3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

Tranfer Case Output Shaft Seal Replacement

If you found you have a leak at the back of your transfer case, it might be due to a worn output shaft seal. This video will show you how to replace it.

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I don't see brake booster listed. I plan to use this vid on my next fix for my 3rd gen T4R.

YouTube

It looks like Ahmed needs to invest in some more tools. Do yourself a favor and don't use vice grips to loosen the brake lines on the master cylinder. The appropriate tool for this is a flare nut wrench also known as a line wrench.
 
can anyone help me? im doing the timing job and stripped the rear bolt to the timing belt tensioner. I have DOUCED the bolt in pb, used a bolt extractor, it just keeps slipping.
 
Hey Dudes,

If you were looking for a comprehensive tutorial on how to do a rear brake job on your 3rd Gen, we've got it right here.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Hi Timmy,

GREAT VIDEO!! We will definitely use this as a go-by when we replace the shoes on our '98... Unfortunately I didn't see this video till after I ordered aftermarket shoes (which did not come with the C-clips).. So I'm looking up Toyota part numbers, so that I can order those separately, and I'm finding two different numbers:

90213-07010 - Washer, C (For Rear Brake) T=1.6
90213-06013 - Washer, C (For Rear Brake)

Both show a need quantity of two and a package quantity of one. I was hoping you could maybe shed some light on which ones I should order.

Thanks in advance, and apologies if this question has already been addressed.
 
Hi Timmy,

GREAT VIDEO!! We will definitely use this as a go-by when we replace the shoes on our '98... Unfortunately I didn't see this video till after I ordered aftermarket shoes (which did not come with the C-clips).. So I'm looking up Toyota part numbers, so that I can order those separately, and I'm finding two different numbers:

90213-07010 - Washer, C (For Rear Brake) T=1.6
90213-06013 - Washer, C (For Rear Brake)

Both show a need quantity of two and a package quantity of one. I was hoping you could maybe shed some light on which ones I should order.

Thanks in advance, and apologies if this question has already been addressed.

I've never tried to source those c-clips separately. I bought Toyota OEM shoes for my 98 rig and it comes with the necessary clips.
 
I've never tried to source those c-clips separately. I bought Toyota OEM shoes for my 98 rig and it comes with the necessary clips.

Ahh I see, well thanks all the same... By the way I truly appreciate the excellent and detailed video library you have produced!! You've been a huge help to us already!
 
I recently bought a 2002 4Runner SR5 and all windows, including rear and sunroof does not work. The door locks on the switches work. Also, the speedometer, and horn does not work at all. Can someone please guide me to the right path. I just put in a new master switch and still no luck.


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I recently bought a 2002 4Runner SR5 and all windows, including rear and sunroof does not work. The door locks on the switches work. Also, the speedometer, and horn does not work at all. Can someone please guide me to the right path. I just put in a new master switch and still no luck.


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Sounds like there's some major electrical issues with this rig you bought. Quite possibly it's the reason it was sold. You can start easy by checking fuses but something tells me blown fuses isn't going to be your problem. I'd start looking for signs there was an electrical fire.

Did you ask the previous owner what was up with all these electrical issues?
 
Sounds like there's some major electrical issues with this rig you bought. Quite possibly it's the reason it was sold. You can start easy by checking fuses but something tells me blown fuses isn't going to be your problem. I'd start looking for signs there was an electrical fire.



Did you ask the previous owner what was up with all these electrical issues?



Thank you for your response. After removing the panels from around the steering wheel and stereo console, I found a lot of wire that were cut off and taped. The rear window switch is not even connected. I could not even find the wire connection that goes to the rear window switch. Does anyone have a diagram to show which wire goes where?


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Thank you for your response. After removing the panels from around the steering wheel and stereo console, I found a lot of wire that were cut off and taped. The rear window switch is not even connected. I could not even find the wire connection that goes to the rear window switch. Does anyone have a diagram to show which wire goes where?


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2db061fddea544ce8d4076d9dee7faa5.jpg
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...CBI Front bumper install...

Just curious, is there enough room where that blinker hole is to enlarge it to accommodate a typical 6" oval trucker light? I was wanting something brighter that would be SAE compliant as a turn signal instead of just a clearance light. I didn't know if that plate would be big enough or if there were any obstructions behind it. According to some web surfing it looks like the hole for the grommet would need to be 6-3/4" wide by 2-1/2" tall.
trailer-light-oval-hole-template_170516.jpg


For fitting something like these style (horizontally of course), but in amber:

led-box-truck-tail-light-reverse-light-rubber-gromit.jpg
 
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Rusty Suspention Componets

Today I tried to replace the struts on my recently bought 2001 Toyota 4runner. I got two of the nuts off the top but the third one closest to engine is stuck. The only wrench I can get on it slips and their is not enough room to get a socket on it. Also I need to replace the rubber boot in between the tire rod and power steering rack but the cotter pin in the castle nut is so rusted when I try to take it out the part that stick out just disintegrates. Has anyone had this experience and any suggestions? Thanks
 
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Thank you for your response. After removing the panels from around the steering wheel and stereo console, I found a lot of wire that were cut off and taped. The rear window switch is not even connected. I could not even find the wire connection that goes to the rear window switch. Does anyone have a diagram to show which wire goes where?


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So it wasn't a fire but an idiot former owner that screwed things up. Message [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]. He's really good with electrical problems like this. Make sure to give him your year and model of 3rd Gen you own.
 
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Today I tried to replace the struts on my recently bought 2001 Toyota 4runner. I got two of the nuts off the top but the third one closest to engine is stuck. The only wrench I can get on it slips and their is not enough room to get a socket on it. Also I need to replace the rubber boot in between the tire rod and power steering rack but the cotter pin in the castle nut is so rusted when I try to take it out the part that stick out just disintegrates. Has anyone had this experience and any suggestions? Thanks

I think a lot of people have had this experience, especially people who live in areas where they salt the roads.

For the cotter pin, if it's rusted away then it's nut going to stop you spinning out the castle nut. To get the remaining cotter pin out of the hole in the tie rod spindle, you could use a thin punch or screwdriver to knock it out. If that doesn't work, take a small drill bit and drill it out.

As for the nut that won't come off, you can try some penetrating oil and some heat and see if you can grab onto it with a vice grips to spin it off. That back nut is hard to get to but I think you'd be able to come in from the top with a good size pair of vice grips. Treat it with a few applications of penetrating oil like Kroil, then take a small butane torch and heat up the nut really good. With doing those two things, I think you'll be able to spin it off.
 

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