1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

sleepydad said:

and as a note to self... after you almost knock the rear axle assembly off the stupid jack stands 4x times... hang the assembly from the hoist and do it that way. so much easier + the added benefit of anti gravity and height adjustment when you put the wheels back onto it.

<a href="https://imgur.com/T9Hl2Qj"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/T9Hl2Qjl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

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I gotta go buy an engine hoist soon just to get mine out of the damn truck bed :lmao:

[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] were you able to get your pattern figured out? I’m watching you do this closely since I gotta do it in a month I have to weld on a new diff cover.

MN4runnerman said:

[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] were you able to get your pattern figured out? I’m watching you do this closely since I gotta do it in a month I have to weld on a new diff cover.

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The pict I showed is the best contact I can get by adjusting the side to side on both the coast and drive side. I would need a couple of different sizes on the pinon shim to get it nailed correctly. If I wanted to get this one into factory spec I would need to move the pinon down.

Yes my pattern is off to one side and way deeper on the coast side.

it's a worn set of gears with 250K already. I hope it can last me this winter and I will try again. I have another better set to mess with and I will keep at it until I can get a good pattern.

it's very time consuming to make the adjustments. I can see spending 5-6 hours getting one correctly dialed in.

get 2x new crush sleeves you will mess the first one up for sure
find out what size spacer is on the pinon now, get one size smaller and one sizer bigger. this way you can move it up or down.

if you need help just ask I'm more than happy to give it a try. I can see why the gear guy make good $.

This is why I used Zuk for my 2nd gen's 3rd member. He's an absolute animal and worth every penny. (Actually is was very reasonable even with shipping to and from). And he's got the system down, full communication and pictures the entire way. I commend your attempts, but boy it's a headache I really don't want to deal with.

Keep it up, and I hope it works as you intend!

sleepydad said:

so your asking me, how do I feel about using old engine oil and spraying it all over the frame to prevent rust?

I have known some people who have done it. it works.

I also know somebody who did exactly that and his car caught on fire and burnt to a crispy critter. so... I'm hesitant to do it.

not saying it does not work, it does. also being the driving exon valdez might not be cool? I do drive my other truck thru streams in the mountains and other wild areas and dumping oil into those streams seems like a bad idea. I know it's not a lot but it would bother me.

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When I raced mountain bikes twenty years ago, there were some guys who would spray their mountain bikes with PAM and it seemed to keep the mud off. One guy who lived in a camper attached to a F250 sprayed his whole truck and despite living on the outskirts of Durango the truck remained clean for the most part.

Hopefully it was Jack Daniels in hand.....:guitar2:

4Reak Show said:

This is why I used Zuk for my 2nd gen's 3rd member. He's an absolute animal and worth every penny. (Actually is was very reasonable even with shipping to and from). And he's got the system down, full communication and pictures the entire way. I commend your attempts, but boy it's a headache I really don't want to deal with.

Keep it up, and I hope it works as you intend!

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all of life is a headache I don't want to deal with... pretty much.

agree 100% it's a very niche skill set and worth every penny when you find somebody who knows what needs to be done.

but then again it's about $600 for a basic setup on a open 4.10 3rd

I would like to get it down and I will keep at it. doing some different gearing is something on my long term to do list.

it is the sketchy build so I have appearances to keep up.

LittleCaesar said:

When I raced mountain bikes twenty years ago, there were some guys who would spray their mountain bikes with PAM and it seemed to keep the mud off. One guy who lived in a camper attached to a F250 sprayed his whole truck and despite living on the outskirts of Durango the truck remained clean for the most part.

Hopefully it was Jack Daniels in hand.....:guitar2:

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hmmm I think doing something editable might get critters? the mice love to get into my frame once it gets cold out. coating that thing in PAM... they would be in heaven licking the entire frame down. we used to spray the ice fishing holes with a shot of PAM, keeps them from icing up while fishing.

I was planning on spraying everything down with fluid film on this build just to try it from the get go.

Tullamore Dew on the rocks.

I don’t know if Ron ever had a serious critter invasion due to the Pam, the strong stench of BO kept the ladies at bay. May have kept the critters away too. Wasn’t aware that rats had a serious thing for licking Pam.

He did used to coat his undercarriage with Tri Flow, like those big cans that pop up in Tim’s videos on his bench now and then. I do know that upon his second pending trans replacement in 2016 he decided to junk it at 622,xxx miles.

Subscribed to this build....

and that concludes the back end for now

I still need a set of the upside down rubber cone things that go into the coils... don't know what they are called... maybe a trip to the junk yard?

also need some bump stops and of course brakes and all that stuff but for now she is sitting on her hind legs and that is a milestone.

now the wait for parts begins again... next up is front end working from the center to the outside.

<a href="https://imgur.com/Zk7AKP9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Zk7AKP9l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Rancho 7000’s? Just go to the junkyard for those cone thingy’s I’m pretty sure that’s the only way to get them


Edit: lol never mind I zoomed in. Toytec boss shocks. They look like the ranchos tho

Rear brakes/e-brake and the look of disapproval

<a href="https://imgur.com/eD4VugL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/eD4VugL.gif" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I ordered 2x left cables for the mustage calipers.. this is the part from napachina. figured that way it would be the same length for sure.
<a href="https://imgur.com/HWgbWNf"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/HWgbWNfl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I also made a modification to the brake bracket and tack'ed 4mm spacers on either side so the brackets are universal/left or right because I always try to install them on the wrong side so... now there is no wrong side.

<a href="https://imgur.com/9hzynVI"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/9hzynVIl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/9TItgVb"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/9TItgVbl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

after a week of waiting and a bunch of runaround with napachina, hoozaay calipers.
<a href="https://imgur.com/UIXlod5"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/UIXlod5l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

the plan is to use the stock yota cable routing hoopy like braket to route the cables up and I will also have to fab up a 2 to 1 thing but it's going to be terrific and I'm looking forward to that entire task.

<a href="https://imgur.com/8dhxU3F"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8dhxU3Fl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I needed another connection on the other side so I bent up a braket and welded some captive m8 1.25 flange nuts in there just like the left side and welded it into place on the right. so now I have a solid connection for the custom bracket hoop thing.

<a href="https://imgur.com/rmnnGrS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/rmnnGrSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


then I packed up the left A caliper and oh nice they gave me 2x A calipers and a B box.... so the box is correct they just... fock.

<a href="https://imgur.com/qu1LSH7"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qu1LSH7l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

sleepydad said:

then I packed up the left A caliper and oh nice they gave me 2x A calipers and a B box.... so the box is correct they just... fock.

<a href="https://imgur.com/qu1LSH7"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qu1LSH7l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

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Just turn the truck upside down to bleed the right side.

-Charlie

Or mount it to the front side of the right rotor lol

sleepydad said:

I still need a set of the upside down rubber cone things that go into the coils... don't know what they are called... maybe a trip to the junk yard?

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aw crap, are we supposed to leave those in? i tossed them when i lifted my 4runner. :scared:

mesooohoppy said:

aw crap, are we supposed to leave those in? i tossed them when i lifted my 4runner. :scared:

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you don't need them but... the springs make less noise. not so creaky. also they are metal inside so... I think maybe they are a last resort bump stop maybe?

I have a set now but I still need to stuff them into the top of the springs because I hate the spring compressor thing. pretty easy access right now so I guess I will put some in.

Excuse the ignorance but, did you mention somewhere in this thread what parts were used for the rear disc conversion? I'd be interested in doing this. What was used as a hub?

Did you fab those rear disc brackets or buy them?

Sean-Himself said:

Excuse the ignorance but, did you mention somewhere in this thread what parts were used for the rear disc conversion? I'd be interested in doing this. What was used as a hub?

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dcshipwreck said:

Did you fab those rear disc brackets or buy them?

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I think I give all the details in the vid

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/cR9MwkjO_ZY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


this is the file you need if you want to have somebody water jet or lazer cut them for you

bracket V18.dxf - Google Drive

you could even print it out as a 1:1 size parallel projection and use it as a template. I hand ground out the first template.

just make sure you use good quality 3/8" steel. the 4mm spacers that need to go between the bracket and the caliper are a pain but... again if you can fabricate not hard at all.

if you have the skills and can make improvements to the brackets please share them back with others on T4R.

I'm on most days so if you have questions, fire away.

some progress

after a fun filled weekend of slopping around in greasy mess that is this trucks engine...


this truck has a well seasoned VZ that has been leaking for a long time. all the seals need to be replaced. it's also pretty crusty from salt so I will try to clean it up and get it back into decent shape. it has great compression with 175-180 on all the cylinders. even with 220K on it, this one could do 400K if I don't mess it up.
<a href="https://imgur.com/Pj3DpSg"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Pj3DpSgl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I have been collecting rubber plugs for all the VZ holes these latest ones work perfect on the plug tubes and the intake. now that it's up on the stand I can hit it with some ez-off oven cleaner and do a light wash so it's not such a freaking goo fest to work on.

<a href="https://imgur.com/jxyq2nk"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/jxyq2nkl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/b4D7X6Z"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/b4D7X6Zl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and the search starts for new gas tank or at least one that has less rust on it.

<a href="https://imgur.com/TyJeEsM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/TyJeEsMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

even though it has good compression why not just be 100% safe and do the head gaskets?