these switches and the relays to work on a negative-side switch build.

Best rgds!

 

[barryhiram]

Hi tnine,

Sorry I didn’t respond sooner, been traveling for work :tape:

From my understanding, the basics are the following.

Run power to the relay for the light. Run power from the relay to your lights. Run the switch lines to the relay to open/close the circuit in the relay.

You're correct. Switch wire (open/close or on/off) can be positive(+) or negative(-) trigger. In your case positive should suffice.

Seems simple enough. I'm going to purchase one of these fuse boxes, as suggested by [MENTION=78909]alexb[/MENTION] in his build thread. I feel it will be a cleaner way to install my relays rather than have 3 of them just dangling in my engine compartment.

Universal Relay Fuse Auxiliary Distribution Box Jeep Cooper Bussmann Off Road | eBay

Looks like a nice setup, should be easy to add additional items in the future.

However, I'd like to deviate from just a standard on/off switch in the cab. I think I'd like the following configuration.


The ability to turn the front light on/off via switch manually, as well as link it to my high beams. This way when my high beams are turned on, the light bar will turn on as well. I want to be able to shut the light bar off and, override this behavior.

I also want to do the same thing for my rear floods, and be able to link them to my backup lights, and well as turn them on/off without the need for reverse.

You're referring to a latching Double Pole Double Throw switch (DPDT, on/off/on). They are available as a toggle or rocker switch. If using this type of switch and above relay block, a diode wouldn't be necessary when integrating high beams.

Couple of question..............

Where do you plan on mounting switches?
Additional items that would be wired to relay block in the future?
Purpose for high beam trigger for front overhead light bar?


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html

 

[AudiTech]

This way when my high beams are turned on, the light bar will turn on as well. I want to be able to shut the light bar off and, override this behavior.

If I'm following what you're trying to, here's what I'd do.

Wire it up as normal relay, that gets it's control side from the high beams and install a on/off toggle switch on the power or ground wire. That way with the toggle in the closed position the lights will come on whenever the high beams are on. If you have the switch in the open position they wont turn on when you activate the high beams.

 

[marshal]

The other thing he could do would be to run a dual pin relay. I forget what number those relays are but they have 2 switch tabs for multiple sources.

You would have one set up to switch on manually, and the other pin would be used on a positive high beam tap as a switch source.

If you use a 2 mode rocker like listed above, on off - you should be able to easily tackle your needs without the use of diodes.

One on mode would illuminate the light bar manually, the off mode would entirely disable your manual and would be activated off the high beams. This does however limit you from overriding your high beams

 

[barryhiram]

The other thing he could do would be to run a dual pin relay. I forget what number those relays are but they have 2 switch tabs for multiple sources.

You would have one set up to switch on manually, and the other pin would be used on a positive high beam tap as a switch source.

If you use a 2 mode rocker like listed above, on off - you should be able to easily tackle your needs without the use of diodes.

One on mode would illuminate the light bar manually, the off mode would entirely disable your manual and would be activated off the high beams. This does however limit you from overriding your high beams

Can Bussmann be ordered with dual pin relays? :noidea:

You are partially correct, but the switch I was referring to has three positions not two..........On, Off, On

Top position (On) would manually turn on light bar.
Middle position (Off) turns off light bar.
Down position (On) would allow light bar to turn on/off whenever high beams are activated or deactivated.

Think that's what the OP was looking for........:noidea:

 

[marshal]

so are you saying the second on position would complete the circuit, whereas otherwise the tap would be grounded? how would you go about wiring that without a second relay, or is that even possible? i don't think the switch would be up to handling that level of current and no the a fire hazard

 

[barryhiram]

Switch is just a trigger to energize Bussmann relay to turn light bar on/off , load would be milliamps, no fire risk.



Terminal #1 - Wire from high beam (12 volts when high beams are energized)
Terminal #2 - Not used
Terminal #3 & 4 - Join together, run wire to terminal #86 of Bussmann relay for light bar
Terminal #5 - Not used
Terminal #6 - Manual turn on circuit (constant 12 volt or ignition 12 volt), depending on how you want lights to turn on.......any time or with vehicle running

Switch position is opposite terminal orientation, up - terminals 4 & 6, down - terminals 1 & 3. Of coarse, adding fuses to any power line is highly advisable!

 

[marshal]

Ohhhhhh I see what your getting at. Makes sense now

 

[barryhiram]

:cheers:

Edit: FYI [MENTION=104049]marshal[/MENTION], switch made by Cole Hersee, has a load rating of 25A at 12V.

Toggle Switches55018 | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse

 

[tnine]

Thanks for all of the replies guys, I really appreciate it. So to answer some questions.
[MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION]

I'd like to put the switches in the empty slots near my wiper mirror heater switch. I have 3 empty slots there, I have an SR5. If I can find a DPDT switch that mounts there, that would be great.

Do you have a switch you would recommend? A quick amazon search gives me something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/On-off-Marine...l3do01L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_

Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again guys!

 

[barryhiram]

Thanks for all of the replies guys, I really appreciate it. So to answer some questions.
[MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION]

I'd like to put the switches in the empty slots near my wiper mirror heater switch. I have 3 empty slots there, I have an SR5. If I can find a DPDT switch that mounts there, that would be great.



Amazon.com : Bandc 7 Pins 2 LED Light On-off-on Marine Boat Rocker Switch Dpdt Waterproof 12v 24v : Sports & Outdoors

Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again guys!

Switch looks correct, but it's a little long, would require cutting hole larger. For a perfect fit, measurement should be about 1.28" x 0.87" (32.5 mm x 22 mm). Both Slee and AOB offer switches that fit without trimming, but they are SPST (single pole, single throw on/off) or momentary.

Slee - Electrical Switches
TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board

Another company to check out is OTRATTW, a lot of guys around here use them.

Do you have a switch you would recommend?

Now that you mention it (lol), http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html........kind of went a little overboard with LED back lighting :naughty:

 

[rigtec]

"...Do you have a switch you would recommend? A quick amazon search gives me something like this..."

Hi tnine,

If you choose to use a NON-Barry's 'FRICKIN FLAMING FABULOUS FACTORY FITTING FOG ("not that there's anything wrong with that...") 'in-dash switches this is what your "lower airbag knee bolster panel" may look like; see red arrow... definitely recommend using [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] suggestion! LOL!



Sorry Barry; I couldn't help myself... :hiding:

Cheers

 

[mogmanbrad]

This can be done easily with a few diodes added to the circuit. Here is how I did it in my Tacoma. The wire shown in blue with note "see page 3" is tied to the high beam (grounding) wire near the headlight.

 

[tnine]

Thanks for all the help guys. Now that I think I comprehend how I'm going to proceed, I'll be ordering parts soon and getting started on this. One last question, where do I get my hands on a wiring diagram for the 4runner so that I can find the existing bright switch line and backup light line?

 

[rigtec]

"...One last question, where do I get my hands on a wiring diagram for the 4runner so that I can find the existing bright switch line and backup light line?"

Hi tnine,

Just shoot me a PM when you're ready and I'll give you whatever 4Runner wiring diagrams you're looking for!

tnine said: I'd like to put the switches in the empty slots near my wiper mirror heater switch. I have 3 empty slots there, I have an SR5. If I can find a DPDT switch that mounts there, that would be great. Do you have a switch you would recommend?

Just a suggestion: I'm using those same 'in-dash' switches in Barry's thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html for PIAA fogs and OPT7 led light-bar. You don't need a DPDT in-dash switch, just use a standard 'slee off-road' or 'AOB' in-dash switch to trigger a relay that has DPDT contacts... 'Problem solved!' :wave:

cheers!

 

[Swarty]

Be very Careful

The ability to turn the front light on/off via switch manually, as well as link it to my high beams. This way when my high beams are turned on, the light bar will turn on as well. I want to be able to shut the light bar off and, override this behavior.

In every state I've lived in if you have more than 4 white lights on facing forward it's a per light fine. On a large LED bar this can literally be a ticket for over a couple grand. Saw a coworkers ticket for $2250 for his twin row 40". I know you mentioned the override but that would be really easy to forget. Personally I'd just leave it on a separate switch for this reason. The convenience isn't worth the risk to me. Check your local laws...

 

[tnine]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]

Thanks for the pointer. A quick question though. When wiring up a DPDT relay, what would I have for the "master" off switch? I don't quite understand how I would accomplish a master off position, and then use the single switch for constant on, or bright light toggle for on/off.

Having the master off is important to me. I'd always be in the master off position in civilization, then only activate my light bar with my brights toggle when I'm in the middle of nowhere in the mountains.


Thanks,
Todd

 

[rigtec]

[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION]

"...Thanks for the pointer. A quick question though. When wiring up a DPDT relay, what would I have for the "master" off switch? I don't quite understand how I would accomplish a master off position, and then use the single switch for constant on, or bright light toggle for on/off..."

Hi Todd,

Why not just install a 100A relay to break the feed cable to the new 'Sub-panel fusebox'? This will kill all auxiliary lighting at once. Or, you could also use the 100A relay as a main power supply to just certain lights/accessories and install a switch on the dash to operate it.

Cheers!

 

[rigtec]

Hi [MENTION=107451]tnine[/MENTION],

This relay may be a great candidate for you main switch purpose(s)...

Cooper Bussmann Power Fuse Module 37701 2 Jcase Fuse Holders | eBay