This sounds dumb asking because it should be simple...how do you tighten the top nut when installing new rear struts? I'm swapping stocks for Bilstein 5100s and when I put the shock through the two epdm bushings + washers that it came with, there's not any thread on top for the nut to thread on. Have tried jacking up the rear axle. Next move would be to shave down the new top bushing but I don't want to ruin something new. Double checked too, new shock is right part number. New bushings just seam too thick.
Rear Strut Top Nut Install Issues
- Thread starter dgbull3
- Start date
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Crikeymike
Senior Member
Compare the OE bushings to the new ones. Also make sure the washer orientation is correct, and there wasn't a washer left in place when you removed the old ones (adding thickness).
Tried with a jack under the axle and compressing it, no luck. The new bushings in the kit are thicker.
I've pulled off the 2x other washers, but there's still a wavy one underneath the mounting hole. Is this one supposed to stay in? Looks like it's meant to retain the bushing. It didn't fall out when I removed the old strut so I thought it was something actually part of the frame where it mounts. Parts diagram show's it as P/N 48597A in the attached pic. I also attached a pic of the setup.
I've pulled off the 2x other washers, but there's still a wavy one underneath the mounting hole. Is this one supposed to stay in? Looks like it's meant to retain the bushing. It didn't fall out when I removed the old strut so I thought it was something actually part of the frame where it mounts. Parts diagram show's it as P/N 48597A in the attached pic. I also attached a pic of the setup.
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Drunner97
New member
Pretty sure that's your problem. The bushing should be flush in the mount.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Yeah, one of the washers should have a raised lip I believe to fit into the hole on the frame, so that the stud of the shock stays centered in that mount.
blackoutt
New member
You need to remove ALL of the old parts first, that mount is just a flat plate with a hole in it, shouldn't be any washer looking things left. Once that's removed you should have no problem installing your new hardware per the instructions with them (still might just barely catch the first thread). Also don't overtighten, just squish the rubber bushings a little until they are domed washer size and a few threads are showing above the nut. Over tightening will cause the rubbers to split and lose their height making your upper shock mount just flop around.
Billynath1988
Senior Member
I ran into this issue as well. Your truck had xreas originally? this is part of the frame.. I had to shave down the top bushing until i can get the nut started on the threads.
toy4runner
New member
I ran in the same issue. You need to take that washer off they just got rust in place.
toy4runner
New member
This are the components come out see attached picture.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
flipflopnfly
New member
Agree the lower wavy washer has to come out and will come out. I had XREAS also. Then make sure you get the new washers/bushings centered correctly and not cockeyed before tightening, and anti-seize is your best friend. Congrats for getting the top nut out, these 4Runner top nuts were the worst I've ever had to remove.
flipflopnfly
New member
That has to be removed, it's not part of the frame.
Billynath1988
Senior Member
Are you sure? I put pry bars on mine and chisels and it didn't budge on both sides even with pb blasting.. I think its a plate the xreas sat on. Not to say it shouldnt come out.. but ive been running the bushings with it for a while no issue.. probably cut it out next time around.
flipflopnfly
New member
If your mount is working that's all that counts. Wavy ones came out on the 2008's XREAS. I was looking at them thinking "those are pretty weird". I just now looked at my washers/bushings parts bin and they aren't there. I think I tossed them because they didn't seem to be repurposeable.
I bet they're different because the XREAS shocks can't spin, they have to be orientated a certain way and can't spin because of the hydraulic hoses.
Update: Got it off eventually...soaked it in PB while I worked on other stuff, then took a long flat head and wedged it between the washer and frame. Smacked the crap out of it with a hammer and it finally went flying out. New shock installed easily from there.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
