3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

Hey Tim,

Can I suggest "Evaporator replacement" for one of the next vid?

The shop just diagnosed my AC that only lasts charged for a couple weeks and it wasn't the compressor/drier/lines/etc. It was the Evaporator which I believe should be around the time it's getting replaced for our 20 yr old cars.
 
question about timing marks

Hey Tim
Your video on the timing belt replacement and part 2 followup is great.
I am in the middle of a replacement on a 2000 now.
I have looked over a bunch of information on this but just wanted to confirm.

My question is:
If I get the cam gears and crank all positioned on there timing marks (with the new belt installed) can I be sure everything will be in the correct position?

The belt had move on me and I ended up rotating the crank with the belt off to get it back on the TDC mark. I think what makes me question this is the fact that the crank rotates twice for the cam gears to make one rotation.

Just want to make sure I've got it right.

Thanks.
 
crsmith said:
Hey Tim
Your video on the timing belt replacement and part 2 followup is great.
I am in the middle of a replacement on a 2000 now.
I have looked over a bunch of information on this but just wanted to confirm.

My question is:
If I get the cam gears and crank all positioned on there timing marks (with the new belt installed) can I be sure everything will be in the correct position?

The belt had move on me and I ended up rotating the crank with the belt off to get it back on the TDC mark. I think what makes me question this is the fact that the crank rotates twice for the cam gears to make one rotation.

Just want to make sure I've got it right.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
As long as your camshaft and crankshaft timing are lined up correctly then it doesn't matter how many times you rotate the crankshaft or camshafts without the timing belt on. 5vz is a non-interference motor so it doesn't care what you do as long as you have it timed properly when you put the belt back on.
 
Bad Luck said:
As long as your camshaft and crankshaft timing are lined up correctly then it doesn't matter how many times you rotate the crankshaft or camshafts without the timing belt on. 5vz is a non-interference motor so it doesn't care what you do as long as you have it timed properly when you put the belt back on.
Click to expand...

Thanks for answering his question.
 
Thanks for the confirmation. Makes me feel better.

I have ran into something else I wanted to ask about.

Reattaching the cam sprockets with the pin positioned there seems to be some play in the sprocket - I can wiggle the sprocket (left-right) a little bit on the camshaft. Before I torque it down I wanted to know if this is normal or should I look into getting replacement pins.

a video showing the movement.
20200616_185002.mp4 - Google Drive
 
Last edited:
crsmith said:
Thanks for the confirmation. Makes me feel better.

I have ran into something else I wanted to ask about.

Reattaching the cam sprockets with the pin positioned there seems to be some play in the sprocket - I can wiggle the sprocket (left-right) a little bit on the camshaft. Before I torque it down I wanted to know if this is normal or should I look into getting replacement pins.

a video showing the movement.
20200616_185002.mp4 - Google Drive
Click to expand...

I didn't check for play with the cam sprocket connections to the cams so I don't know if what you're experiencing is normal. It does appear to be a fair amount of movement though.
 
UPDATE
I picked up 2 new PINs from dealer. They have the same play in them. I have searched a lot and am unable to find anyone referencing this same play.
The pins do not fit snugly in either the hole in the end of the camshaft or the sprocket slot.
Not sure what to do at this point but to torque them down and finish the install and hope for the best.
I can get the marks lined up but with the play it probably will be close but not deadnuts for sure.

Wondering if there are any other timing marks other than the cover and arrow on the sprocket?
 
crsmith said:
UPDATE
I picked up 2 new PINs from dealer. They have the same play in them. I have searched a lot and am unable to find anyone referencing this same play.
The pins do not fit snugly in either the hole in the end of the camshaft or the sprocket slot.
Not sure what to do at this point but to torque them down and finish the install and hope for the best.
I can get the marks lined up but with the play it probably will be close but not deadnuts for sure.

Wondering if there are any other timing marks other than the cover and arrow on the sprocket?
Click to expand...

Two things to think about are 1. This may just be backlash that the engineers accounted for since the belt moves in one direction it would never wiggle while the engine is on (this is the most likely thing) 2. Maybe the holes have wallowed out with movement if the sprockets were not torqued properly (I would think you would have other issues going on if this was the case).
 
I think you're probably right with #1.
All videos I have watched they never test the fit the sprocket - they just put the sprocket on the camshaft with the pins and torque them down in whatever fashion. I am pretty sure this is the first time they have been off (282K). And they are in very static positon once they are in place so should be no wear.
I will update once I get back together in case it may help someone down the road.
 
Rear Hatch Wiring Repair

This video shows how to fix a problem that can happen with our rigs over time from the opening and closing of the rear hatch. The wires that lead from the body to the hatch can fatigue over time and break or the sheathing cracks and the wires could ground out. This video shows you how you can go about repairing the wires so you can once again have a working rear window and/or working rear wiper.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fhnQzx2BTUo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
steering problems

looking for advice. Recently my steering has been getting really stiff when approaching full lock and I dont know why. I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I joined the forum for advice.

Rig
97 4runner on 295/70/r16, 2.5in lift
 
fiona_4runner said:
looking for advice. Recently my steering has been getting really stiff when approaching full lock and I dont know why. I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I joined the forum for advice.

Rig
97 4runner on 295/70/r16, 2.5in lift
Click to expand...

Try the Power Steering flush first. I beieve Tim has a video on that.
 
Outbound Nevada Molle Panel Installation

If you're in the market for cargo carrying mods, this one might interest you.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nIOzIhN3Uo8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Door Lock Actuator Repair

If you have a non-functioning door lock, there's a good chance it's just because the little RC motor that cycles the lock has failed. The video walks you through the steps of removing the door lock assembly from the door, cracking open the door lock actuator to replace the motor and then shows you how to get it all put back together.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2aFHMtlnKxA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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