DIY: Ultra Low Profile Custom Rack / Crossbars for OEM TE Roof Rails
- Thread starter Terrapod
- Start date
I’m still getting all that together but it shouldn’t be far off.
I want to provide a good value to folks while making it worth the effort. Finding the right components at an affordable price has been harder than I anticipated. I’ll keep this thread updated with where I’m at.
I want to provide a good value to folks while making it worth the effort. Finding the right components at an affordable price has been harder than I anticipated. I’ll keep this thread updated with where I’m at.
2nd Chance
New member
Very nice set up. I am going to have to show this to a buddy that just bought a 4Runner as he is looking for a nice set of cross bars
jasxn
Member
I've been following this thread since last year but completely forgot about it.
if you ever do decide to get these mass produced. even if its just the mounting plates (as i can source the bars through the vendor in the first post) I would be interested in a set of 3 or 4 plates. doesnt even need to be powder coated.
thanks for the time you've invested in this as i wouldnt even know how to begin a project like this other than free-handing a drawing.
I had ordered yet another set of T slot nuts thinking they would work. They won’t, which is an issue. I could use unistrut nuts and cut the springs off but that is substandard and I wouldn’t want to put my name on that. I’ve finally figured out a way around it that will provide a great solution. I’m going t9 have to fab something to make it work but it shouldn’t be a big deal.
My first “run” should be 140 brackets and I’d like to have those done in a few weeks. I’ll keep this updated. I’ve got my ducks in a row now so it should be fairly quick.
My first “run” should be 140 brackets and I’d like to have those done in a few weeks. I’ll keep this updated. I’ve got my ducks in a row now so it should be fairly quick.
@808Ketih and others...
If I had the measurements or the differences I could let you know. The hard parts are solved and I think adapting to other vehicles might be easy. I just need to know what to do.
Also, I solved my last problem last night. I have that parts on order to validate. Also, I have a friend that is a materials and corrosion engineer. I going to validate my hardware selection and I should be set.
I have to add up everything but I think a set of two brackets with hardware will be in the 50 dollar range. The crossbar can be ordered elsewhere for cheaper so that problem is already solved. The pieces will be raw aluminum with laser cut edges. I think I've got a line on a good powder coating shop. If someone wants that I can probably arrange it but it will be more.
If I had the measurements or the differences I could let you know. The hard parts are solved and I think adapting to other vehicles might be easy. I just need to know what to do.
Also, I solved my last problem last night. I have that parts on order to validate. Also, I have a friend that is a materials and corrosion engineer. I going to validate my hardware selection and I should be set.
I have to add up everything but I think a set of two brackets with hardware will be in the 50 dollar range. The crossbar can be ordered elsewhere for cheaper so that problem is already solved. The pieces will be raw aluminum with laser cut edges. I think I've got a line on a good powder coating shop. If someone wants that I can probably arrange it but it will be more.
I thought I would post the final product from my DIY effort. This is my last post in this thread out of respect of Terrapod and the DIY nature of the thread.
I just got this installed yesterday and surprisingly there is very little road noise. I did find one thing I would change after the final install, but it’s not a big deal.
I had to design a piece to go into the rail to attach the bracket. What I finally came up with looks like what an OEM solution would look like in my opinion. Anyway, here is the final product.
I just got this installed yesterday and surprisingly there is very little road noise. I did find one thing I would change after the final install, but it’s not a big deal.
I had to design a piece to go into the rail to attach the bracket. What I finally came up with looks like what an OEM solution would look like in my opinion. Anyway, here is the final product.
Last edited:
Charlievee
Senior Member
Glad i found this thread, planning on building some cross bars in the near future. Priced out material for a little under $200.00 (including shipping and all hardware). Figure it will save me about the same amount and not have to wait months for a usable product.
Found this thread also with the specs for the stock rails.
Roof Rail Channel Dimensions
Found this thread also with the specs for the stock rails.
Roof Rail Channel Dimensions
Questions on the T-Nuts
Has anybody use a T-Nut that was purchased?
I stuck a cailiper in the slot and measured .395" which is 10.033 mm slot.
So you might be able to use a 3/8 Slot or 1 10 mm slot. I suspect that a 10 mm is the correct size.
3/8" in options.
McMaster-Carr
10mm
McMaster-Carr
This one might work too from Tnutz
(ST-045) 45 Series Standard T-nuts for 10mm slot | TNUTZ
Question of the day, has anybody done this?
Has anybody use a T-Nut that was purchased?
I stuck a cailiper in the slot and measured .395" which is 10.033 mm slot.
So you might be able to use a 3/8 Slot or 1 10 mm slot. I suspect that a 10 mm is the correct size.
3/8" in options.
McMaster-Carr
10mm
McMaster-Carr
This one might work too from Tnutz
(ST-045) 45 Series Standard T-nuts for 10mm slot | TNUTZ
Question of the day, has anybody done this?
I tried every T-nut sold commercially that I could find. Nothing I purchased would fit. I ended up designing my own plate to deal with that issue. Not sure what other folks did but that was the solution I came up with.
I'm thinking about something similar with longer cross bars. Do you have a picture of how it looks on the truck?
Top Rail Mountin HW.
How much are you going to charge for the brackets? (assuming you don't have 35 4runners).
Which T-Nuts did you try?
The lack of top rail mounting solutions is puzzling. It seems we have an army of very talented and motivated people on this thread alone.
I was thinking about these (M8 Drop in T-Slot Stud). I measured the slot at .395", which almost exactly 10 mm. You could say it's 3/8" too but it's metric truck.
McMaster-Carr
Then ditch the nut and add a knob for easy adjustment. Might need to add a lock washer? I'm not convince it wouldn't loosen up; however, my factory bards have a knob.
McMaster-Carr
Or maybe a cam lever? This would a novel and super quick to adjust the rails locations. Not cheap though. If you flip the handle under the cross rail it won't be able to turn either.
McMaster-Carr
Thoughts?
How much are you going to charge for the brackets? (assuming you don't have 35 4runners).
Which T-Nuts did you try?
The lack of top rail mounting solutions is puzzling. It seems we have an army of very talented and motivated people on this thread alone.
I was thinking about these (M8 Drop in T-Slot Stud). I measured the slot at .395", which almost exactly 10 mm. You could say it's 3/8" too but it's metric truck.
McMaster-Carr
Then ditch the nut and add a knob for easy adjustment. Might need to add a lock washer? I'm not convince it wouldn't loosen up; however, my factory bards have a knob.
McMaster-Carr
Or maybe a cam lever? This would a novel and super quick to adjust the rails locations. Not cheap though. If you flip the handle under the cross rail it won't be able to turn either.
McMaster-Carr
Thoughts?
The problem you are going to run into is with the 3mm shoulder sticking up above the flat surface that goes behind the challenge opening. It’s going to extend further than your rail so you won’t be able to “tighten up” and create tension between the rail and the bracket.
I was able to find T nuts that physically fit but that’s the other issue you run into.
Oh yeah, that makes sense. The shoulder looks like (from CAD) it's about 10.5 mm (.416") across the shoulder and has a dept of 3mm (.118").
Why not back drill a 1/2" hole on the mount, to thickness of the rail plus a bit of margin. Probably like 2 mm (.079"). Even 3mm (~.125") or all the way through the plate it should be fine because the nut will clamp the aluminum plate to the rail. It might be a bit of a sloppy fit if you drill all the way though?
Back drill with a 1/2" endmill bit . $20 at HD.
