Yes another Keyless Entry question. Have researched, please Help.

ceebs40

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Just got a 99' 4runner. Has factory rs3000 alarm (VIP). Key Fob Model FCC ID 1512Y. Has 3 buttons - lock,unlock,rear window with red panic on opposite side. Fob only locks and won't unlock or roll down rear window.

I've changed the battery in the remote and checked connections inside controller and still no go.

From what i've read, I think it needs to be reprogrammed...

Do I reprogram the key by doing the lock/unlock/open door method, or do I reset on actual alarm ECU?

I've tried the steps here.. 1999 Toyota 4Runner - Free Keyless Remote Fob Entry programming instructions, procedures for all automotive vehicles. Tried probably a dozen times, fast, slow, consistent,etc. still no go.

Then I came across resetting the ECU here... RS3000 Toyota Vehicle Intrusion Protection. Now i'm trying to find the actual ECU. Can't find it under the driver seat, or under dash. Do see the Glass Sensor ECU, but not the rs3000 unit.

First it was figuring out if the alarm was rs3000 or rs3200. Manual in glove box says rs3000 so that's solved. Now trying to figure out which method above I use to reprogram keyfob.

Please help. Key fobs woppin my ass! :bash:
 
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Just found it's a factory installed rs3000 unit. Controllers for factory and dealer/port are different.

Bulletin from Toyota here... www.97supraturbo.com/Tech stuff/RS3000.pdf

Bulletin from Toyota still doesn't show where ECU is located :wtf: so that's still a mystery.

Does controller type affect how to reprogram? Is it the Lock/unlock hoopla or pushing button reset on ECU?

Can someone shed some light please..
 
If it was indeed the RS3000 (which I don't think it is, since those alarms use the two-button remotes), the "brain" would be under the carpet under the driver's seat. If there's nothing there, either it was removed, or it was never there to begin with.

You have the factory-installed alarm with the 3-button remote (NOT the dealer-installed RS3000 or RS3200). Sounds to me like your remote is not 100%. I'd buy two new remotes and program them. They are cheap on eBay.
 
If it was indeed the RS3000 (which I don't think it is, since those alarms use the two-button remotes), the "brain" would be under the carpet under the driver's seat. If there's nothing there, either it was removed, or it was never there to begin with.

You have the factory-installed alarm with the 3-button remote (NOT the dealer-installed RS3000 or RS3200). Sounds to me like your remote is not 100%. I'd buy two new remotes and program them. They are cheap on eBay.

There is a manual in the glovebox for the rs3000 so i'm pretty sure it's the rs3000... could this be wrong?

Also, if you see the Toyota Bulletin here... www.97supraturbo.com/Tech stuff/RS3000.pdf it shows that I have the "factory" installed rs3000 (fig 10). It also shows fig 4 controller which is NOT the controller I have. I have the 3 button controller shown in fig 10.

Am I reading this correct?

Now just trying to figure out how to reprogram, reset ECU or lock/unlock sequence.

Thanks.
 

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I would verify my rs3000 is under my seat. VISUALLY VERIFY. I had one that had been dunked under water and fried it so I had to get a new one. Im sure youll find the bug, but alarm bugs are tough to find.
 
There is a manual in the glovebox for the rs3000 so i'm pretty sure it's the rs3000... could this be wrong?

Also, if you see the Toyota Bulletin here... www.97supraturbo.com/Tech stuff/RS3000.pdf it shows that I have the "factory" installed rs3000 (fig 10). It also shows fig 4 controller which is NOT the controller I have. I have the 3 button controller shown in fig 10.

Am I reading this correct?

Now just trying to figure out how to reprogram, reset ECU or lock/unlock sequence.

Thanks.

Having the manual in the glovebox doesn't prove anything.

What year is your runner, and what trim (base, SR5, Limited)?
If your remote looks like the one in figure 10 - you have the factory installed system....which is not the RS3000.

There is a chance someone at the dealership tossed in a generic RS3000 manual when you bought it. There is also a chance that you have the RS3000, but the wrong remotes...which just so happen to be configured to lock the doors...which is highly unlikely.
 
Having the manual in the glovebox doesn't prove anything.

What year is your runner, and what trim (base, SR5, Limited)?
If your remote looks like the one in figure 10 - you have the factory installed system....which is not the RS3000.

There is a chance someone at the dealership tossed in a generic RS3000 manual when you bought it. There is also a chance that you have the RS3000, but the wrong remotes...which just so happen to be configured to lock the doors...which is highly unlikely.

Runner is a 99', SR5.

Remote looks like fig. 10. Bought from Private Seller which is why I assumed it was legit...

Also, I have physically looked for the ECU under the driver seat, around fuse box, kick panel, etc., but was only looking for it if I needed to push reset on actual alarm ECU unit to reprogram...

Sounds like I have the factory system.. if so, do I reprogram the key fob by the lock/unlock sequence? I've done that 20 times. Pretty sure i'd of got it by now. I get stuck at step 6b, cycles twice. 1999 Toyota 4Runner - Free Keyless Remote Fob Entry programming instructions, procedures for all automotive vehicles

Might be the remote...? If so, just ebay for FCC ID 1512Y? Then lock/unlock sequence to program?

Key fob can only lock right now, no unlock or rear window.

Thanks folks.
 
Yup, I'd try a different remote. Scan ebay closely - some are in better shape than others. Plan on buying a new battery for it as well.
 
Having the manual in the glovebox doesn't prove anything.

What year is your runner, and what trim (base, SR5, Limited)?
If your remote looks like the one in figure 10 - you have the factory installed system....which is not the RS3000.

There is a chance someone at the dealership tossed in a generic RS3000 manual when you bought it. There is also a chance that you have the RS3000, but the wrong remotes...which just so happen to be configured to lock the doors...which is highly unlikely.

I too have a 1999 4Runner and it also had the RS-3000 manual in the glove box, however I followed the steps to program the remotes as if the system was factory installed and it worked. I would recommend to everyone that you first try the factory-installed instructions here before you go looking for a box that might not be there: 1999 Toyota 4Runner - Free Keyless Remote Fob Entry programming instructions, procedures for all automotive vehicles
 
Hello all, this is my first post and I'm having a similar issue with my remote fob and the rear window button not working. I have a 2002 SR5 SportEdition that I pick up last month. It didn't come with any key fobs and I couldn't find the RS-300 box under the drivers seat or in the engine bay or any of the other usual places, but when I tried the reprogramming sequence with the door/lock/ignition dance, the truck responded letting me know that there's something installed.

So, I got an amazon remote and tried programming it.

The first attempt resulted in the door lock buttons working, but the rear window wouldn't roll down. Instead, the alarm went off when I hit the window button. I didn't know I had an alarm, so that's a plus!

The second attempt resulted in the door lock buttons working, but the rear window button does nothing now.

I'm only two attempts in, but I'm left wondering a few things.
1. The truck doesn't have the ability to roll the window down from the remote. (The window does roll down from the cabin and the rear lock so I know that it does work)
2. The fob isn't correct.
3. I just need to keep trying until it works.

Do you guys think I just need to keep trying or am I missing an important link in the chain?

Thanks for any help in advance.
 
The first attempt resulted in the door lock buttons working, but the rear window wouldn't roll down. Instead, the alarm went off when I hit the window button. I didn't know I had an alarm, so that's a plus!

Do you guys think I just need to keep trying or am I missing an important link in the chain?

same problem i have, it is well documented on the t4r subreddit as well as the main programming instructions thread on this site. afaik, there is no solution. all three of my remotes do it. half of me wants to go to toyota and pay their $130 price for a remote and if it doesn't roll down the rear window, take it back and complain.

would be worth it for me to pay $130 if it does actually roll down the rear window. that's the main reason i bought my fobs.
 
Hate to ask... but you do know you have to press and hold the rear window button on the remote for it to work, right?

-Charlie

Yes, you have to press & hold it. This way you don't accidentally hit it & open it in the rain or whatever.
I used to use it all the time when I lived by the beach. I would hit the rear window to let the heat out after baking in the sun all day.

I'm pretty sure the truck has to be locked & turned off for it to work. Just like the truck release on my 09 Accord.
 
Have you guys tried to reset the programming? it's the same process as programming a fob however where you would turn the key to on and then back off you do that 5 times and it will clear all learned fobs. You could attempt that and then redo the initial programming and see if it helps at all
 
same problem i have, it is well documented on the t4r subreddit as well as the main programming instructions thread on this site. afaik, there is no solution. all three of my remotes do it. half of me wants to go to toyota and pay their $130 price for a remote and if it doesn't roll down the rear window, take it back and complain.

would be worth it for me to pay $130 if it does actually roll down the rear window. that's the main reason i bought my fobs.

I spoke with the parts department and was told that the fob was discontinued. I think I may swoop an OEM fob up off of eBay and see if that helps things any. Aside from the no window/panic button, I've noticed that the amazon fob is kind of spotty in its use - sometimes I have to be right up next to the truck to get it to work.

Have you guys tried to reset the programming? it's the same process as programming a fob however where you would turn the key to on and then back off you do that 5 times and it will clear all learned fobs. You could attempt that and then redo the initial programming and see if it helps at all

I may give this a go tonight. Does the truck respond with confirmation that the reset worked?
 
Another quick question now that I'm looking, is the FCC ID HYQ1512Y for my 2002?

I got that ID from another thread about a 2000 SR5 and I wasn't sure if the fob ID changed over the years.
 
Another quick question now that I'm looking, is the FCC ID HYQ1512Y for my 2002?

I got that ID from another thread about a 2000 SR5 and I wasn't sure if the fob ID changed over the years.

According to my research on the subject that is the correct fob ID.

Also yes once completing the 5 key on key off sequence you'll get a lock/unlock from the car to let you know it has completed and cleared out any programming memory
 
Quick update: I got a used OEM remote off eBay for $25 and everything works as it should. Aside from the window function now working, the physical remote feels more robust than the aftermarket one off Amazon - the buttons have a much more positive click to them when pushed.

For posterity: I have a 2002 SR5 with no RS-300 box, but I did get confirmation using the reset instructions. The fob is OEM with FCC ID HYQ1512Y. If the back of the case isn't stamped with the ID and build information, then it's aftermarket and might not work correctly.

$_57.JPG
 
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not sure about the other guy, but yeah i know that. every time i hold it down it just acts like the panic button.

I pulled open the aftermarket remote to compare to my OEM fob and noticed a key difference. The PC board in the aftermarket fob isn't fixed into place meaning that when you push any button on the fob the board moves a fraction before the button on the board is depressed. This is a problem on the window button because it's directly behind the panic button and what I noticed is that when pressing the window button, the board moves and depresses the panic button as well. You can actually feel two "clicks" when pushing the window button.

I haven't tried it, but you may want to pull the fob apart and try hitting the window button and see what happens. The fix may be as simple as inserting some sort of spacer behind the board so the panic button doesn't depress when pushing the window button.
 

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