3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos
- Thread starter mtbtim
- Start date
mtbtim
Elite Member
30,000 Mile Service Video
Hey Guys and Gals,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I got another video for you. We call it a 30,000 mile Service because these are things you would commonly do at this mile interval unless you're using synthetic fluids. We learned on this video to not rely solely on my headlamp as a lighting source so some of the footage came out pretty dark. Where it was really bad, like the part where I'm changing the oil filter, we added some footage to make up for what you couldn't see.
This would be a good video for those that are new to wrenching on their trucks and want to start off with simple things like fluid changes.
Here it is and Enjoy the Show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a81i1Cayf_I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hey Guys and Gals,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I got another video for you. We call it a 30,000 mile Service because these are things you would commonly do at this mile interval unless you're using synthetic fluids. We learned on this video to not rely solely on my headlamp as a lighting source so some of the footage came out pretty dark. Where it was really bad, like the part where I'm changing the oil filter, we added some footage to make up for what you couldn't see.
This would be a good video for those that are new to wrenching on their trucks and want to start off with simple things like fluid changes.
Here it is and Enjoy the Show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a81i1Cayf_I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
mtbtim
Elite Member
3rd Gen 4runner Suspension Lift (Coils and Shock Replacement)
Hey Y'all,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did a favor for member [MENTION=92488]Jbot[/MENTION] and installed a lift for him. It was a mild lift so no need for extended brake lines, diff drop, panhard drop or extended bump stops. Regardless, if you're thinking of adding a lift to your truck or just replace worn out OEM components, the information we provide will help you out.
Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0HJx6HH2yno" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hey Y'all,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did a favor for member [MENTION=92488]Jbot[/MENTION] and installed a lift for him. It was a mild lift so no need for extended brake lines, diff drop, panhard drop or extended bump stops. Regardless, if you're thinking of adding a lift to your truck or just replace worn out OEM components, the information we provide will help you out.
Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0HJx6HH2yno" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Herculean T4R
New member
Tim,
Thanks for taking time to make these videos. Your videos are very helpful. Keep them coming. I have bookmarked all your videos.
Thanks!
Thanks for taking time to make these videos. Your videos are very helpful. Keep them coming. I have bookmarked all your videos.
Thanks!
Mindomission
New member
Sub'd. Thanks for the time and effort!
theesotericone
New member
I'm dropping a 3" lift in next weekend. Since I got my rig a little over a month ago I've watched and read just about every article and vid on the net. Then this pops up. You have impeccable timing. Thanks for the vid and for taking the time to do it right.
mtbtim
Elite Member
3rd Gen 4runner Brake Fluid Flush/Bleed
Hey Dudes, Sean and I did a brake fluid flush on Sean's rig. The FSM does say to immerse your drain tube into some brake fluid and I've also seen other videos like from Chris Fix and Eric the Car Guy who say this step is necessary. I had never heard of this before doing the flush on Sean's rig and I honestly don't think it's necessary. If you do everything correctly, you should not pull any air into your brake system. My thinking is this, if it were actually crucial to do this step, than you would technically have to start off with your drain tube evacuated of air as well.
Anyway, I would like to hear some comments regarding the whole drain tube immersed in brake fluid. I've never done this and I've always had good results with my brake bleeds so I'm taking the position it's not necessary. Maybe it's more of a back-up in case the person doing the brake pedal pumping lifts up on the pedal before you had a chance to close the bleeder.
Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rnyK3V-OGn4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hey Dudes, Sean and I did a brake fluid flush on Sean's rig. The FSM does say to immerse your drain tube into some brake fluid and I've also seen other videos like from Chris Fix and Eric the Car Guy who say this step is necessary. I had never heard of this before doing the flush on Sean's rig and I honestly don't think it's necessary. If you do everything correctly, you should not pull any air into your brake system. My thinking is this, if it were actually crucial to do this step, than you would technically have to start off with your drain tube evacuated of air as well.
Anyway, I would like to hear some comments regarding the whole drain tube immersed in brake fluid. I've never done this and I've always had good results with my brake bleeds so I'm taking the position it's not necessary. Maybe it's more of a back-up in case the person doing the brake pedal pumping lifts up on the pedal before you had a chance to close the bleeder.
Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rnyK3V-OGn4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
LittleCaesar
New member
I like the fan clutch video. Always thorough. And yea, it was bad. One thing that I might add:
1. To make it easier one should loosen the drive belts first, thus relieving any tension on the fan and the pulleys. This isn't necessary, and takes longer but makes the job easier getting the nuts off IMHO. When you decide to tackle the timing belt this way will be easier.
1. To make it easier one should loosen the drive belts first, thus relieving any tension on the fan and the pulleys. This isn't necessary, and takes longer but makes the job easier getting the nuts off IMHO. When you decide to tackle the timing belt this way will be easier.
Alelahanen
New member
Hey Tim, I love your idea. The key to "finding" the videos is in the title and the body of the text. A good test is to google some videos you have done and see what comes up.
Last edited:
mtbtim
Elite Member
Howdy Dudes and Dudettes,
Here's a video on doing a complete Automatic Transmission Fluid Flush without any special machines. I borrowed this idea from a good write-up I found but now you'll have a video to go with it.
Disregard the beginning of the video where it says Coolant Temps and Fan Clutch Replacement. That was a mistake and I didn't want to bother fixing it and spending another 2-3 hours uploading the video to YouTube.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Here's a video on doing a complete Automatic Transmission Fluid Flush without any special machines. I borrowed this idea from a good write-up I found but now you'll have a video to go with it.
Disregard the beginning of the video where it says Coolant Temps and Fan Clutch Replacement. That was a mistake and I didn't want to bother fixing it and spending another 2-3 hours uploading the video to YouTube.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
ZionXIX
New member
Awesome tutorial. Cant wait to try this! I have a 1996 with no trans temp gauge. I have seen some people that added a temp kit with what look like a brass T-fitting for the probe. Has anyone ever thought of add a T-fitting for doing this flush? I thought about adding a 4-way fitting for the probe and the opposite side could serve as the drain so you would not have disconnect any lines.
Anyway thanks for the video.
Anyway thanks for the video.
mtbtim
Elite Member
That would be a pretty slick idea. The trans hose connected to the radiator cooler can definitely fight you a bit and your idea would eliminate that.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Diagnosing High Coolant Temps
Ok Dudes and Dudettes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] (aka Sean) has been a video editing machine lately. He just finished another video that I made helping out [MENTION=110858]JoeBand[/MENTION] fix his high coolant temps.
The title of this one is "Diagnosing High Coolant Temps". In this video, you'll learn the common causes of why our rigs can run a little hot and how to fix it. Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/A8OTtggtQnc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Ok Dudes and Dudettes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] (aka Sean) has been a video editing machine lately. He just finished another video that I made helping out [MENTION=110858]JoeBand[/MENTION] fix his high coolant temps.
The title of this one is "Diagnosing High Coolant Temps". In this video, you'll learn the common causes of why our rigs can run a little hot and how to fix it. Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/A8OTtggtQnc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Wow, I didn't realize you had so many videos up now. Well done, if I had the time and patience to record the repairs I've done I could add to this... but I don't lol.
If I could add a suggestion to this, you can also bleed the brakes with the engine on and running. I do have a 98, which has a different brake booster than yours though. The pump does not run at On, only after starting the engine. However, once it's on you can press the brake and then, keeping pressure on the pedal, pump it continually and it will cause a constant flow of fluid that does NOT suck in air or old fluid. I can bleed one line in about 10 seconds this way, all 4 goes super fast. I agree completely on the video and even more so if you do it the way I do, keep the master cylinder reservoir full or else!
I do understand the submersing the other end in oil to keep it from sucking in air part, but at least on Toyotas it has never been an issue for me so I also do not do it.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Alternator Brushes Replacement
Dudes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] has been a Video Editing Machine lately. Sean and I did an Alternator Brushes Replacement on my rig yesterday and he spent most of the day today editing the thing and getting it out.
So, here it is. Enjoy the Show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/71_kBhg6_-A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Dudes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] has been a Video Editing Machine lately. Sean and I did an Alternator Brushes Replacement on my rig yesterday and he spent most of the day today editing the thing and getting it out.
So, here it is. Enjoy the Show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/71_kBhg6_-A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
mtbtim
Elite Member
AC Condenser Cleaning
I got the idea for this video from Ol' Woody [MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION]. I learned from him that cleaning your AC Condenser gives you better AC performance and he's absolutely right.
So, in this video I show the cleaning of the condenser with the product Woody recommended that you can buy at your local Home Depot.
AC-Safe Air Conditioner Coil Foaming Cleaner-AC-920 - The Home Depot
Here's the video. Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kZRGlR6FTy4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I got the idea for this video from Ol' Woody [MENTION=115590]StreetCreeper[/MENTION]. I learned from him that cleaning your AC Condenser gives you better AC performance and he's absolutely right.
So, in this video I show the cleaning of the condenser with the product Woody recommended that you can buy at your local Home Depot.
AC-Safe Air Conditioner Coil Foaming Cleaner-AC-920 - The Home Depot
Here's the video. Enjoy the show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kZRGlR6FTy4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
StreetCreeper
New member
As always, great video Tim!
I'd like to add a few things to this. First, if anyone who is considering doing this and is lazy like me, or simply doesn't want to risk breaking any of the tabs holding the grill in, you can also do it without removing the grill. You just have to get all flexy and find different angles to shoot the foam into your condensor. Probably not quite as thorough as doing it with the grill removed, but it's still pretty damn good.
Second thing is that anybody who is replacing their radiator should seriously consider cleaning the a/c condenser while the radiator is out of the truck. This will allow you to hit the condensor from the back side with the water hose after the foam has done its thing and you are ready to rinse. This is better since the bugs and dirt are wedged in from the front — so water from the back will easily push them back the way they came.
Lastly, one of the biggest reasons to clean the condensor is because it lowers pressure in the compressor. When the condensor is dirty/blocked, it's ability to transfer heat to the surrounding environment is impeded. This un-shed heat remains in the condensor and decreases the system efficiency by forcing the system to work harder. So cleaning the condensor reduces the heat and decreases pressure thus helping the a/c system as a whole to function better and last longer.
All this for just a few bucks and a few minutes of your time.
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