Yeti 400 to power fridge? alternative to dual battery

e60ral

e60ral

Banned
Since apparently summer is coming fast here, I need to get something setup for the fridge.

I have a Dometic 40qt fridge and want something to help prolong the run time but don't want to spend the money on deep cycle batteries and new alternator.

I currently have an always-on 12V outlet installed in the back that I use to power the fridge. What I am planning on doing is adding a low-voltage battery disconnect at the outlet, like this, and then using that outlet to charge a GoalZero Yeti 400.

The vehicle battery will power the fridge until it shuts off at 12V, then the Yeti 400 will power the battery. The Yeti 400 will otherwise always be charging, which is how you are supposed to maintain your yeti batteries. In addition I found some affordable 100W solar panels that I can use to charge the yeti.

Anyone have any thoughts?

I haven't been able to figure out what kind of duty cycle to expect on the fridge compressor. It is 7A max and the Yeti 400 has a 33Ah battery but I don't know how long to expect the fridge to run. I'm going to add the insulated cover for the fridge.

Also, Goal Zero said that the Yeti 400 would be fine to operate like this and said that the new lithium battery versions are launching March 1. If the lithium version isn't super expensive I'll get that, otherwise I hope it means the Yeti 400's go on sale.
 
Last edited:
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e60ral said:
Since apparently summer is coming fast here, I need to get something setup for the fridge.

I have a Dometic 40qt fridge and want something to help prolong the run time but don't want to spend the money on deep cycle batteries and new alternator.

I currently have an always-on 12V outlet installed in the back that I use to power the fridge. What I am planning on doing is adding a low-voltage battery disconnect at the outlet, like this, and then using that outlet to charge a GoalZero Yeti 400.

The vehicle battery will power the fridge until it shuts off at 12V, then the Yeti 400 will power the battery. The Yeti 400 will otherwise always be charging, which is how you are supposed to maintain your yeti batteries. In addition I found some affordable 100W solar panels that I can use to charge the yeti.

Anyone have any thoughts?

I haven't been able to figure out what kind of duty cycle to expect on the fridge compressor. It is 7A max and the Yeti 400 has a 33Ah battery but I don't know how long to expect the fridge to run. I'm going to add the insulated cover for the fridge.

Also, Goal Zero said that the Yeti 400 would be fine to operate like this and said that the new lithium battery versions are launching March 1. If the lithium version isn't super expensive I'll get that, otherwise I hope it means the Yeti 400's go on sale.
Click to expand...

Sub'd, I'm also currently thinking of buying a Yeti 400 for my runner, even though I don't have the always on receptacle. In for more info!!!:popcorn:
 
I have used my Yeti 400 like this for the last couple of years and it will work great. I use a Renogy 100w solar suitcase for those days when I wont be driving enough to replenish the yeti.
 
I used a Yeti in a camping trailer we had at my old job and that thing was pretty durable and could power the fridge plus some LED lights on the trailer for 2 days without a problem. I just don't recall how expensive they are though, and if there's a more affordable option.
 
If I use a 20% off REI coupon, the Yeti 400 will be $368 assuming prices don't change and I expect that they will go on sale when the lithium version launches next week. $50 for an automatic disconnect and misc. items, with taxes it should all be under $450.

A 100W solar panel should be about ~$100 (a bit more if you want one that is foldable)

The other options would be upgraded alternator and deep cycle battery, the same with dual battery, or something like an ArkPak 715 with a Group 31 battery but all of those options would be much more expensive.
 
I was thinking of doing a similar thing with either the GZ Yeti or the Anker Powerhouse. I like that the battery pack setup is more-or-less separate from the truck so you can either leave it plugged in somewhere and drive off or transfer it to another vehicle.

I wasn't sure that you could power the fridge and charge the battery pack simultaneously though.
 
This is the setup I am thinking long and hard about. It makes sense for me because I have a fleet of 4runners (2) that I would like to use the
ARB fridge in.
 
I've been eye balling a 400 for general vehicle and car camping use. I don't even have a fridge, but I think it would be nice for hanging lighting, charging devices, etc.

Can you explain more on how you'll wire it up with the disconnect and what kind of outlet you have in the back? As of right now, car electrical and battery stuff is so foreign to me. I want to figure it out though.
 
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jayhat said:
I've been eye balling a 400 for general vehicle and car camping use. I don't even have a fridge, but I think it would be nice for hanging lighting, charging devices, etc.
Click to expand...
I have a 150, for general camping that's probably what you need

Sent from my P00A using Tapatalk
 
WallyT4R said:
I say build your own so you can get way more than 33ah.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxQfc22vP64

and here is another that cost $950 but it's a solar generator and the price included solar panel cost. 110ah, ac/dc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=offgcMwuTGw

There are many examples of these that IMO are better than any goal zero product
Click to expand...

this is basically what the arkpak is, the downside is size (a less smart version of the arkpak)

the other downside with the first link specifically is that it doesn't have the smart charge controller and voltage protect that you get with the yeti
 
This is on my hot list for the '16 dividend splurge. Good for camping, and for emergency preparedness. No fridge for me, but campsite lights, and charging devices would be great.
 
I don't know if they have costco's everywhere in the US but I consistently see the yeti 400's for about $350 in Southern California with their road shows.
 
Ordered through ebay, free shipping to P.R., just hoping I won't receive an email saying the can't ship it. I'll keep you guys posted!!!
 
omaguz said:
Ordered through ebay, free shipping to P.R., just hoping I won't receive an email saying the can't ship it. I'll keep you guys posted!!!
Click to expand...

Just received an email confirming the payment went trough :whoo:

Now I have to order the GOAL ZERO 98043 8mm Adapter Cable via amazon.com

Now the wait begins!!!!:thumb:
 
So I priced out building something myself and the costs just don't work out, i can't get near the features for a lower cost. if i did away with the inverted (nice to have but not necessary) i could only get the price competitive with a larger battery if i cheaped out on the charge controller and low voltage disconnect and i didn't want to. I'd rather spend really not much more money and get an REI no questions asked 1 year return period as well as the manufacturer warranty. Ive had to deal with GoalZero support for my Yeti 1250 and they were very good to work with.


The thing that really tips the scale for the Yeti is that you can easily chain matching batteries. I think the 400 should be enough, but if not for probably less than $100 I could double the capacity (and chain as many as I wanted, really with the only downside being the charging capacity is capped at 120W). GoalZero mentions that you can chain another Yeti 400 but you can just chain a plain battery/batteries through the anderson plug and the charge controller will manage your battery bank
 
And the new lithium batteries are supposed to launch tomorrow, so expect some price drops. I'm waiting for my REI dividend and coupon to by mine.
 
I haven't decided if I want to go solar, I live downtown and park on the street and I think it will draw too much attention. With the yeti I can always add a 100w panel later for about $100

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 
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