Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!

SnowLizard said:

I'm really bummed absalom...



I really thought you would have put a budget side to this thread... but it's all 'toytec' and racing uca's... gosh... haha, but I gotta ask...



where's the tundra shocks? it's an amazing ride for so cheap... I'm using my stock 99 tall up front and 906 rear for 2 inch lift...



anyways, I understand your want for low CG's... I'm not a speed guy and I don't like the teeter either...



I went different on the tires, I understand the light weight... and I get it/prefer it... but I wanted wide tires in a small diameter... 285/70r16 nitto trail grapplers. My theory/reasoning is the heavier tire will help in those teeter moments, the extra weight will keep it planted, the width to keep grabbing/biting... the downside is I do loose contact pressure, but I'm not worried. now if they DID offer this size in a 40-45lbs tire, I'd be all over it...



anyways, keep it up and look forward to your 3rd 3rd gen....

Click to expand...

AZBub said:

Before you go that route. The Monroes are super soft and quite honestly don't last...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

absalom said:

This is great feedback. It's entirely possible the shock has changed over the years. I may modify the original post to reflect this.

Click to expand...

absalom said:

Used 2002-2004 Toyota Tundra TRD front springs (paint color code - yellow yellow, yellow blue)

Click to expand...

the walrus said:

After some searching I was able to determine that Monroe replaced the Sensa-trac name with OE Spectrum. It is supposed to have updated valving, and is considered higher grade than the economy level Monroe-matic line.

Click to expand...

absalom said:

Wow -- 2018 already! Thanks for following along all with the guide over the years. I think it's about time we make some updates to reflect new methodologies and additions to the sport. Stay tuned ...

Click to expand...

absalom said:

Wow -- 2018 already! Thanks for following along all with the guide over the years. I think it's about time we make some updates to reflect new methodologies and additions to the sport. Stay tuned ...

Click to expand...

absalom said:

Wow -- 2018 already! Thanks for following along all with the guide over the years. I think it's about time we make some updates to reflect new methodologies and additions to the sport. Stay tuned ...

Click to expand...

absalom said:

I've created the following "4runner Recipe Book" in response to an increasing number of PM's I have received many questions asking for advice and input on building up a 1996-2002 Toyota 4runner. The question usually goes something like this: "I have saggy OEM coils, with spacers front and back. My 33" tires rub like crazy. What should I begin replacing??". I've developed a series of easily replicable cookie cutter builds. We'll cover build ups for all walks of life, all driving styles, and more importantly, all wallet sizes! Without further adieu, let's jump right in!

Budget OEM Refresh

This build path would suit someone who just bought their first 4runner used. This person might be unsure of the truck's maintenance history. It tackles important, simple upkeep items, before delving into the suspension and tires. The user will end up with a very smooth running, reliable, semi-capable truck. Lighter trails, long road trips, daily errands -- all tackled with ease, just as Toyota designed. ​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - not brand specific
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New OEM-style rubber steering bushings
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• Used 99 Tall Coils front and rear
• New OEM Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)

Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Pavement Bias

The DD/WW build is aimed at folks who spend the majority of their time on pavement, but frequently take their trucks off-roading on the weekends. Great for a family that enjoys camping, a traveling salesperson, or a hunter. Using premium OEM components where applicable, drivers can rest assured they're getting the best quality on road.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
• New OEM radiator
• New OEM inner and outer tie rods
• New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New OEM sway bar links front and rear
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
• New OEM Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)

Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior - Trail Bias

This variant of the DD/WW build is geared towards drivers who desire a slightly more aggressive look and the extra traction of off-road tires. Great for the guy who loves bombing fire roads, medium difficulty trails, or towing a small boat. Using premium OEM components where applicable, drivers can rest assured this build will outlast most any other on this list.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
• New OEM radiator
• New OEM inner and outer tie rods
• New OEM upper and lower control arm bushings
• Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New OEM sway bar links front and rear
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• New OEM 99 Tall Coils front and rear
• New OEM Shocks/Struts
• New 265/75/16 all-terrain or mud-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
• 1/2" Body lift

Budget Trail Crawler

The 4runner is an astonishingly capable truck in stock form. Bolting on a well sorted, moderate lift only serves to enhance it's technical trail prowess. This build is a more affordable version of the bread and butter lift for the 3rd gen, as seen below. Repeated 1000's of times, it rarely disappoints and is guaranteed to get it's owner through all but the most technical trails. It's also a build with some trade-offs. The truck's center of gravity will be raised, it's acceleration reduced, it's braking power diminished, and it's on road comfort affected. Long distance driving tends to become more tedious and fuel stops more common. Take the truck off-road and it all starts to make sense. Rear articulation is nearly unlimited and obstacles seem less intimidating than before.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - not brand specific
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New aftermarket sway bar links - front
• DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• Used 2002-2004 Toyota Tundra TRD front springs (paint color code - yellow yellow, yellow blue)
• New Bilstein 5100's for Toyota Tundra (set to 2nd perch)
• Used 1991-1996 Toyota Land Cruiser front springs
• New Monroe Sens-a-Trac 91-96 Land Cruiser rear shocks
• DIY Adjustable panhard bar
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
  • Avoid E load rating tires if possible
  • Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
  • Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
  • Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
• 1" Body lift

Bread and Butter Build

In this build, we open up the purse strings a little more to create the true 4runner Bread and Butter Build. Copied a million times over, this build will provide many years of reliable service. Sure, there are more civilized directions to take (we'll touch on those next) but few other builds provide the capability that this does for this price.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
• New OEM radiator
• New OEM inner and outer tie rods
• New OEM lower control arm bushings
• Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New Light Racing (SPC) upper control arms
• New MDT extended sway bar links front
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
• New or Used 2002-2004 Toyota Tundra TRD front springs (paint color code - yellow yellow, yellow blue)
• New Bilstein 5100's for Toyota Tundra (set to 2nd perch)
• New Toytec Superflex rear springs
• New Toytec Bilsteins matched to above springs - rear
• Sonoran Steel or Toytec or DIY Adjustable panhard bar
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
• New 1-1.5" wheel spacers
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
  • Avoid E load rating tires if possible
  • Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
  • Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
  • Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
• 1" Body lift

The Ultimate

The name of this build is something of a misnomer. The build itself will not leave you with a class leading trophy truck, nor will it give Ferrari a run for it's money. I call it the ultimate because I believe it represents what these trucks should be. Simply put; completely capable in all categories - no more, no less. I set out to create a truck that would be equally at home bombing down a desert trail at 80 mph, as it would be escorting your teenage daughter to her first prom. A truck that creates lasting memories and takes us to places we never thought possible, with those closest to us. These trucks represent so much more than just four chunks of rubber and a heap of metal. Let's give them the respect they deserve and build them to their fullest potential.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
• New OEM radiator
• New OEM inner and outer tie rods
• New OEM lower control arm bushings
• Complete fluid change and timing belt replacement
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New/used TRD Supercharger with supporting mods
• Energy Suspension poly steering bushings
• New Light Racing (SPC) upper control arms
• New MDT extended sway bar links front
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• DIY Extended rear sway bar links - rear
• New King or Icon or FOA or Fox 2.5" Shocks
• New King or Icon or FOA or Fox 2.5" Coilovers w/ springs
• New King or Icon or FOA or Fox bumpstops - front/rear
• New Toytec Superflex rear springs
• Sonoran Steel or Toytec or DIY Adjustable panhard bar
• Rebuilt 4.88 3rd member/clamshell from ECGS - front and rear
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
• New 1-1.5" wheel spacers
• New 285/75/16 mud-terrain or all-terrain tires
  • Avoid E load rating tires if possible
  • Always mount with Road Force balancing machine
  • Choose All-Terrains for snowy, icy, and sandy terrain
  • Choose Mud-Terrains for rocky, muddy, and loose snow terrain
• 1" Body lift

Click to expand...

tito_zako said:

This is awesome, thanks so much for putting this togeter!
I'm curious why you recommend avoiding E load rated tires??

Click to expand...

rkntoy said:

There have been some fun discussions on this topic - with some coming down on the side of E rated tires being too stiff with resulting negative impacts on ride quality.

I have decided that my butt is not sensitive enough to notice the difference.

Click to expand...

eimkeith said:

I run E rated tires also; it certainly doesn't affect ride quality as much as leveling the panhard bar does.. Sorta funny which aspects folks do/don't focus on.

Click to expand...

absalom said:

I was confused, and then I saw your signature. Tire sidewall stiffness absolutely can affect overall NVH, but I'll agree, some folks are more sensitive to these changes than others. Educate me, how would a panhard correction affect ride quality (from an NVH standpoint). I understand how it could affect rear axle tracking, body roll to some degree, but not ride quality as most folks define it. Honestly asking

Click to expand...

• Center of gravity is paramount. It's crucial to keep weight as low as possible, while still maintaining up/down travel and factory A-arm geometry.
• Tire size is overrated - for most of us. Tires size doesn't and shouldn't go past 31" unless the builder is prepared to re-gear front and rear. This obviously doesn't apply to extreme wheelers doing trails rated 8+ out of 10. But it also applies to more people than you'd think.
• Accessories should also be kept as low as possible to not take CoG penalty. Unfortunately, many of the rooftop tents, tire carriers, and other high-mounted accessories incur a large CoG penalty, and the vehicle should be driven as such.
• I'm no longer a fan of the TBU after reported safety concerns of it interfering with the ABS system. The stock brakes, in good condition, are more than adequate for this truck - especially when keeping tires sized as described below.
• Armor is awesome! An emphasis should be placed on doing full flat belly and sliders first. I'm less concerned with bumpers, as our trucks have a pretty decent approach/departure angle out of the box. I'd rather drag ass (safely) over an obstacle than be lifted high up and tippy.

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
• New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New OEM Tokico Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
  • Engine oil
  • Power steering fluid
  • Differential fluid
  • Coolant flush
• New rubber OEM-style steering rack bushings
• New OEM (or rubber, at least) lower control arm bushings (I no longer recommend poly bushings for this application)
• New Durobump bumpstops
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New OEM sway bar bushings front and rear
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New Bilstein 6112's up front
• New Bilstein 5160's out back
• New 265/75/16 all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine) (Highly recommend the Toyo AT2's for this build, in P-rating)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
• HID Projector retrofit (55w D2s in 4300k color temperature)

absalom said:

Hi all!

I found a burst of passion and was all fired up to edit the original post, but after careful review and deliberation, I've decided to leave it be and simply my post my modifications here.

I hope that at least some folks have found the original guide posted over 4 years ago helpful. In some ways, a lot has changed in that time, but in other ways many of the same basic building blocks remain. After much experimenting, research, and data collecting, I've modified my thoughts on the ideal way to build up these (still) amazing trucks. I hope you'll follow along to see some of the new changes to the builds themselves.

{My current philosophy}:

• Center of gravity is paramount. It's crucial to keep weight as low as possible, while still maintaining up/down travel and factory A-arm geometry.
• Tire size is overrated - for most of us. Tires size doesn't and shouldn't go past 31" unless the builder is prepared to re-gear front and rear. This obviously doesn't apply to extreme wheelers doing trails rated 8+ out of 10. But it also applies to more people than you'd think.
• Accessories should also be kept as low as possible to not take CoG penalty. Unfortunately, many of the rooftop tents, tire carriers, and other high-mounted accessories incur a large CoG penalty, and the vehicle should be driven as such.
• I'm no longer a fan of the TBU after reported safety concerns of it interfering with the ABS system. The stock brakes, in good condition, are more than adequate for this truck - especially when keeping tires sized as described below.
• Armor is awesome! An emphasis should be placed on doing full flat belly and sliders first. I'm less concerned with bumpers, as our trucks have a pretty decent approach/departure angle out of the box. I'd rather drag ass (safely) over an obstacle than be lifted high up and tippy.

Without further adieu, let's jump into my new two favorite build-outs!

The Jack of All Trades -- Brand New!

By following the below simple recipe, the builder can rest assured they'll end up with an extremely capable, reliable and enjoyable truck that still rides, drives, and feels like a brand new OEM truck. Highway speeds of 85+ are a breeze. Steering will be extremely tight and predictable. And handling will be stellar for a truck of this size and design. This truck will live up to, and exceed, its reputation, and be able to handle any sort of camping trip, off-road excursion, or road trip you can dream up. ​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
    
  • Engine oil
    
  • Power steering fluid
    
  • Differential fluid
    
  • Coolant flush
• New Energy steering rack bushings
• New Whiteline lower control arm bushings
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New KYB Shocks/Struts
• New 265/70/16 highway terrain or all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)

The Maverick - Brand New!!

The spicy version of the above, this build improves much of the suspension performance and wheel control over rough terrain. It also modernizes the lighting for increased safety. This build would suit 99.999% of this forum's wheeling habits. It is certainly a shift away from the old school thought of simply lifting to the moon and slapping massive tires on. The 4x4 community is finally recognizing the value of low CoG, and this build recognizes the tremendous benefits.​

• New OEM lower ball joints
  ---> If play is detected in tie rod ends, than new aftermarket tie rods should be installed.
• New radiator - Denso (the Taiwanese units seem acceptable)
• Complete fluid change and timing belt inspection
  • Brake fluid
    
  • Engine oil
    
  • Power steering fluid
    
  • Differential fluid
    
  • Coolant flush
• New Energy steering rack bushings
• New Whiteline lower control arm bushings
• New Durobump bumpstops
• New aftermarket sway bar links front and rear
• New aftermarket sway bar bushings front and rear
• New 99 Tall Coils front (Moogs are perfectly acceptable here)
• New OME 906 rear springs
• New Bilstein 6112's up front
• New Bilstein 5160's out back
• New 265/75/16 all-terrain tires (Mounted with road-force balancing machine) (Highly recommend the Toyo AT2's for this build, in P-rating)
• Full under-body armor kit (many vendors available)
• Rock sliders (4xInnovations are a great budget option)
• HID Projector retrofit (55w D2s in 4300k color temperature)

Click to expand...

absalom said:

Hi all!

I found a burst of passion and was all fired up to edit the original post, but after careful review and deliberation, I've decided to leave it be and simply my post my modifications here.

I hope that at least some folks have found the original guide posted over 4 years ago helpful. In some ways, a lot has changed in that time, but in other ways many of the same basic building blocks remain. After much experimenting, research, and data collecting, I've modified my thoughts on the ideal way to build up these (still) amazing trucks. I hope you'll follow along to see some of the new changes to the builds themselves.

{My current philosophy}:

• Center of gravity is paramount. It's crucial to keep weight as low as possible, while still maintaining up/down travel and factory A-arm geometry.
• Tire size is overrated - for most of us. Tires size doesn't and shouldn't go past 31" unless the builder is prepared to re-gear front and rear. This obviously doesn't apply to extreme wheelers doing trails rated 8+ out of 10. But it also applies to more people than you'd think.
• Accessories should also be kept as low as possible to not take CoG penalty. Unfortunately, many of the rooftop tents, tire carriers, and other high-mounted accessories incur a large CoG penalty, and the vehicle should be driven as such.
• I'm no longer a fan of the TBU after reported safety concerns of it interfering with the ABS system. The stock brakes, in good condition, are more than adequate for this truck - especially when keeping tires sized as described below.
• Armor is awesome! An emphasis should be placed on doing full flat belly and sliders first. I'm less concerned with bumpers, as our trucks have a pretty decent approach/departure angle out of the box. I'd rather drag ass (safely) over an obstacle than be lifted high up and tippy.

Click to expand...