Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

Question on Lift Specs

After scouring every corner of this forum and the web beyond, I'm pretty much settled on a lift for my '22 ORP. The 4R will see 80% suburb/city/hwy driving and 20% light off-road use. That being said, the ever-expanding and perpetual construction nature of my part of town makes for some terrible surfaces that could put some trials to shame. Also, now that I'll have the capability again, the time spent off-road may increase. Multi-hour highway road trips and beach excursions will occupy more time than rock climbing or "hardcore wheeling."

I'm currently sitting at 20" mid hub to fender in the front and 22.75" in back. 2.75" of rake.

I definitely want 2.5" of lift up front and am trying to decide between 1.5" or 2" in the rear.

I do like some rake. It currently sits at 2.75" of rake.

I'd like to err on the safe side with slightly more rake (more as in 2" vs 1", not more as in more than 2.75") and could switch out springs later, but I've read several posts where people say they get up to an inch over what the springs say in the rear. Any opinions on this?

The only additional weight will be a TRD skid plate up front. Nothing in the rear or up top for the foreseeable future.

I'll being going the IMS route (my choice) and adding 285s after the lift (fitment as needed).

Mike's recommendations:
Front Coils- C59-302 - Stock - 2.5" | with 110-150lbs - 2"
Front Struts- IMS59-50700 - IMS non-resi monotube, adjustable height (0-3" lift)
Rear Coils- C59-505 - 1.5" with stock weight OR C59-325 - 2" with stock weight
Rear Shocks- IMS59-50705 - IMS non-resi monotube - comfort valved for light rigs (0-2.5" lift)
Dobinsons UCAs
Extended Rear Swaybar End Link Kit

Any thoughts/advice on the 2.5/1.5 or 2.5/2 dilemma? Nitpicking to death? Also.. did any of yall do the diff drop with only 2.5" of lift up front? Any added benefit to it? I'm assuming it would have been recommended it is actually necessary or if there is a benefit.

A big thanks to Mike and to all of Yall!
 
SouthCenTX said:
After scouring every corner of this forum and the web beyond, I'm pretty much settled on a lift for my '22 ORP. The 4R will see 80% suburb/city/hwy driving and 20% light off-road use. That being said, the ever-expanding and perpetual construction nature of my part of town makes for some terrible surfaces that could put some trials to shame. Also, now that I'll have the capability again, the time spent off-road may increase. Multi-hour highway road trips and beach excursions will occupy more time than rock climbing or "hardcore wheeling."

I'm currently sitting at 20" mid hub to fender in the front and 22.75" in back. 2.75" of rake.

I definitely want 2.5" of lift up front and am trying to decide between 1.5" or 2" in the rear.

I do like some rake. It currently sits at 2.75" of rake.

I'd like to err on the safe side with slightly more rake (more as in 2" vs 1", not more as in more than 2.75") and could switch out springs later, but I've read several posts where people say they get up to an inch over what the springs say in the rear. Any opinions on this?

The only additional weight will be a TRD skid plate up front. Nothing in the rear or up top for the foreseeable future.

I'll being going the IMS route (my choice) and adding 285s after the lift (fitment as needed).

Mike's recommendations:
Front Coils- C59-302 - Stock - 2.5" | with 110-150lbs - 2"
Front Struts- IMS59-50700 - IMS non-resi monotube, adjustable height (0-3" lift)
Rear Coils- C59-505 - 1.5" with stock weight OR C59-325 - 2" with stock weight
Rear Shocks- IMS59-50705 - IMS non-resi monotube - comfort valved for light rigs (0-2.5" lift)
Dobinsons UCAs
Extended Rear Swaybar End Link Kit

Any thoughts/advice on the 2.5/1.5 or 2.5/2 dilemma? Nitpicking to death? Also.. did any of yall do the diff drop with only 2.5" of lift up front? Any added benefit to it? I'm assuming it would have been recommended it is actually necessary or if there is a benefit.

A big thanks to Mike and to all of Yall!
Click to expand...
Hey man, thanks for posting!!

All of the lift heights we list are based on an average stock height of 20" front and 22" rear. Looks like your rear is taller than many others or perhaps so new that it hasn't settled yet. The older the vehicle, the more the suspension will be settled, so when those people lift, they may measure more lift than the coils say, but they're not accounting for sagged older springs, or if their truck came lower from the factory. I've seen new 4Runners at just 21.25" in the rear, it's really odd how varied they can be.

325's sit at 24-24.25" once settled.

The list of parts you have is the most common sold. You don't need a diff drop kit with that setup, there's really no benefit at that height and without the extended travel struts.
 
A customer shared this great shot of the stock CV boots on the left and then the Dobinsons high clearance silicone boots installed on the right. You can see that the CV can take more angle without the boot rubbing against itself, which is generally the cause of wear over time. Also, since they're silicone, they can flex and take a bit more of a beating without tearing as easily as the stock rubber boots. Something to consider the next time you feel like changing out the CV boots.

Dobinsons High Clearance Outer CV Stretch Boot Kit | Tacoma 4Runner FJ Cruiser GX470 GX460

Dobinsons High Clearance Inner CV Stretch Boot Kit | Tacoma 4Runner FJ Cruiser GX470 GX460
 

Attachments

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Crikeymike said:
Hey man, thanks for posting!!

All of the lift heights we list are based on an average stock height of 20" front and 22" rear. Looks like your rear is taller than many others or perhaps so new that it hasn't settled yet. The older the vehicle, the more the suspension will be settled, so when those people lift, they may measure more lift than the coils say, but they're not accounting for sagged older springs, or if their truck came lower from the factory. I've seen new 4Runners at just 21.25" in the rear, it's really odd how varied they can be.

325's sit at 24-24.25" once settled.

The list of parts you have is the most common sold. You don't need a diff drop kit with that setup, there's really no benefit at that height and without the extended travel struts.
Click to expand...

Hi Mike. This is what I have read about the starting points for measurement. But, I am finding after reading through this entire thread that the lifted measured heights vary even using the 20F 22R. There is a very short thread on another forum I'll link below about installed heights. I think it's only 11 posts or so and would love if you could look over it and give any feedback?

I am looking to go with a twin tube set up pretty mild. I am looking at the 599 for the rear, and either the 238 or 296 for the front. The problem I am having before I order is that I am finding many 599's get 1.5'' or so. I have also seen different measured height for the 238/296. Here is one post from that thread.

"I just installed the C59-296/C59-599 combination which is supposed to give +1.5" front and +1" rear from a baseline of 20" front & 22" rear.

I got about +2.1" front. In the rear I got +1.5" RDriver and +2" RPass. I'm hoping it settles all around. Sounds like fronts usually settle as the rubber compresses, but not so much in the rear.

Seems like everyone gets at least +1.5" rear from the C59-599's. They really should change what they advertise on those ones..."

Wondering what your thought's are on this? Most likely will have to give you a ring and talk it out before I order. Thank you for your time! Best, Greg

LINK BELOW

Measuring Lift Height After Dobinson Lift Kit | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]
 
[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION],Crikeymike

Hello Mike. Would you mind talking about the different ride heights in the link provided in my last post? I am set on Dobinsons but the varying height numbers are holding me back from ordering. Some insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
 
gjcarving said:
[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION],Crikeymike

Hello Mike. Would you mind talking about the different ride heights in the link provided in my last post? I am set on Dobinsons but the varying height numbers are holding me back from ordering. Some insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Click to expand...

People measure before their installs are done sometimes and report unsettled, and unloaded lift heights. How many people are reporting back a month or two after the install and their suspension has settled? Not many at all.

Not everyone has the same weight. Some have a 3rd row seat, that reduces the rear height by 1/4". Some people have removed their 2nd row seat, adding lift height.

Did they install it right? Not installing the coils correctly can easily add 1/2" more lift if they just aren't rotated correctly, and if the top mount is not seated correctly.

There a lot of variables in the vehicles. Go to a dealership, measure 5 4Runners and you'll get 5 different results. Some come out at just 21" hub to fender in the rear, and some are 22.5".

There will be variances is what I'm saying.

And to repeat myself over and over again, a brand new install has not settled or broken in yet and it takes at least 500 miles of actual driving (where the suspension cycles up and down) for the suspension to break in and sit at its final ride height. Even the guy you quoted "JUST INSTALLED"....
 
Crikeymike said:
People measure before their installs are done sometimes and report unsettled, and unloaded lift heights. How many people are reporting back a month or two after the install and their suspension has settled? Not many at all.

Not everyone has the same weight. Some have a 3rd row seat, that reduces the rear height by 1/4". Some people have removed their 2nd row seat, adding lift height.

Did they install it right? Not installing the coils correctly can easily add 1/2" more lift if they just aren't rotated correctly, and if the top mount is not seated correctly.

There a lot of variables in the vehicles. Go to a dealership, measure 5 4Runners and you'll get 5 different results. Some come out at just 21" hub to fender in the rear, and some are 22.5".

There will be variances is what I'm saying.

And to repeat myself over and over again, a brand new install has not settled or broken in yet and it takes at least 500 miles of actual driving (where the suspension cycles up and down) for the suspension to break in and sit at its final ride height. Even the guy you quoted "JUST INSTALLED"....
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply and all the info you said. Yes, I quoted someone that had just installed and probably should have left that out. Just saw others the said theirs never settled much.

That being said, I am still going to go with Dobinsons as the quality and ride reports seem to be what I am looking for.

I am not the norm and like the rake especially when loaded. I am looking at a low lift height for some clearance. I like the stock rake look at give or take 20/22. Which do you think would suit me best. 238/599 or 296/599? There is a great pic of someone on here with the 238 but I can't find it. And the 296 seems less common than most. One thing I definetly don't want to do is add more forward rake and be higher in the rear. I'll probably give you a ring in the near future. Is there another end of summer sale planned? Looking at full kit plus probably sliders.

Thank you again for answering! I am sure you get it all the time. I guess I'm just a bit more OCD as I will be running stock size KO2's. Thank you again, and hope this finds you well!

Best, Greg
 
Pic time:

Dobinsons C59-327 coils with all the static weight:

IMG-5514-2.jpg


IMG-5515-2.jpg


IMG-5517-2.jpg


Dobinsons C59-701v coils with all the static weight:

IMG-5842.jpg


IMG-5843.jpg


IMG-5845.jpg


Perfect rake!

So after two years of suspension, bumpers, racks, tires, wheels, etc... I'm done!
 
Finslayer83 said:
Pic time:

Perfect rake!

So after two years of suspension, bumpers, racks, tires, wheels, etc... I'm done!
Click to expand...

I'm thinking of doing the same switch from 327 to 701v. How's the ride with the 701v? I like the lift and extra articulation they give, but was concerned they would feel too mushy and bouncy given the softer spring rate vs the 327.
 
Motory said:
I'm thinking of doing the same switch from 327 to 701v. How's the ride with the 701v? I like the lift and extra articulation they give, but was concerned they would feel too mushy and bouncy given the softer spring rate vs the 327.
Click to expand...

They are firmer than the 327's IMO.

Mike (if i recall what he said) told me that the 701's are the firmer option of the long travel over the 677 offering. I could have got that wrong, but they are firm.

With the weight I have on there it rides +/- the same as it did before I had the bumper on and just my drawers. 701's handle the weight wonderfully.
 
Finslayer83 said:
Pic time:

Dobinsons C59-327 coils with all the static weight:

IMG-5514-2.jpg


IMG-5515-2.jpg


IMG-5517-2.jpg


Dobinsons C59-701v coils with all the static weight:

IMG-5842.jpg


IMG-5843.jpg


IMG-5845.jpg


Perfect rake!

So after two years of suspension, bumpers, racks, tires, wheels, etc... I'm done!
Click to expand...

loving the ride but i got a question.. who makes the tire cover? thanks
 
Are there many folks out there running just the coils and not the struts?
I’m looking for a 1, 1.5 inch lift, but really some stiffening up. It looks like there are coils that would do the job, just haven’t seen many people running the coils with stock struts.
 
Ryance39 said:
Are there many folks out there running just the coils and not the struts?
I’m looking for a 1, 1.5 inch lift, but really some stiffening up. It looks like there are coils that would do the job, just haven’t seen many people running the coils with stock struts.
Click to expand...

I've helped a lot of people fo just that, but not everyone posts up a review. It's totally fine to do that, as long as the struts don't have a huge amount of miles on them.
 
Howdy. Would the 352s in the front be overkill with like 200 lbs? (C4 LoPro, Smitty winch, RCI alum engine/trans skids). I'm planning on upgrading to the IMS when I cross over the 100k mile mark.
 
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