Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!

I'm really bummed absalom...

I really thought you would have put a budget side to this thread... but it's all 'toytec' and racing uca's... gosh... haha, but I gotta ask...

where's the tundra shocks? it's an amazing ride for so cheap... I'm using my stock 99 tall up front and 906 rear for 2 inch lift...

anyways, I understand your want for low CG's... I'm not a speed guy and I don't like the teeter either...

I went different on the tires, I understand the light weight... and I get it/prefer it... but I wanted wide tires in a small diameter... 285/70r16 nitto trail grapplers. My theory/reasoning is the heavier tire will help in those teeter moments, the extra weight will keep it planted, the width to keep grabbing/biting... the downside is I do loose contact pressure, but I'm not worried. now if they DID offer this size in a 40-45lbs tire, I'd be all over it...

anyways, keep it up and look forward to your 3rd 3rd gen.... :D
 
Renton4runner said:
Which specific duratracs are you looking at? Looks like either the 265/75/16 or 265/70/17?

Also, how do I go about finding a lightweight rim? I cant find weight listed on any of the major wheel retail sites.
Click to expand...
Argh, I know right. You pretty much just have to call the mfg and ask for specs. The Level 8's are shockingly light (not the lightest though), and stupid affordable. Every time I go to pick a wheel, I tell myself I won't do the same damned wheel, and every time I pick the Strike 6. I like SCS and Method, but they are over twice the price for marginal weight savings.

SnowLizard said:
I'm really bummed absalom...

I really thought you would have put a budget side to this thread... but it's all 'toytec' and racing uca's... gosh... haha, but I gotta ask...

where's the tundra shocks? it's an amazing ride for so cheap... I'm using my stock 99 tall up front and 906 rear for 2 inch lift...

anyways, I understand your want for low CG's... I'm not a speed guy and I don't like the teeter either...

I went different on the tires, I understand the light weight... and I get it/prefer it... but I wanted wide tires in a small diameter... 285/70r16 nitto trail grapplers. My theory/reasoning is the heavier tire will help in those teeter moments, the extra weight will keep it planted, the width to keep grabbing/biting... the downside is I do loose contact pressure, but I'm not worried. now if they DID offer this size in a 40-45lbs tire, I'd be all over it...

anyways, keep it up and look forward to your 3rd 3rd gen.... :D
Click to expand...
Budget Trail Crawler, I'm pretty sure I have Tundra 5100's listed as an option. That's just it though, I don't see them as much more than a budget option. I've been fortunate enough to drive a fully Icon'd out 3rd gen, and there's no going back. 2.5" shock bodies just crap all over 5100's and other more affordable options. We're talking about a $5-8k car here, what's the big deal in dropping $1,500 in some decent Kings. I'm ranting, and more just bitter with myself for wasting time with lesser options.

I won't get into the whole wide v. skinny tire debate as there is pros and cons to both :D
 
absalom said:
Budget Trail Crawler, I'm pretty sure I have Tundra 5100's listed as an option. That's just it though, I don't see them as much more than a budget option. I've been fortunate enough to drive a fully Icon'd out 3rd gen, and there's no going back. 2.5" shock bodies just crap all over 5100's and other more affordable options. We're talking about a $5-8k car here, what's the big deal in dropping $1,500 in some decent Kings. I'm ranting, and more just bitter with myself for wasting time with lesser options.

I won't get into the whole wide v. skinny tire debate as there is pros and cons to both :D
Click to expand...

I agree, skinny vs wide ... to each their own...

what I meant was...
New Monroe Sens-a-Trac 91-96 Land Cruiser rear shocks
not a more durable bilstein...

I get you on kings... someday I might go that route.
 
Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds

bilsteins up front are stiff the Monroes out back are sloppy. that's been my summed up experience.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JayRolla said:
I have never ran a monroe I liked. That being said my LC Tokico Blacks ride awesome!
Click to expand...
I had fantastic results with the Monroes, but I appreciate the feedback on the Tokicos. I'll consider adding them as an alternative. I loved the Tokicos on my LC, they rode amazing.
 
I didnt see any cookies in this thread. I was expecting cookies. Chocolate chip, sugar, peanut butter, oat meal, etc. This is so disappointing
25.gif
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1.gif
 
Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds

.....and that is the best AI has to offer currently..... Spamming about cookies.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
absalom said:
Load rating, specifically a tire's weight certainly play a huge role in our truck's performance characteristics. However, it's important to also recognize the profound affect that larger tires have, especially when not properly regeared.

With each build I do, I become less and less excited to deal with the downsides of larger tires. The benefits, in most situations, aren't realized until front and rear lockers are fitted anyways. The truck becomes more exhausting to drive daily, stuff wears out so much quicker, low range becomes less useful offroad (unless properly regeared), etc etc.

My takeaway from all this is: run super light tires, I don't even mind P-rated tires offroad. Small (16 vs 17) diameter wheels, as long as they clear the calipers, I hugely prefer the extra benefits of running a small wheel with lots of sidewall. Keep diameters below 33", though I'm partial to 32" tires. I'll only run 33's if the truck has been regeared, and 32's with 4.3 gears. I also avoid E range tires like the plague, and even D unless the weight is reasonable.

My theme with this next build will be low, wide, and stable. Figuring a 1.5" lift up front, 2" out back, and then flatbelly the whole truck. I hate going slow, and I hate being unstable on off-camber trails. I'm going to run C load 32"/16" D-tracs with a decent, lightweight rim.
Click to expand...

Me and you are on the same page. I did sports cars for a long time and the Porsche engineers (Porsche is, and always has been an engineering firm first and a car maker second), famously calculated that rotating/unsprung weight is 7:1 in value of sprung weight, in terms of overall performance. AND, they equip their cars with aluminum lug nuts, "because deh are lighta.".

Anyway I'm on my with with the King coilovers up front, which I'm going to add remote reservoirs with external adjusters and the matching King shocks in the rear, also with the external compression adjustments, Toytech superflex coils and extended links. Air bumps will come later.

Currently I've got 265/75-16 Toyo's (from previous owner), and they are some stiff SOB's. I'm looking at the 255/85's so I can go with a bit more offset and not rub, but the selection is limited, and I really don't want to re-gear. I had Duratrac's on my FZJ80 and they worked well, especially with the Interco Birddog wheels (I wish they made them in more sizes). So for now I guess I'll just leave them the way they are, but I'll be looking at wheel weight as a primary issue.

The only downside to superlight tires is they usually have weaker sidewalls and are more likely to get cut in the rocks.
 
I hope this is an appropriate place to ask this. I finally have saved enough pennies to purchase a lift (OME 906/880 with 5100s), which is desperately needed with the rear sag and noises from the rear shocks I'm getting. I'm also going to do the LBJ's at the same time. My question is, am I fine with only replacing the LBJ's or do I need to go after the Inner/Outer tierods, UBJ bushings, steering rack bushings, etc? I know it would be "best" and easier to do it all while I'm in there, but it's taken awhile for me to get to the point where I can afford to do the lift and LBJ's and I don't really want to put those things off any longer.

BTW, I have a 99 with 135k miles.
 
HeshBen said:
I hope this is an appropriate place to ask this. I finally have saved enough pennies to purchase a lift (OME 906/880 with 5100s), which is desperately needed with the rear sag and noises from the rear shocks I'm getting. I'm also going to do the LBJ's at the same time. My question is, am I fine with only replacing the LBJ's or do I need to go after the Inner/Outer tierods, UBJ bushings, steering rack bushings, etc? I know it would be "best" and easier to do it all while I'm in there, but it's taken awhile for me to get to the point where I can afford to do the lift and LBJ's and I don't really want to put those things off any longer.

BTW, I have a 99 with 135k miles.
Click to expand...

Check for play on all those parts mentioned. I would do the lift, LBJ's and if the other parts feel solid than go get alignment. If they find play, they will let you know. Be ready to replaced outer tie rods and maybe UBJ's. Inners usually last pretty good and so do LCA and UCA bushings.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the great post. Ill be following the Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior suggestions for my hunting 4runner :)
 
I'm planning a suspension refresh for my 99 3rz base model. I'm leaning toward OEM equipment because I'd prefer a comfy ride and tend to move slowly and carefully anyway when I do any offroad stuff.

The truck came with 225 tires, but I have put 265/70R16s on it. What I'm wrestling with right now is how to wade through the various Toyota part numbers for coils, shocks, and struts.

Struts:
48510-39585 (about $120) which indicates "MARK 48511-3D070; MARK 48511-3D070"
48510-39436 (about $180)
Both struts say "W(265/70R16 TIRE)"

What are the differences between these two part #s?

Same thing seems to go for coils and shocks... sorry, newb self-pity setting in!
 
JZiggy said:
I'm planning a suspension refresh for my 99 3rz base model. I'm leaning toward OEM equipment because I'd prefer a comfy ride and tend to move slowly and carefully anyway when I do any offroad stuff.

The truck came with 225 tires, but I have put 265/70R16s on it. What I'm wrestling with right now is how to wade through the various Toyota part numbers for coils, shocks, and struts.

Struts:
48510-39585 (about $120) which indicates "MARK 48511-3D070; MARK 48511-3D070"
48510-39436 (about $180)
Both struts say "W(265/70R16 TIRE)"

What are the differences between these two part #s?

Same thing seems to go for coils and shocks... sorry, newb self-pity setting in!
Click to expand...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/61442-99-coil-spring-part-numbers.html

Second post in that thread. The struts and shocks are a lot more obvious. Just go to Camelback and select shocks for a 99 4wd with 16" wheel.

Don't be fooled, you can still absolutely fly offroad with OEM suspension in good, working condition. Just remember to air those 265/75's down to ~15 psi when you touch the dirt!
 
Thanks for the input, Ab!

What are your feelings on KYB Gas-A-Just? I could get a whole kit plus mounts on RockAuto for about the price of one OEM strut.
 
JZiggy said:
Thanks for the input, Ab!

What are your feelings on KYB Gas-A-Just? I could get a whole kit plus mounts on RockAuto for about the price of one OEM strut.
Click to expand...
No experience, but I generally have good luck with KYB. If you're on a budget, I say go for it. But do report back!
 
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