Tell me about re-gearing my 5th gen

I'm running 4.56 gears from ECGS on 285/70 Nitto RG's. I took a trip from Atlanta, GA to Cincinnati, OH, and back. I averaged maybe 13.5 mpg running 70-80 mph.

The best part is the power it has going through the TN and KY mountains. It's a hit on MPG but worth every penny to gain the power back and then some.

The only regret is not going with a front locker when I did this upgrade. I'm a firm believer in having and not needing rather than needing and not having.

Here is a quick shot from the road trip to give you an idea of the mph vs rpm. I'd say this is about 70 mph at 2500 rpm.



Also, I ran 4.56 with 295/70 and 35x12.50 in this rig. The 295/70 is a perfect match between a bigger tire than 285 and good highway rpm's along with great power. I'm sure a 285/75 would have been great also.

The 35's felt stock if not still a bit better.

Hell, I ran 4.56's with stock wheels and tires to see what it was like. Not too bad. Definitely want to keep it under 70 mph or the mpg drops drastically.

4.56 vs 4.88 gears

How much difference is there really between 4.56 and 4.88 gears? I know on this thread a lot of people are saying go with the 4.56 gears, why did you choose them over 4.88? Just curious.

Thanks

So, if I'm reading this thread correctly, regearing and an air locker should cost around $2,500???

I have an SR5 that I plan to regear and add an air locker. A reputable shop in Jersey quoted me $4,000 to $4,500 including parts. I have an air compressor installed and would run the switch wires.

WTF???

CF_Machete said:

So, if I'm reading this thread correctly, regearing and an air locker should cost around $2,500???

I have an SR5 that I plan to regear and add an air locker. A reputable shop in Jersey quoted me $4,000 to $4,500 including parts. I have an air compressor installed and would run the switch wires.

WTF???

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My regear only(no locker add) with ECGS cost me almost $2400 2+ years ago. I'm not sure how much 2+ years would raise the cost or the cost of the locker install but it does seem high. Are you planning on using ECGS or having the shop do it?

comtn4x4 said:

My regear only(no locker add) with ECGS cost me almost $2400 2+ years ago. I'm not sure how much 2+ years would raise the cost or the cost of the locker install but it does seem high. Are you planning on using ECGS or having the shop do it?

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I'm probably having a shop do it. new gears, bearing kit and air locker. I normally do my own work, but this shop is ARB certified and with potential seal issues, I'd rather have parts and labor warrantied.

most of the cost was supposedly the IFS gears. I expected around $3,500 start to finish, but $4,500... nope

CF_Machete said:

I'm probably having a shop do it. new gears, bearing kit and air locker. I normally do my own work, but this shop is ARB certified and with potential seal issues, I'd rather have parts and labor warrantied.

most of the cost was supposedly the IFS gears. I expected around $3,500 start to finish, but $4,500... nope

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Yes. Go to a shop that will warranty it. Sometimes they're broken out of the box. It's rare. The most common issue is the runout out of spec leading to gear noise. But it happens. Mine has a failed return mechanism and won't fully open. So... it had top come back out. It's been a bit of a nightmare. Arb will not generally warranty the setup or install labor regardless of what the warranty language seems to say. The front is a huge PITA to setup. Doing it multiple times is not fun... I would probably skip the arb and go for a harrop. The extra $ seems like a lot now, but after the first issue it'll seem like a drop in the bucket.

ARB front locker ratchet noisef


EDIT - After this post I ended up working with a different tech at ARB and they did warranty the locker and the labor at an ARB dealer to replace my unit that had issues. It seemed like after dealing with the first person, everything went much smoother. ARB in the end was pretty good about standing behind the product. The second one had similar noise and they warrantied again and I ended up selling the 3rd one rather than installing again. I think the problem I had is in the spider gears now being forged rather than machined. Forged are stronger than machined billet - but they're noisy due to how they are shaped I think. Probably heavy oil weight or some additive possibly would help quiet it down, but it was pretty noisy - especially noticeable with street tires. Too much noise for me in my daily driver. Probably wouldn't have been an issue if it weren't also used for a lot of road trips. In my FJ40 I wouldn't have ever known it was an issue because the tires are so loud anyway.

ARB sent me a new 3rd unit and I ended up selling it.

So I bought a tjm air locker since the design seems to be less prone to failure than ARB. THe problem is that its not compatible with 4.56 gears... found out on the packing slip, which was irritating to say the least.

Since this thread is pretty old, has any company started making a regear for the transfer case? to get to the same rpms at each gear that a 4.56 diff regear would accomplish?

Hey guys,

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but....

I am up in Alaska, I want to regear to 4.56. It will cost me about $3500. Stuff is expensive up here.

I have heard lots of pros to doing it.

Are there any Cons?

Thanks a ton for all your input.

Owen

MadeInMaine said:

Hey guys,

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but....

I am up in Alaska, I want to regear to 4.56. It will cost me about $3500. Stuff is expensive up here.

I have heard lots of pros to doing it.

Are there any Cons?

Thanks a ton for all your input.

Owen

Click to expand...

Yes, higher RPMs at highway speeds. And the cost.

MadeInMaine said:

Hey guys,

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but....

I am up in Alaska, I want to regear to 4.56. It will cost me about $3500. Stuff is expensive up here.

I have heard lots of pros to doing it.

Are there any Cons?

Thanks a ton for all your input.

Owen

Click to expand...

I went with 4.88's and I'm on 35x12.5x17 tires

so rpm I'm roughly around 2500 to 2600rpm doing 70mph on the speedo but 75mph corrected ... 3000 to 3100rpm doing 80mph on the speedo but 85mph corrected.

maybe my rig is a heavy pig but 5350lbs and mpg's super suxs 9 to 10mpg on the city and 11 to 13mpg on all freeway doing 70 to 75mph ( on shitty Komifornia HIGH Ethanol gas ) ...

but wheeling / crawling it great having high gear.

only down side for me is your speedo is slightly off and your odometer

Do can I recalibrate the speedo and odometer?

Is there any benefit (other than a little more power) to getting 4.56 or 4.88?

Any benefits to getting the 4.56 instead of the 4.88? MPGs? etc....

thanks

Owen

MadeInMaine said:

Do can I recalibrate the speedo and odometer?

Is there any benefit (other than a little more power) to getting 4.56 or 4.88?

Any benefits to getting the 4.56 instead of the 4.88? MPGs? etc....

thanks

Owen

Click to expand...

honestly I havent looking into recalibrating the speedo ... Last I looked was 2yrs ago there wasnt anything out there. as in specific for the 4runner

Hi all,

I have a 20 TRD PRO and I upgraded my tires and wheels to 285/70r17 which are essentially 33" I noticed that I lost a bit of power and my MPG sucks even more. I plan on adding rock sliders, a winch (modified stock front bumper) and a Wilco hitchgate.

I don't think I will be going to add any armors or change the stock bumpers. Should I go with a 4.88 ratio? or stick to 4.56??

point1 said:

Hi all,

I have a 20 TRD PRO and I upgraded my tires and wheels to 285/70r17 which are essentially 33" I noticed that I lost a bit of power and my MPG sucks even more. I plan on adding rock sliders, a winch (modified stock front bumper) and a Wilco hitchgate.

I don't think I will be going to add any armors or change the stock bumpers. Should I go with a 4.88 ratio? or stick to 4.56??

Click to expand...

4.88's will spin some RPMs at 80 mph.

Mine stock (IIRC) did 2200 at 80. So 2200(4.88/3.73)(31.5/32.7) = 2770 rpm at 80 mph.

2200(4.56/3.73)(31/33) = 2590 rpm at 80 mph. True tire diameter will change it a bit.

point1 said:

Hi all,

I have a 20 TRD PRO and I upgraded my tires and wheels to 285/70r17 which are essentially 33" I noticed that I lost a bit of power and my MPG sucks even more. I plan on adding rock sliders, a winch (modified stock front bumper) and a Wilco hitchgate.

I don't think I will be going to add any armors or change the stock bumpers. Should I go with a 4.88 ratio? or stick to 4.56??

Click to expand...

I just upgraded my gears. I was going to do a full write up on it, but I’ll give you my reply here.

I have 33s, a 2” lift, C4 LoPro bumper and winch up front. That is my daily driver.
When I go camping, it is fully loaded with kids, dogs, gear, and I pull a Turtleback Trailer (less than 2k lbs fully loaded with water).

I currently live in Alaska, and the hills are plentiful to climb to get to destinations.

My MPGs were approximately 17 solo, and 12.5 with the trailer. I will
Say I drive like a grandpa (I don’t accelerate heavy at all and top off at 70-75, because my dogs are in the back).

I upgraded to 4.56
AMAZING!!!
I instantly noticed a bit more pep just driving home. And when I put the trailer on, it was incredible.

Now, with 4.56, I have averaging almost 18mpgs solo, and 14 with my trailer.

My rev change:
Stock... Solo, doing 70, I was at 21/2200
With trailer, doing 70, around 26/2700

4.56..... solo, at 70mph, 24/2500
With trailer, at 70 mph, 25/2600
I will also say that with the new gears, I am not constantly shifting at higher speeds on the hills. Even on the flats, it holds 70mph way easier

Some of the best money I have put into the vehicle.

If anyone has more questions, just let me know.

MadeInMaine said:

I just upgraded my gears. I was going to do a full write up on it, but I’ll give you my reply here.

I have 33s, a 2” lift, C4 LoPro bumper and winch up front. That is my daily driver.
When I go camping, it is fully loaded with kids, dogs, gear, and I pull a Turtleback Trailer (less than 2k lbs fully loaded with water).

I currently live in Alaska, and the hills are plentiful to climb to get to destinations.

My MPGs were approximately 17 solo, and 12.5 with the trailer. I will
Say I drive like a grandpa (I don’t accelerate heavy at all and top off at 70-75, because my dogs are in the back).

I upgraded to 4.56
AMAZING!!!
I instantly noticed a bit more pep just driving home. And when I put the trailer on, it was incredible.

Now, with 4.56, I have averaging almost 18mpgs solo, and 14 with my trailer.

My rev change:
Stock... Solo, doing 70, I was at 21/2200
With trailer, doing 70, around 26/2700

4.56..... solo, at 70mph, 24/2500
With trailer, at 70 mph, 25/2600
I will also say that with the new gears, I am not constantly shifting at higher speeds on the hills. Even on the flats, it holds 70mph way easier

Some of the best money I have put into the vehicle.

If anyone has more questions, just let me know.

Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing. You're setup is fairly common or desired by folks here. Good to see your results and endorsement.

gringo8251 said:

Thanks for sharing. You're setup is fairly common or desired by folks here. Good to see your results and endorsement.

Click to expand...

Agreed
Simple, not crazy, functional.

I did all the work myself.

point1 said:

Hi all,

I have a 20 TRD PRO and I upgraded my tires and wheels to 285/70r17 which are essentially 33" I noticed that I lost a bit of power and my MPG sucks even more. I plan on adding rock sliders, a winch (modified stock front bumper) and a Wilco hitchgate.

I don't think I will be going to add any armors or change the stock bumpers. Should I go with a 4.88 ratio? or stick to 4.56??

Click to expand...

I didn't notice any loss of power when switching to 285/70r17s, but a slight MPG drop. Most people don't recommend regearing unless you go with 34s or higher. Adding a Pedal Commander or similar item, will make your truck's throttle response better, which may negate the feeling of power loss and is a lot cheaper.

MadeInMaine said:

Agreed
Simple, not crazy, functional.

I did all the work myself.

Click to expand...

How was the setup process fir the front diff?

i went 4.88 and not sure if i needed it at all. i stopped driving my 4runner a little while ago. my new rcv axle boots leaked, and i'm due for my 500 mile diff oil change. hopefully when i get my 4runner back, it'll be a better drive.

Until then, my raptor is my DD.