Within a couple minutes, I got a request for the parts list(!).
Here is the parts list FOR ONE RAIL (so you will need to multiply it by the number of rails you want to build):
qty 1 - Rail:
EX-1530UL-BLACK - 1.5"" x 3"" Ultra-Light Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion - Black Anodized.
Length (in): 40
Fractional length: 0.000"
Machining for one end.: M8 x 1.25 x 30mm deep tap $1.00
Machining for other end.: M8 x 1.25 x 30mm deep tap $1.00
qty 4 - 20mm bolts (for side plates to rail ends):
Metric Button Head Socket Cap Screw
Thread Size: M8 x 1.25
Length: 20mm
qty 2 - Side plates:
(JP-015-D-BLACK) 4 Hole Joining Plate - Black Anodize
No Hardware Required
qty 4 - 8mm Tnuts for factory side rails:
(DT-045) 45 Series Drop-in Tnuts Leaf Spring
Thread Size: M8 x 1.25
qty 4 - 16mm bolts (side plates to factory side rails/tnuts):
Metric Button Head Socket Cap Screw
Thread Size: M8 x 1.25
Length: 16mm
Of course, you can also order the aluminum extrusions and plates in silver. If you do, please post a picture.
You will also want to go ahead and buy some Series 15 Tnuts to attach your accessories to the cross rails. All the fastener nuts in the Tnutz Series 15 fastener section are going to fit way better than anything you're going to get at Home Depot or Lowes, and save a lot of finger tips (from making your own slot nuts). I like the ones with spring-loaded ball bearings to push the nut into the slot and also give a bit of resistance to sliding.
Some build notes:
- Some people have found that the factory roof rails are just a skooch closer together at the rear. I measured the three rails and used the shortest one (maybe just a fraction of a mm shorter, because tolerance) at the rear and the other ones further forward. I also loosened the bolts which hold the rear of the factory rails to the roof, just to get a little wiggle room and try to avoid the inevitable "anodization scratch" (microfiber towels are your friends). If you are nervous you could order the rear most bar 1/16" shorter (Length 39", Fractional Length 15/16"), but by loosening the rear rack bolts to bump the width, my 40" bars all fit perfectly. Don't forget to tighten the bolts back up.
- As mentioned before, the combination of the Series 45 Tnut attached to an 8mm bolt won't drop-in/roll-in to the factory rail slot. So you were going to remove the rear rack caps and rubber slot bumpers so you could load the nuts through the rear of the rail anyway.
BTW, the Series 45 Tnut I chose was the only one that Tnutz carries that has a shallow enough slot step (< 2.5mm) to not stick out of the rail slot.
- I spaced the side plates on a 19.5" pitch with an 8mm gap between the factory rail end caps and the side plates (just stuck an 8mm bolt in the gap and pushed the plate against it, just like an old carpenter). You will find since the side rail bolts are below the cross rails, it's easier to tighten the plates to the side rails first, then attach and tighten the cross rails. It's still possible to loosen/tighten the side rail bolts when the cross rails are in, it just takes more time to do it without scratching the roof (I'll probably move one or more of the rails when it comes time to mount traction boards, etc.).
- I also moved the rubber bumper at the rear of the factory rail slot way back so that the rearmost bar could almost reach the rear end cap.
- In order to preserve the black finish, I didn't use any locknuts on the rail bolts. When the rail positions are somewhat finalized, I think it would be a good idea to put a dab of blue threadlock on the rail bolts for final assembly.
