Hey all. I had the adjustable 5100's put in up front and, of course, my abs/etc is now buzzing a bit at low speeds/etc. I found out that I need to do a zero-point calibration and the instructions seem pretty straightforward EXCEPT when you get to the part where, if you, like me, have the crawl-control, you need to do a bit more. See the instructions below and see why I am confused. If you look at the first image (perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor) you can see where it shows to turn the ignition switch off, then on, then off. All good. BUT, when you go to the next step (step 4, Perform Downhill Assist Control Calibration, the first thing it says is turn the ignition switch off, connect the two terminals (12 and 4) and then turn the downhill assist switch off (why would it be on, the ignition is still off), and then next it says to turn the ignition switch off...but where did it say to turn it on!? This is why I am confused. Is it obvious...am I missing something? Thanks!
Zero Point Calibration question
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oljedi11950
New member
Shouldn't have to do zpc AT ALL , whomever stretched your abs line need to repair or replace !
Figured it out
Thanks for the thoughts but I figured it out. First, yes, I had to do it to eliminate my system from buzzing. I realized (after posting my question) that I don’t have the downhill assist control, I only have crawl control. So I could ignore the section that was confusing me. I did the clear and calibration, no problem. But as the first page in the instructions say (paraphrasing): ‘If you have downhill ascent control or crawl control you must do steps 4 and/or 5 or the skid indicator light will remain on’. And yes, after I did the reset and zero calibration, the skid light stayed on, so I had to do the crawl-control calibration.
Thanks for the thoughts but I figured it out. First, yes, I had to do it to eliminate my system from buzzing. I realized (after posting my question) that I don’t have the downhill assist control, I only have crawl control. So I could ignore the section that was confusing me. I did the clear and calibration, no problem. But as the first page in the instructions say (paraphrasing): ‘If you have downhill ascent control or crawl control you must do steps 4 and/or 5 or the skid indicator light will remain on’. And yes, after I did the reset and zero calibration, the skid light stayed on, so I had to do the crawl-control calibration.
sandcrawler
Senior Member
glad you figured it out. yes, you have to complete ALL steps in order for the ZPC to be accepted by the system; that means Crawl Control for models that have it, and DAC for those that don't. here's the best explanation of the process for those who may still need this information...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...celeration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html
sandcrawler
Senior Member
the steps for resetting DAC or Crawl Control are required to complete. see above.
you don't HAVE to do a ZPC after lifting unless you find that the VSC/TRAC systems have become overly sensitive/intrusive because their baseline (zero point) is no longer true after having lifted the vehicle.
again, see above. you're thinking of the post-lift christmas tree lights when lines are stretched or broken during install... OP is referring to VSC/TRAC kicking on needlessly (and frighteningly!) after lifting due to the system's baseline calibration values no longer being correct.
oljedi11950
New member
[MENTION=29376]sandcrawler[/MENTION] got that part but why would adjusting 51s set this off , sorry for MY not understanding ?
sandcrawler
Senior Member
altering the suspension/geometry/ride height can introduce a condition where the baseline "zero point" values for the VSC system are no longer "true"/correct because your 4Runner no longer sits/rides in the same way it did before the suspension change(s). this can needlessly trigger the system when it's not warranted. it can be scary, honestly. :lookout:
i had to do a ZPC after my lift. others have as well, but not always. make sense?
Now that I've had a day....
I did the zero-point calibration last night but didn't drive much after that (was close to home when I did it). Today I drove around some more and noticed that, while the vsc is barely coming on anywhere near as it did after the lift and before the calibration, it still came on when I was at around 25-35mph, going straight, under partial throttle. I will probably drive around 'as is' for a few more days and if this doesn't improve I will just do the calibration again. Once it's done once it's easy to do again.
What really surprised me is that the person who did my front lift didn't mention this potential issue. I'll assume they didn't know about it so I emailed them about it so they can educate themselves for future lifts.
*I used 2 paper clips to make the connection and just threw them in my center console so I can do it again as/when needed. The hardest part, I find, is finding a completely level road that's long enough to drive-off and maintain 25mph+ for 10 seconds. I did the calibration at a large loading facility where the docks are perfectly level. I did it at night when there were no trucks in the bays.
I did the zero-point calibration last night but didn't drive much after that (was close to home when I did it). Today I drove around some more and noticed that, while the vsc is barely coming on anywhere near as it did after the lift and before the calibration, it still came on when I was at around 25-35mph, going straight, under partial throttle. I will probably drive around 'as is' for a few more days and if this doesn't improve I will just do the calibration again. Once it's done once it's easy to do again.
What really surprised me is that the person who did my front lift didn't mention this potential issue. I'll assume they didn't know about it so I emailed them about it so they can educate themselves for future lifts.
*I used 2 paper clips to make the connection and just threw them in my center console so I can do it again as/when needed. The hardest part, I find, is finding a completely level road that's long enough to drive-off and maintain 25mph+ for 10 seconds. I did the calibration at a large loading facility where the docks are perfectly level. I did it at night when there were no trucks in the bays.