3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos
- Thread starter mtbtim
- Start date
Michael0789
New member
I did this on my 99 this spring and drove it from PNW to Texas Hill Country in July and August this year. Before the parts swap the trans temp would surge above 200° in town driving. On the shakedown cruise the trans temps stay 30 to 20° below the coolant temperature, as measured by a ScanGage. I never saw the trans temp get to 180°. Outside temps were generally above 100° every day once I got south of the 45th parallel.
When I stopped to take a nap I parked facing into the wind and the engine was happy to idle with the stable and cooler trans temps. I installed the Hayden 699 cooler in series with the new radiator by feeding the return oil into the Hayden. I thought about doing a bypass, but I think it might take 2 of the Hayden coolers to manage the trans temps.
I'm posting this here because there doesn't seem to be much specific info on this topic.
5600 hot miles in all kinds of terrain, but not towing. Might be the second best engine mod I've ever done.
ciao
mtbtim
Elite Member
Not much specific info on this topic? Trans coolers and whether you run them in-series or bypassed is a subject that has been well-covered on this forum and others.
In regards to the Hayden 699 cooler install. I made a video about it in January of this year. If you missed it, you didn't search hard enough. I just did a search on YouTube for the installation of a Hayden 699 cooler and the two videos I made installing them in an FJ Cruiser and my 98 4runner came up on the first page of the search results. On both installs, I bypassed the stock cooler in the radiator and the trans temps are good.
t
Mark_BC
Senior Member
I installed the B&M cooler, bypassing the radiator. It generally runs around 160 F and if I go up a hill without the torque converter locking it heats up fast. So steepish inclines where I'm not able to get 4th gear locked. It goes up to 200 and once it went up to 230 very briefly.
If I'm on an unsealed surface I can put the transfer case in 4LO and it seems to not heat up so much, presumably because the torque converter can lock up at a lower speed. My next step is to find a way to unlock the front / back in 4LO so I can do that on pavement; either from engaging the center differential or installing manual front hubs to unlock.
I was thinking I want a bigger cooler but I think I can manage it with the above changes.
If I'm on an unsealed surface I can put the transfer case in 4LO and it seems to not heat up so much, presumably because the torque converter can lock up at a lower speed. My next step is to find a way to unlock the front / back in 4LO so I can do that on pavement; either from engaging the center differential or installing manual front hubs to unlock.
I was thinking I want a bigger cooler but I think I can manage it with the above changes.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I've used 4Lo on steep sustained mountain ascents to keep my trans temps down which my manual hubs allowed me to do.
Michael0789
New member
Hi. I guess i didn't say that very well. I was referring to the specific RESULTS that i obtained from the mods. I have never found any temperature info resulting from the setup I used. Certainly not 5600 miles of it.
It's not about you sir, at least not on purpose. I did watch your timing belt-water pump video. Like you I follow the FSM. I print the pages for whatever procedure i am doing, and check off each item as I complete it.
Kind of like going down the Columbia and putting a check mark at each buoy on the chart. Or writing the time of a gas stop on the atlas or map.
ciao
It's not about you sir, at least not on purpose. I did watch your timing belt-water pump video. Like you I follow the FSM. I print the pages for whatever procedure i am doing, and check off each item as I complete it.
Kind of like going down the Columbia and putting a check mark at each buoy on the chart. Or writing the time of a gas stop on the atlas or map.
ciao
mtbtim
Elite Member
Gotcha. I didn't take it personal. I was just informing you this topic has been covered quite thoroughly on the forums. You're right that there's not that much information regarding the Hayden 699 setup and the recorded temps.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Front Differential Replacement (Part 2)
This video gives some additional helpful information to make the removal and reinstallation of your front differential much easier.
You will still want to watch Part 1, because it offers most of the information needed to get the job done. Front Differential Replacement (Part 1) - YouTube
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This video gives some additional helpful information to make the removal and reinstallation of your front differential much easier.
You will still want to watch Part 1, because it offers most of the information needed to get the job done. Front Differential Replacement (Part 1) - YouTube
t
mtbtim
Elite Member
Eaton E-Locker Wiring How-to
This video is a companion to our ECGS Toyota 7.5" Front Differential Regear w/ Eaton E-Locker Install video.
If you missed that video, here's a link: ECGS Toyota 7.5" Front Differential Regear w/ Eaton E-Locker Install - YouTube
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This video is a companion to our ECGS Toyota 7.5" Front Differential Regear w/ Eaton E-Locker Install video.
If you missed that video, here's a link: ECGS Toyota 7.5" Front Differential Regear w/ Eaton E-Locker Install - YouTube
t
CoCoCo4Runner
New member
I’m in the final stages of getting my replacement 5VZ swapped in and I have some questions. I elected to keep the transmission in place and unbolt the torque converter (TC) bolts. The engine came out very smoothly, just needed to slightly angle the transmission upwards to get a clean separation.
When reinstalling are there any concerns with the TC? Nothing got caught up or hung up on exit so I’m not too worried anything got damaged. But I read you need to be careful when reinstalling the TC if it is removed, so just want to make sure I’m covered there. I am also aware that the TC bolts need to be installed in a specific order, the darker bolt with stepped shoulder must go on first in order to properly align. Does bolt get mated to a specific hole in the TC? My instinct says no, but I want to double check.
Second question is in relation to the front diff, when the old block came out I noticed this hardline was not connected to anything, does this connection go to the vaccum hose poking out of the diff?
Other than that, I think reinstall should go fairly smoothly, I’ll have some help to guide and align things on the way down. I was able to easily pull the old block myself but considering the fully dressed engine is significantly larger It will be more of a challenge.
Any tips or tricks for a smooth job? I have to swap a few things over before installing, and will probably end up taking the radiator off as well.
Here are some pics! Thanks all, and thank you Tim specifically for your in depth videos.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
When reinstalling are there any concerns with the TC? Nothing got caught up or hung up on exit so I’m not too worried anything got damaged. But I read you need to be careful when reinstalling the TC if it is removed, so just want to make sure I’m covered there. I am also aware that the TC bolts need to be installed in a specific order, the darker bolt with stepped shoulder must go on first in order to properly align. Does bolt get mated to a specific hole in the TC? My instinct says no, but I want to double check.
Second question is in relation to the front diff, when the old block came out I noticed this hardline was not connected to anything, does this connection go to the vaccum hose poking out of the diff?
Other than that, I think reinstall should go fairly smoothly, I’ll have some help to guide and align things on the way down. I was able to easily pull the old block myself but considering the fully dressed engine is significantly larger It will be more of a challenge.
Any tips or tricks for a smooth job? I have to swap a few things over before installing, and will probably end up taking the radiator off as well.
Here are some pics! Thanks all, and thank you Tim specifically for your in depth videos.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Last edited:
mtbtim
Elite Member
You want to make sure the torque converter is fully seated back into the transmission. As for the bolts, that black bolt is supposedly an alignment bolt. You get that one in first and then the others should line up fine. Personally, i don't think it matters. What's most important in my opinion is evenly tightening the 6 bolts drawing the TC to the flex plate. I did many passes turning the engine over and over again to slowly and evenly bring them up to the torque value. If it makes you feel better, bring the black bolt to the torque value first and follow with the others.
The question about the front diff needs to be accompanied by a picture so we know what you're talking about. I've got an idea of what you're referring to but a picture would help.
Some flywheels have an elongated/different hole for the first torque converter bolt to go through. I would compare the holes on the flywheel and see if any are different.
Yes, the vacuum hose for the front diff goes to the metal pipe right next to it. That's the front diff breather and the metal tube extends it up higher into the engine compartment.
CoCoCo4Runner
New member
Sorry Tim, here’s a link. I couldn’t upload it directly to the site but here’s a link.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
mtbtim
Elite Member
The metal breather pipe slips into that short rubber hose section on top of the differential.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Our flex plates have the same holes for every bolt hole. That black bolt is just slightly different and I've heard it helps set the alignment of the flex plate to the torque converter. When I did the job, I didn't notice the difference and just got all the bolts in and then slowly and evenly tightened them down in several passes. I remember some guy saying you should fully tighten and torque that black bolt first and then work on the others. That goes against everything I know about tightening something with multiple fasteners. I'm of the opinion that getting the black bolt in first isn't a big deal. As long as all bolts are installed, gradually tightened, and torqued to spec, you're good to go.
CoCoCo4Runner
New member
Good call, I’ll make a note and check the flex disk as I swap it over! And thank you for confirming the breather hose, I’ll get it hooked up properly
JZiggy
Senior Member
It was awesome filming this with you guys!
Headliner Removal
For future reference for others...
I had to remove my headliner to get to the leaking sunroof/clogged drain hoses. It is possible to get the headliner out without removing all of the plastic trim pieces on the sides. The tops of the trim pieces "pop" out so you can pop them out and back to get to the headliner. Hopefully this helps someone save some time!
You can see the top of the trim pieces are just popped out.
For future reference for others...
I had to remove my headliner to get to the leaking sunroof/clogged drain hoses. It is possible to get the headliner out without removing all of the plastic trim pieces on the sides. The tops of the trim pieces "pop" out so you can pop them out and back to get to the headliner. Hopefully this helps someone save some time!
You can see the top of the trim pieces are just popped out.
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