2000 limited SleepyDad build

AC clutch assembly

the bearing in my AC cluth assembly was making some jet engine types of noises. bearing was toast toast toast.
<a href="https://imgur.com/uRAoZba"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/uRAoZbal.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

got a small pile of parts.
<a href="https://imgur.com/7EoijSV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/7EoijSVl.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

comparison of old and new parts... the old clutch was so worn away I can't even believe it still was working, but it was and making a ton of noise.
<a href="https://imgur.com/Tad28IS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Tad28ISl.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/H43Rh3Q"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/H43Rh3Ql.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

ok finally got the stator off what a freaking nightmare that thing is, if the compressor was out lemon squeezy but my god, I think my neck is broken.
<a href="https://imgur.com/kG1Uwzt"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kG1Uwztl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and the last item that needs to come off is the little screw holding the wire harness onto the compressor

<a href="https://imgur.com/TcRG1jt"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/TcRG1jtl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/u7sWumX"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/u7sWumXl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

defeated by 93319-15008 screw, w/washer

given the fact that I'm a complete idiot and can pretty much screw up any thing, I have a large supply of screw extractors and self help books that keep telling me mistakes are OK.

<a href="https://imgur.com/1fm8AyO"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/1fm8AyOm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/UGiVzLW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/UGiVzLWm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Now I just have to put it back together and hope it all works out, I know it will not but I know some people succeed so maybe it will randomly happen to me?

Back door Garnish

Toyota Part No.: 76825-35020 PROTECTOR, BACK DOOR OUTSIDE GARNISH

I figured this should be easy right... ha yea right. you have to take the back door 1/2 apart to get at it and loosen it so you can get the new one on. also broke some door clips so had to wait for them, also did some dynamat on the back door wherever I could fit some, the back hatch feels so much more solid now. dynamat is your friend.

the old one was in pretty bad shape, multiple pieces, think the previous owner used chewing gum to stick it back on.
<a href="https://imgur.com/rs8F1vo"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/rs8F1vom.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

but after messing around getting to the back on the Garnish and replacing it... I can now stop cringing each time I open the back hatch.
<a href="https://imgur.com/OW3YAtf"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/OW3YAtfm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Good job on that garnish

Did it come with glue ready to stick on or did you have to glue it on; and if you had to glue it, what did you use?

I'm ready to do this again myself

octanejunkie said:

Good job on that garnish

Did it come with glue ready to stick on or did you have to glue it on; and if you had to glue it, what did you use?

I'm ready to do this again myself

Click to expand...

I should have taken a picture of it before I stuck it on, it came with sticky stuff already on it, just peel and stick.

just getting enough room to get the old gunk off and work with the plastic garnish plate, sucks. I loosened everything enough to get about 1/2" of room behind it. I was amazed I did not break any of the little clips holding the garnish plate on.

Well, the trick is to remove the real license plate bezel from the hatchback, then it's easy Lol

I've taken mine off twice, it's not that bad. The trick is to drop the rear window 2-3" so you can get a wrench on the top bolts that hold the handle, the rest you do with the window closed

Thanks for the info on the garnish, I've added it to my camelback cart :thumb:

Great stuff so far! I can't wait to see more of this.

The Great Rear disc brake conversion

have been pulling parts and cleaning gunk off stuff.

thanks to others I decided to use the mustang GT calipers(94-04 Mustang Gt), because of the ebrake provision. I did like the idea of using 4th gen rotors so we will see how that works out. I also need to fabricate some brackets and since I'm using 4th gen rotors I'm guessing these will be one of kind custom jobs.

I decided to collect a bunch of things so I could work in my shop over the winter. it might take a bit to get this working how I would like. unfortunately my mind has the concept of a perfect like factory brake setup, and... well.

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cR9MwkjO_ZY" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

first I found a great looking rear axle housing, took it to the coin car wash with a big bottle of dawn dishwahsing soap and some brushy brushy. nice and clean.
<a href="https://imgur.com/8K1Wo4f"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8K1Wo4fl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Then I pulled a set of axles out of a 2002, pressed everything apart and cleaned them up. I also had a new set of bearings waiting just in case, so now they will get a home. also wire wheeled the bearing cups clean and will put a couple of coats of cold galvanizing paint on them.
<a href="https://imgur.com/TxQNEs5"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/TxQNEs5l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/LetKlJp"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/LetKlJpl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/RBkJpmb"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/RBkJpmbl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/aRCbql0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/aRCbql0l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

next I picked up a set of 4th gen rear rotors and some mustang GT calipers.
<a href="https://imgur.com/NlESPjJ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/NlESPjJl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/BwjFhjl"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/BwjFhjll.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

test fit... everything fits smooth like baby bottoms. now I just need to paint and put everything back into place.
<a href="https://imgur.com/WLHphmS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/WLHphmSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

made some good progress got both axle/seals/bearings/retainers/abs tone rings re-pressed and mounted up
<a href="https://imgur.com/wNqB9Ie"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wNqB9Iel.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

now for the first question will this all fit with my wheels? not a ton of room but it should all fit.
<a href="https://imgur.com/7yvLygW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/7yvLygWl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a><a href="https://imgur.com/woHUKpR"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/woHUKpRl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

rear brake caliper mounting bracket design

Ok so I think the custom mounting bracket is key. I also spent some time trying to figure out how thick I should make it. there is some pretty substantial maths behind all that safety stuff but I found this little gem out there and needless to say, wow.

https://digitalcommons.cwu.edu/cgi/...om/&httpsredir=1&article=1008&context=cwu_met

so after reading up on that stuff, I love that kind of stuff.

I came up with a bracket like this... I decided to try it in 1/8" hardboard. hardboard is substantial enough so I could nail down the holes and clearance stuff without having to worry about the template bending.
<a href="https://imgur.com/qvWQV4A"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qvWQV4Al.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

so I was able to get it mounted with the mustang calipers and I think it's going to work out. Now I just need to make some 3/8" templates, ultimately after reading the safety stuff I'm going with 3/8 1020 steel. I will have to shim on the caliper mounts about 1/8" but that should be pretty easy. I could use some washers but... I'm not super fond of stacks of washers. I have done that kind of thing before and it's usually a pain in the butt if you ever have to take it apart. so my goal is no washers, but I'm sure I will have to shim just a bit to get the caliper centered correctly on the rotor.

<a href="https://imgur.com/gaV1z5o"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/gaV1z5ol.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Ok finished up the 3/8 A25 steel version of the caliper mounting bracket on both sides. works great. 9/64" centered the ford mustang GT caliper on the 4th gen rotor perfectly.
<a href="https://imgur.com/4HgA6lw"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/4HgA6lwl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Now I just need to wire wheel them up and rattle can them, and of course figure out brake lines and eBrake cables.
<a href="https://imgur.com/6sNtPLA"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6sNtPLAl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I quick wire brushed and painted the brackets, also ground out some custom spacers instead of washers. the washer are 4mm thick and kind of round like a washer. I will heat them up and drop them in some oil to give them some protection.
<a href="https://imgur.com/J1IjCog"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/J1IjCogl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

rear brake lines

Now that the brackets are set I can do lines.

Started with the 3way and will work out.
<a href="https://imgur.com/Tc7rY0r"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Tc7rY0rl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

picked up 2 new factory lines and will cut them down and re-flare.
driver side
<a href="https://imgur.com/kMbLTj0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kMbLTj0l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
passenger side
<a href="https://imgur.com/BA5PzS3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/BA5PzS3l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

custom banjo lines
<a href="https://imgur.com/cnQMOVI"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cnQMOVIl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/vBZHCXv"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/vBZHCXvl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

this little sucker right here is like sweet buttermilk pancakes and fresh Canadian maple syrup after a good night of drinking and a 3 hour nap. what ever order you want it's all good. I will never ever flare another brake line without it again. because she is now all mine. I like tools.
<a href="https://imgur.com/YWfvsYi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/YWfvsYil.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

passenger side all hooked up
<a href="https://imgur.com/87fCi3N"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/87fCi3Nl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


note: when I re-did my master seals, I noticed Toyota changed the seals, they now only put one, not 2.
you can see the change here in old VS new; old on top, new on bottom. compare and contrast.

the new master works much better than my old one... probably because it's new and the other one was 18 years old and starting to slowly fall apart.

<a href="https://imgur.com/pkvPdXn"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/pkvPdXnl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

champion all aluminum CC1998

I have been eyeing this thing for a long time now and once it hit $200 on ebay I just tossed my money @ it.

it does go into a 4runner but... of course some modification was needed, because they advertise "direct fit" you know it's not going to be "direct fit"

after running with this for a bit I want to add the radiator works great, I'm pretty critical of the rivnuts they use and the fitment in the video but so far the performance of this radiator is excellent. it does require +1 gallon of coolant. I would do it again but I'm still miffed they advertise direct fitment.


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Awesome rear end work!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

damn, lots of investment in your project! looking really good!

power steering gasket kit

my power steering pump was leaking just a tiny bit, not really enough to be trouble but... figured I would take advantage of the brutal cold and do some inside work.

since my lines were hard and no longer flexible I figured do it now while you have the pump off. so I also grabbed some ebay lines.

I should also do the steering rack bushings I guess... will order them and do the whole shebang once it warms up past -10 F

<a href="https://imgur.com/UbeDR3H"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/UbeDR3Hl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/uDfODp3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/uDfODp3l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

sleepydad said:

I did a very long and detailed vid on this one.

https://youtu.be/aW5FmIQCk5A

and an extra truck wire part, a reddit user requested so... I do.

https://youtu.be/fCHFLedNpg8

Click to expand...

Hey Sleepydad, did you have any trouble with 'double mounting' the add a fuses? I already have 2 add a fuses in the cabin fusebox, and i'm not sure how much that can handle.

Longhorn425 said:

Hey Sleepydad, did you have any trouble with 'double mounting' the add a fuses? I already have 2 add a fuses in the cabin fusebox, and i'm not sure how much that can handle.

Click to expand...

No it seems fine. It’s realy the only extra thing I have wired. Unless your running a blender to crush ice and make margaritas? How many extra amps are pulling via add a fuse?

sleepydad said:

No it seems fine. It’s realy the only extra thing I have wired. Unless your running a blender to crush ice and make margaritas? How many extra amps are pulling via add a fuse?

Click to expand...

How else am I gonna drink on the beach?

And not more than 7.5 amp

Longhorn425 said:

How else am I gonna drink on the beach?

And not more than 7.5 amp

Click to expand...

I did put an amp meter with both seats going on high but I can’t remember exact numbers. I think I called it out in the vid. I think 14 amps was the max draw I noticed.

So I filled the blank space space I had. It’s all fuse protected so if you exceed it, your going to find out pretty quick.

Hell a guy needs his margaritas.

Impressive build - Good source of info for interior work.

sleepydad said:

<a href="https://imgur.com/J1IjCog"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/J1IjCogl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Click to expand...

How did you end up cutting this out? Looks good.

thenightman said:

How did you end up cutting this out? Looks good.

Click to expand...

I chewed it out like a beaver. Had the dentist put in carbide molars.

I used a combination of drill press, 4 1/2 grinder cut off wheels, and grinding wheels, 12" disc sander and a spindle sander.

I would really really love to do a CAD model and share it. thinking about doing it but it will take me some time.

I did shoot some video's and I guess maybe it's time to upload them and include a link here. it would be helpful I think.

Took me maybe 2 hours each to cut them out and shape things. it helped that I did the templates and had an extra bearing cup laying around so I was able to get the axle mounting holes dead nuts on by using it as a guide.

if I had a plasma cutter or milling machine I could produce these for maybe $20 each, I'm surprised nobody has put a kit together for 3rd gens yet. almost any of the muscle cars have kits available via wilwood now days.