1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

cruise control racket

need to tie up some looose ends before I go much further. I need to mount the little ARB air compressor and I did this on my other truck but now that plasma robot exists I need a better non cave man bracket to bump the cruise module over to make some room. I know I have seen several different versions of this setup but one thing that always bothered me about those designs is not being able to get at the air box mount after the relocation. I will elaborate father down into the post.

cut this version out of 16 gauge and it's a bit skimpy after all is said and done so... will need to bump up to maybe 14 gauge for a rock solid mount.
<a href="https://imgur.com/DJBKtLN"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/DJBKtLNl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

once we are all bent up and globby welds
<a href="https://imgur.com/itXJOJa"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/itXJOJal.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

keeping the rubber isolating thingy works well
<a href="https://imgur.com/2NbyVeW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/2NbyVeWl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

used stock mounting holds and again, rubber thingy
<a href="https://imgur.com/cqzQ3yV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cqzQ3yVl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

works nicely and we should have plenty of room for more fun and games in that spot. it's a little tight to the MAF but you can still get at everything and unhook stuff.
<a href="https://imgur.com/wemNCqM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wemNCqMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


so here was my gripe, with a 12mm + wabble end you can still get at that pesky bolt for the air box.

<a href="https://imgur.com/MutbhLW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MutbhLWl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/suMmqdN"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/suMmqdNl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/bFwHmNB"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/bFwHmNB.gif" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and I will say if your interested I can cut this for you for like $30. you will have to bend it and weld it or cut your own here is the STL files

cruise bracket support leg final v1.stl - Google Drive
cruise bracket body final v1.stl - Google Drive

sleepydad said:

need to tie up some looose ends before I go much further. I need to mount the little ARB air compressor and I did this on my other truck but now that plasma robot exists I need a better non cave man bracket to bump the cruise module over to make some room. I know I have seen several different versions of this setup but one thing that always bothered me about those designs is not being able to get at the air box mount after the relocation. I will elaborate father down into the post.

cut this version out of 16 gauge and it's a bit skimpy after all is said and done so... will need to bump up to maybe 14 gauge for a rock solid mount.
<a href="https://imgur.com/DJBKtLN"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/DJBKtLNl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

once we are all bent up and globby welds
<a href="https://imgur.com/itXJOJa"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/itXJOJal.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

keeping the rubber isolating thingy works well
<a href="https://imgur.com/2NbyVeW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/2NbyVeWl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

used stock mounting holds and again, rubber thingy
<a href="https://imgur.com/cqzQ3yV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cqzQ3yVl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

works nicely and we should have plenty of room for more fun and games in that spot. it's a little tight to the MAF but you can still get at everything and unhook stuff.
<a href="https://imgur.com/wemNCqM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wemNCqMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


so here was my gripe, with a 12mm + wabble end you can still get at that pesky bolt for the air box.

<a href="https://imgur.com/MutbhLW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MutbhLWl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/suMmqdN"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/suMmqdNl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/bFwHmNB"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/bFwHmNB.gif" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and I will say if your interested I can cut this for you for like $30. you will have to bend it and weld it.

Click to expand...

Between my scarab washer relocation kit and Yota1 arb compressor bracket it’s a ton of work to remove the air box now .. Looks great man.

RR diff lock

you know your bored when your brackets start looking like creepers from minecraft.

<a href="https://imgur.com/SpblYvZ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/SpblYvZl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/oxndyTr"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/oxndyTrl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/81KpLST"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/81KpLSTl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

there we go, snug as a compressor in a rug, ah yea. will still have to make a foot for it but that is pretty easy stuff, and paint it.
<a href="https://imgur.com/Wk5AcTn"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Wk5AcTnl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I found the little brother diff lock switch and so this truck is only going to have rear.. prefect. other switch is for 2000 that needs big boy front and rear.
<a href="https://imgur.com/3XrTHbo"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/3XrTHbol.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

so I started digging into the wire diagrams for the 98 because I also want the magic diff lock light to come on in the combination meter....

the plan is I think using the switch we kick a relay and that relay runs the compressor + solenoid + 12 VDC

not 100% sure but... it might just be as simple as
C10 12 volts brown connector combo meter pin 8 yellow blue(lavender?) Y−L
C11 ground always blue connector combo meter pin 5 B−Y
(not sure if I will have to run a 5 pin to swap the + to - for C11 pin 5 B-Y)

<a href="https://imgur.com/Yqm9Y6q"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Yqm9Y6q.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/HiDBskh"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/HiDBskh.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/jlZSzN6"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/jlZSzN6.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

STL if anybody else wants to try cutting it

ARB compressor CKSA12 v2.stl - Google Drive
ARB CKSA12 support leg final v1.stl - Google Drive

Use the switch for a ground trigger, then hook that up to the rear diff lock trigger wire (Y-L, Yellow-Blue) - it is 'ground-switched' from the factory. Switched 12V from the relay can then run the compressor and air solenoid.

You'll want to pull the cluster to make sure it actually has a bulb in that location, but otherwise, you can attach the wiring down where the diff lock ECU would be in the kick panel.

-Charlie

phattyduck said:

Use the switch for a ground trigger, then hook that up to the rear diff lock trigger wire (Y-L, Yellow-Blue) - it is 'ground-switched' from the factory. Switched 12V from the relay can then run the compressor and air solenoid.

You'll want to pull the cluster to make sure it actually has a bulb in that location, but otherwise, you can attach the wiring down where the diff lock ECU would be in the kick panel.

-Charlie

Click to expand...

I figured it would be - switched and planned on trying this setup before I tried the + switched. Thank you that info is very helpful.

high performance offroad only ARB compressor bushings

When I first put a rear locker in my 2000 it came with the ARB little compressor CKSA12. It works just fine for lockers only.

however the little bushings they send with it are neoprene and break down quickly. Guessing being in the engine room makes this worse because it's not a climate controlled luxury living space. so anyways it only takes a little bit until they break down and become worthless.

<a href="https://imgur.com/YBJymkS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/YBJymkSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

using fusion 360 it's super easy to draw a 1/2 bushing and using the combine with tool feature to create a mold that can then be 3D printed.
<a href="https://imgur.com/QmOdPTv"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/QmOdPTvl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

A quick shot with mold release agent and we are ready to go
<a href="https://imgur.com/iSvUZPx"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/iSvUZPxl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

with love in my heart I poured these all the while stuffing dollar bills into the swear jar. I should maybe cut down on the meth? nah.
<a href="https://imgur.com/Es7yTcr"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Es7yTcrl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

after 24 hours they get gently tapped out of the molds.
<a href="https://imgur.com/av3Tlmg"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/av3Tlmgl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and I now have replacement bushings that are high performance offroad only (not DOT approved for sure)

<a href="https://imgur.com/6WLzHqE"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6WLzHqEl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I need those bushings. Please lmk if you are willing to make me a set

sleepydad said:

using fusion 360 it's super easy to draw a 1/2 bushing and using the combine with tool feature to create a mold that can then be 3D printed.

Click to expand...

Couldn't just find rubber washers on McMaster, eh?

:becky:

-Charlie

Pj Benn said:

I need those bushings. Please lmk if you are willing to make me a set

Click to expand...

I mean I would make some more but by the time you paid for the shipping to the middle of ocean I'm guessing it might be easier for you to source the materials local? here is the .stl file, just find a friend with a 3d printer.

half bush.stl - Google Drive

you will need to print 8x of them, tool my slow old printer like 35 mins to complete the task.

I would have to guess somebody out there in paradise has poly mix?

phattyduck said:

Couldn't just find rubber washers on McMaster, eh?

:becky:

-Charlie

Click to expand...

I hunted around for a while and could not find anything that was mall parking lot speed bump send it ready.

11 billion + yet another design of fuse mounting locations

I know everybody has their own needs and I don't need 20+ new fuse locations to run a laser light and train horn that can be heard from 50 miles away, yet.

But I do need power for the ARB compressor + solenoid + indicator light + 30 amp inside ACC trigger based for some seat heaters.

This is the first part engine room fuse box location with a re-settable 30 amp breaker. tucked them up into the only place really on these trucks on the battery side.

<a href="https://imgur.com/kxuWg7w"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kxuWg7wl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

here are the brackets, custom copper buss bar and the final version with the speed holes to reduce weight thus giving me +5 hp. I will need to come up with a simple 3d printed cover to protect the buss bar and fuses in general.

<a href="https://imgur.com/7DNpFxY"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/7DNpFxYl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I don't think you can call this sketchy anymore. Awesome build and some serious skills.

final with STL files

everything turned out pretty good, was fun project.

final in the truck

<a href="https://imgur.com/pJimcC5"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/pJimcC5l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

from the front
<a href="https://imgur.com/MWwI9nD"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MWwI9nDl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and a booty shot
<a href="https://imgur.com/ozJB98o"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ozJB98ol.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

ST Blade Compact Fuse Blocks - 4 Circuits - Blue Sea Systems

285-Series - Blue Sea Systems
any surface mount should work out but I only felt I needed 30 amps right now.
285-Series Circuit Breaker - Surface Mount 30A - Blue Sea Systems

STL files all models are in mm
fuse block top support v9.stl - Google Drive
fuse block 2nd support leg V1 v3.stl - Google Drive
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lIHx8VgsVBXDCekuOKW7TmmzqY3vzFvv/view?usp=sharing

ARB line clips

As I very very slowly move along at a snails pace. I have routed the ARB air lines a couple of time and I think this is finally the location that has given me the most fun /s during the install but also the best out of the way routing.

note: yes I had the entire truck professionally sprayed with fluid film, it's a nightmare to work on now because yes your covered in fluid film. This is price I pay for my ancestors settling in the salt belt.

no zip ties this time. custom clips
<a href="https://imgur.com/sAzkRyG"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/sAzkRyGl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

they clip on with a little effort but also hold really nice, they can come off but they are just what you would expect. yea kind of a *****. But they work well.
<a href="https://imgur.com/So0wuSI"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/So0wuSIl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

The STL for the clip, one side is for 4.75 mm brake line and the other is for the 6 mm arb line.
ARB line clip to brake v4.stl - Google Drive

starting up in the engine room.
<a href="https://imgur.com/a1CBdfi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/a1CBdfil.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

heading out along the top of the firewall with the cluster fock of brake lines.
<a href="https://imgur.com/GU55HQm"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/GU55HQml.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

heading down and along the brake lines
<a href="https://imgur.com/9uz78hL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/9uz78hLl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

past the union

<a href="https://imgur.com/yVhiXFi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/yVhiXFil.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and that is the last pict I took, was covered in fluid film at this point and I was pretty angry in general, but happy it was over.

the weather has been unbelievably nice in MN, I got the chance to golf 9 holes with my son. anybody who has teenagers might have an idea how special it is when you get them away from the electronics and we pretty much had the course to ourselves. the weather was glorious and my parents moved onto the course now so we took an extra 30-40 balls with us. My mom walks the course every evening and has buckets of balls for us when we come. we lost our fair share but told her we left some out there for her to find again.

<a href="https://imgur.com/b4QR8Jp"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/b4QR8Jpl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

cabin fuse box

finally got done with this one... now both of these setups are the same between both my trucks. very happy with the results. as always under the dash sucks.

3d printed a nice little mounting plate. this time I decided to use the melt in brass knurled nuts M4. love the fact I don't have to mess with little nylock nuts, just screw it down and be done with it.
M3 M4 M5 Female Thread Brass Knurled Threaded Insert Embedment Nuts Assortment Kit, Pressed Fit into Holes for 3D Prints and More Projects-300PCS: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

stl link. if you print it just make sure the chamfer on the holes is up. this way as you melt your knurled nuts into it they self center.
cabin fuse V1 v6.stl - Google Drive

<a href="https://imgur.com/Jlhf1e4"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Jlhf1e4l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

picked up an honest to goodness 30 amp rated relay with the correctly sized wires.

4-Wire Relay Socket – CE Auto Electric Supply
Tyco / Bosch 30/20 Amp Relay – CE Auto Electric Supply

ground bar
Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 100 Amp Mini BusBar with 5 screws and a cover, 2314 : Boating Battery Switches : Sports & Outdoors

fuse box
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1MS1K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

<a href="https://imgur.com/V1sG58y"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/V1sG58yl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and installed... some of my old wires are little short but everything is out of the way so I think it's fine.

<a href="https://imgur.com/qbH0qkx"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qbH0qkxl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/E4OD0GC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/E4OD0GC.gif" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

What kinda filament did you use for that? I’m afraid to use PLA for 4Runner parts because I’ve had parts warp in the sun in a matter of minutes.

thezentree said:

What kinda filament did you use for that? I’m afraid to use PLA for 4Runner parts because I’ve had parts warp in the sun in a matter of minutes.

Click to expand...

PLA works fine for anything interior and not exposed to UV. I did hatch bushings june 2020 and they still look fine.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3502697-post186.html

however.... as I'm finding out right now the PLA cannot put up with recurring heat in the engine bay. I ordered them professional ABS a couple of days ago and when they come I update the ARB clip info and we will see how they hold up.

I think in general as long as it's not in direct sunlight and or exposed to heat above 150 F for long periods of time PLA is an ok choice. ABS or Nylon is better but... it's a ***** to print with low end printers.

I have been kicking around the idea this winter of doing the voron 2.4 build and making a more capable setup for higher temp stuff. The carbon fiber infused ABS stuff is really interesting but it's still pretty expensive.

One of the guys on youtube who is pretty resourceful and I subscribed to him a couple of years ago I think anyways..

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ymJ7x7K-1u0" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I don't like putting things out unless I know they worked ok for me. But I have ordered some of the ApolloX ASA fillament, just have not given it a go yet. it's a little expensive for filliment but it's really not that bad as long as your not printing body panels with it I supose.

Amazon.com: FormFutura ApolloX ASA 1.75mm Black 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy < +/- 0.05mm : Industrial & Scientific

sleepydad said:

PLA works fine for anything interior and not exposed to UV. I did hatch bushings june 2020 and they still look fine.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3502697-post186.html

however.... as I'm finding out right now the PLA cannot put up with recurring heat in the engine bay. I ordered them professional ABS a couple of days ago and when they come I update the ARB clip info and we will see how they hold up.

I think in general as long as it's not in direct sunlight and or exposed to heat above 150 F for long periods of time PLA is an ok choice. ABS or Nylon is better but... it's a ***** to print with low end printers.

I have been kicking around the idea this winter of doing the voron 2.4 build and making a more capable setup for higher temp stuff. The carbon fiber infused ABS stuff is really interesting but it's still pretty expensive.

One of the guys on youtube who is pretty resourceful and I subscribed to him a couple of years ago I think anyways..

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ymJ7x7K-1u0" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I don't like putting things out unless I know they worked ok for me. But I have ordered some of the ApolloX ASA fillament, just have not given it a go yet. it's a little expensive for filliment but it's really not that bad as long as your not printing body panels with it I supose.

Amazon.com: FormFutura ApolloX ASA 1.75mm Black 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy < +/- 0.05mm : Industrial & Scientific

Click to expand...

Your IM function seems like my work Skype haha.

Thanks for tagging me for your edit. That's a cool video and is pretty impressive. I've been hearing a lot lately about ASA for, uh, 2A-related items, so I'm interested to see it being used in automotive applications too.

There aren't a whole lot of underhood things I want to print right now, but there are definitely a handful of interior parts I want to make, and for how hot it gets here in the summer I'm worried they'd warp. Sounds like ASA might be the ticket for that.

OCD is kick'en in again

I have only broken a wheel stud once but for some strange reason I have always wanted to have a little box to hold 3 fronts + 3 rears + 6 old school lug nuts. No idea why so... to the bat cave!

<a href="https://imgur.com/r4Ua9Ct"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/r4Ua9Ctl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

it fits nice into the center console (99 version as tested)
<a href="https://imgur.com/YxJztiX"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/YxJztiXl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

STL of the box
wheel stud repair box.stl - Google Drive

STL of the top
wheel stud repair box top.stl - Google Drive

note: I printed the bottom out of TPU, it's soft kind of like rubber or neoprene. the top is just PLA so it's hard, but with the body soft it makes no rattles whatsoever. the first box I printed was all out of PLA and it did make some rattles... was never able to get snug as a lug in a rug OMG that is terrible I love it.

anyways, I can now go to the mall and not worry if I break a lug or lose my nuts. again sleepy! stop it.

front seats get special treat

these are really nice covers, they are thick and make the seats nice and firm. the install was much more difficult because the leather is full grain and it's a battle for everything.

the head rests were actually pretty easy, you take a zip loc bag and put the old cover in. use a shop vac to create a crunch zone and you can then compress the old headrest and get the new covers on. lemon squeezy really.

They are made in Pakistan, that is where the shipment source was marked.
Toyota 4Runner SR5 (Gen 3) 1996-2002 Leather Replacement Seat Covers | Ridies.com

<a href="https://imgur.com/BNf6SrD"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/BNf6SrDl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/ZHH7JxC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ZHH7JxCl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/AjzXO7t"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/AjzXO7tl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/QwvRHjT"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/QwvRHjTl.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/jGJosrZ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/jGJosrZl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/AOW262Y"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/AOW262Yl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/MFgho4U"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MFgho4Ul.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Senior Blue Purrito III approved, yes that is really his name
<a href="https://imgur.com/jmowgph"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/jmowgphl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Introducing Speedberrie

This is becoming my sons first truck, you have to start them out on the correct path. So in that process the truck has gotten a new official name.

SpeedBerrie!

<a href="https://imgur.com/dVUWpdh"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/dVUWpdh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>