WTF!!! Bleeding brakes!!! Impossible

H

her-truck

New member
Okay I just did a full front brake job on my 03 limited v8....I replaced the calipers and had to bleed the brakes...I realized after several bleeding attempts that I could not get all the air out...It would stream clean fluid(no bubbles) but soon as I drive it...there was air.

I then tried bleeding the rears by having my wife pump the brakes....I could not get any fluid to come out....I took the bleeder out and it was NOT CLOGGED....I tried again and still nothing!!! WTF am I missing????

Help me please.

Corey
 
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If I'm not mistaken, you MUST have the ignition key "on" (but engine not running) to properly bleed the 4th gen 4Runner brakes. Try it out...
 
One other thing I just thought of...

You should always bleed brakes starting at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder and ending at the closest wheel to the master cylinder.

You said that you replaced the front calipers, but are you bleeding all the brakes? You should, because the brakes are crossed linked front to rear. Try bleeding them all again starting with the right rear and ending with the left front.
 
EH007 said:
If I'm not mistaken, you MUST have the ignition key "on" (but engine not running) to properly bleed the 4th gen 4Runner brakes. Try it out...
Click to expand...

Correct. That's how I do it without any issues. It has an electric brake booster that must be powered on.
 
I have replaced front caliper and just bleed that front caliper with no problems. The engine was running and I closed the brake line after removing caliper so fluid would stop leaking and then reattached. I think my brakes work well, it is same as before, seems I do not have air in the system.
 
so...i just replaced my front calipers driver and passenger....feels good although the pedal still feels squishy. I bled just the fronts....do i need to bleed the rears even though i did not mess with them??? would that solve my squishy feel in the pedal? i had no bubbles in the front>>>need help!
 
Please correct me if I'm wrong, as I'm going off of memory, but there are 2 brake lines that criss cross from front to rear making an x, incase the master cylinder breaks or something. Its a safety mechanism. So considering that that the front brake lines are connected to the rear, air in the lines, is still air in the lines.
 
Um, I don't know about you guys, but I've been taught and it's always been the norm that you always bleed all lines. If you're replacing a caliper, yes let that fill up with fluid first either through gravity bleed or some vacuum. Then you always start the bleeding process starting from the caliper furthest from the booster (pass rear). Continue then to driver's rear, pass front, driver's front.

Also since the system is electronic, the key should be in the on position.
 
4th generation back brake bleed

Hi, so I was trying to bleed the back rear (passenger) drum brake and not getting any fluid out, had my wife pump the brakes as directed. Still nothing out. Does the car need to be leveled? I only have the back on jacks. Also, I just read on the forum here that the ignition should be turned to on, without the engine running. I will try that. I only replaced the rotors and brake pads yesterday and it felt the braking was worse, that’s why I’m trying to bleed all 4 brakes starting from the furthest one as recommended
 
Bellcha1 said:
Hi, so I was trying to bleed the back rear (passenger) drum brake and not getting any fluid out, had my wife pump the brakes as directed. Still nothing out. Does the car need to be leveled? I only have the back on jacks. Also, I just read on the forum here that the ignition should be turned to on, without the engine running. I will try that. I only replaced the rotors and brake pads yesterday and it felt the braking was worse, that’s why I’m trying to bleed all 4 brakes starting from the furthest one as recommended
Click to expand...

Nice zombie thread btw.

When bleeding the rear you just have to have the ignition on and press the pedal til you hear the system pumping. For the front you would just bleed it the traditional way.

Regarding the new pads / rotors. You might need to make sure you bed the new pads before they start braking properly. Just in case.
 
Sorry, it was for a 2007 4Runner SR5. Replaced the front brakes and rotors only but trying to bleed all 4 brake lines.
 
Bellcha1 said:
Sorry, it was for a 2007 4Runner SR5. Replaced the front brakes and rotors only but trying to bleed all 4 brake lines.
Click to expand...

Its the same as I described. I did that on my rig which is also an 07. You still have to remember to bed the brakes. Bleed procedure is as I described, I just did it last month. You can read about the details in my build thread.

Here is info on bedding your brakes.
Brake Bedding
 
2007 4Runner SR5 with resurfaced rotors and new pads

tv4184 said:
Its the same as I described. I did that on my rig which is also an 07. You still have to remember to bed the brakes. Bleed procedure is as I described, I just did it last month. You can read about the details in my build thread.

Here is info on bedding your brakes.
Brake Bedding
Click to expand...


So I was able to bleed the brakes front and rear, does the front brakes supposed to squirt out or just moderate dribble? My expectation was that it would just spew out, it did not. Also, just took it for a test drive and the sensation of a pulsating stop is still there rather then a nice firm stop. I will try to bed the brakes now.

FYI: I had the rotors resurfaced and just used to brake pads.
 
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