WalterRunner
New member
99 4WD lights
I have the flashing 4WD light problem on my limited 99..but i think im stuck in 2WD..
I have the flashing 4WD light problem on my limited 99..but i think im stuck in 2WD..
3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos
- Thread starter mtbtim
- Start date
mtbtim
Elite Member
The 3.4 liter engine isn't immune to head gasket problems but they do have a much better reputation than the 3.0 liter engine which had lots of head gasket failures.
STI_MECE
New member
You sir have provided a wealth of knowledge to this community and I thank you! I am a total DIY guy, watching your videos helps save me so much time because of the notes i can take on tools etc i am going to need. I dont have to run around my garage wondering looking for this or that.
Planning to repair your car, right, takes more work than actually doing the repair. I say its more work than doing the repair because if you have done enough research and prepared yourself for what is to come, the repair should be straight forward.
No joke you are the reason i got my 4runner a few weeks ago...I love to tinker, and I got a laundry list of stuff im my garage waiting to go on my 4runner.
Thank you and keep contributing!
Chris98t4r
New member
Very helpful videos, thank you
mtbtim
Elite Member
No, we don't have this video in our library yet but most likely one day we'll do this job.
Getting supplies ready to do the power steering flush/reservoir cleaning. I was going to order the o-ring but the parts site said it would not work for my vehicle. I used the same part # in timmy's video. Has anyone else run into this issue. I have an 01, don't know if it matters. Thanks.
mtbtim
Elite Member
You should have the same power steering unit as all the other 3rd Gen years as far as I know. There are differences between the model years but I haven't heard the later models have a different power steering pump and reservoir. If yours looks the same as the one in the video, it's a pretty safe bet the o-ring is going to work.
jearred.foruria
New member
mtbtim
Elite Member
Dude, you should have looked at the video we made for this first. It might have made life easier for you getting the diff out. We had the same struggle getting the diff out and back in. Since then, I've pulled a front diff another 4 times and there's two tricks to getting it out and back in easier. #1 is to disconnect the driver side motor mount, and jack up under the oil pan to give you more room. #2 is to disconnect the metal vacuum and breather line from the top of the diff because those metal lines want to hook the power steering lines as you're trying to get the diff out. Once the metal lines are loose, I turn the line assembly 90 degrees so they're out of the way of the power steering lines. If you do those 2 things, the diff comes out without a fight. We listed these two techniques in a pinned comment for the video we made.
I'm surprised how easy you got that stub shaft out. My buddy Fred and I tried the 2 prybar technique that you used and couldn't get the damn thing to budge. I think maybe you had pry bars with thinner ends to get under the gear better. Anyway, good job getting it done.
I put this video in the table of contents.
Last edited:
weekendclimber
New member
I was prepared to do all that as well (remove the motor mount and jack up the engine), but I think having taken off the front diff mounts prior to removal definitely helps and may make it unnecessary. [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has way more experience with these than I do, so if you're struggling too much with removal, then you should follow his advice.
Also, as for removing the 4 LBJ bolts: I would advise against that for anyone unless you are replacing them. Though it's not stated in the FSM, after reading many instances of these bolts backing out after removal and reinstallation, it's pretty clear to me that they are most likely torqued to yield. This means that they should be replaced with new bolts any time they are removed. Ask [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] how he knows.
Last edited:
mtbtim
Elite Member
I haven't tried the technique of removing the diff mounts prior to removal so I don't know how much that makes it easier. From my experience, the companion flange on the diff strikes the bell housing and the oil pan gets in the way too. Disconnecting the motor mount is easy for me because I've done it several times now so I think I'd stick with my technique to jacking up the motor because it eliminates the fight with bench pressing the diff over and over again. With the motor jacked up a bit, the differential literally falls right out without a fight.
jearred.foruria
New member
Tim I watched your video and to be honest, missed some of the steps you mentioned. It could have been much easier! I was just so damn excited! At the end of the day, I got it done and I love the 4.88's!
As always, appreciate you and the experience you provide. I have watched a LOT of your videos.
Cheers
As always, appreciate you and the experience you provide. I have watched a LOT of your videos.
Cheers
mtbtim
Elite Member
Well, it's actually a "thread" and not a single post but it's good to hear you have found the thread helpful. Happy Wrenching!
How smooth should power steering be?
An issue I'm having which I can't find a thread for on the forum is sometimes when I'm turning left at low speeds(entering driveway, turning into a parking spot), my steering wheel gets stiff/borderline stuck and I need to apply extra force to turn the wheel. This only happens when I'm turning left, at low speeds, but it doesn't happen all the time. A coworker is suspecting a bad bushing somewhere in the front end. My PS pump isn't whining. I've owned the truck for roughly 2 months and the PS fluid level has remained the same, so I don't suspect a leak.
Other threads I've read deal with stiff steering all the time or when cold. Some things mentioned in those were lower ball joints going bad, bushings on sway bar going bad/worn out. Any other area I should be looking at? When I had the front end up on jackstands and turning it lock to lock, I could not replicate the issue.
I just flushed the power steering fluid, and cleaned out the mesh screen at the bottom of the reservoir yesterday, and while the steering seemed somewhat smoother, this issue did not go away.
sorry for the long post, I figured the more details the better. :blabla:
An issue I'm having which I can't find a thread for on the forum is sometimes when I'm turning left at low speeds(entering driveway, turning into a parking spot), my steering wheel gets stiff/borderline stuck and I need to apply extra force to turn the wheel. This only happens when I'm turning left, at low speeds, but it doesn't happen all the time. A coworker is suspecting a bad bushing somewhere in the front end. My PS pump isn't whining. I've owned the truck for roughly 2 months and the PS fluid level has remained the same, so I don't suspect a leak.
Other threads I've read deal with stiff steering all the time or when cold. Some things mentioned in those were lower ball joints going bad, bushings on sway bar going bad/worn out. Any other area I should be looking at? When I had the front end up on jackstands and turning it lock to lock, I could not replicate the issue.
I just flushed the power steering fluid, and cleaned out the mesh screen at the bottom of the reservoir yesterday, and while the steering seemed somewhat smoother, this issue did not go away.
sorry for the long post, I figured the more details the better. :blabla:
Does it get easier to turn if you apply more gas when its "stuck"?
Similar threads
