JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build & Maintenance Thread
- Thread starter JoeT4R
- Start date
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Yesterday when doing the starter job I had to extract the top bolt. So I ended up using the original lower bolt in place of the top bolt. I couldn't get clear and concise information on the p/n for the bolt from Toyota so I went to Home Depot and got this to use for the lower bolt location. It's a tad bit shorter, but it works and is nice and secure. Just wanted to add this in case anyone needs the info for a bolt replacement option.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
I guess I have bad luck or I just don't have the right touch. Beats me.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
After much thought and wanting a particular goody for a while, I decided to pull the trigger on something for the ol 4Runner. No idea when it's going to arrive or when I will get it installed but hopefully it'll be soon! And it's going to be fun to freshen things up for a new look.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Are using 6 point sockets and directly on the heads of the bolts?
flex head sockets and wobble extenders? Has to be a reason for these heads being stripped.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Yes and yes. Ran to Harbor Freight yesterday and grabbed some items to include a 3/8" T-bar with flexible ratchet. I attribute the success of removing that bolt with this coupled with the extractor. I'll put the link to it here.
This allowed us to get the right angle on the bolt without having to use extensions or anything else. Used a 6 point impact socket to reinstall the top bolt, but again used the T-bar for installation. It worked great and I am so glad I have it now.
3/8 in. Drive T-Bar With Flexible Ratchet
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Oh. This is that one starter bolt.. ok. I thought you stripped more heads. My bad. Great Job getting it out.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
I've never stripped a head... And I don't plan to, either! Lol. Thanks Jon.Oh. This is that one starter bolt.. ok. I thought you stripped more heads. My bad. Great Job getting it out.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
What OME springs did you get?
I replaced those with allen head screws.
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A left hand drill often makes easy work of that. If the drill alone doesn't pull them out and easy out hammered in will.New MAF sensor came in today, but my original screws are stripped. So a trip to Harbor Freight in the morning is in line to retrieve a screw extractor set.
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I replaced those with allen head screws.
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JoeT4R
Senior Member
861's, baby. Excited to see the rake. If they don't work out, I always have my LC80 springs to throw back in.
But thank you for the info on the stripped screws. Planning to knock them out today or tomorrow. Today my front diff is getting taken care of, so I really look forward to that. Will post pics later on.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Front differential fluid drain and fill, bolt replacement job.
After I stripped my hex drain bolt last year, it was determined that getting the Lexus fill and drain plugs were a must. Went to a buddies house yesterday and he welded the hex bit onto the drain plug.
Attached the wrench to the socket, went to turn it and crack, the welds broke. So another fat weld was made. Went to turn the wrench, crack, the socket started to come out again. At that point, a neighbor came to take a look. Ended up sanding down the welds that were made, chiseled a notch in the plug and used a hammer to knock the drain bolt loose. Off it came.
I did the math from the last time I did a drain and fill, and this fluid had 110K, yes, 110 thousand miles on it. I will say it was AMSOIL 75W-90 full synthetic. I was surprised to see it being in as good condition as it was, but there were definitely a lot of metal flakes on the drain plug. So new Lexus drain and fill plugs were installed along with new OEM gaskets.
I also didn't buy AMSOIL fluid because I can't really justify $44 for two quarts of gear oil, plus shipping and taxes. So I poured in some Valvoline 75W-90 full synthetic that I got from the local Walmart. And now that I have the Lexus plugs installed, I will be able to perform more regular drain and fills. I will still say that AMSOIL is definitely the king of fluids, in my opinion and experience. Here are some pictures from the job.
Date: 3/21/23
Mileage: 324,002
Here's my boy David putting in some welding work.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52763787481/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_180341"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52763787481_f321bfe1ef_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230321_180341"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Hex socket welded on.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52764267258/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_180603"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52764267258_1a02f1162e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230321_180603"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
110K mile fluid draining out of the diff.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52763787496/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_185231"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52763787496_138eff95cb_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_185231"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
New Lexus plugs installed. SO PRETTY.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52763245317/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_191305"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52763245317_f8263cfd4e_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_191305"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52763245497/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_191317"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52763245497_426ab52d55_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230321_191317"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Sanded down and chiseled notch in the original drain bolt.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52764037894/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_191754"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52764037894_d196776cfc_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_191754"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
You can see the sludge/metallic flake buildup on the shop rag that I wiped off the drain bolt. That stuff was thick and dark, but again, the fluid itself remained pretty clean especially for the mileage.
Edit:
I wanted to add a picture of the stripped drain bolt and its state prior to welding the hex bit on. Photo was taken June 2022, but it still looked the same. Probably a bit dirtier though.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52161196233/in/datetaken/" title="Stripped front diff drain plug (6/20/22)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52161196233_6f0e73fc6e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Stripped front diff drain plug (6/20/22)"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
After I stripped my hex drain bolt last year, it was determined that getting the Lexus fill and drain plugs were a must. Went to a buddies house yesterday and he welded the hex bit onto the drain plug.
Attached the wrench to the socket, went to turn it and crack, the welds broke. So another fat weld was made. Went to turn the wrench, crack, the socket started to come out again. At that point, a neighbor came to take a look. Ended up sanding down the welds that were made, chiseled a notch in the plug and used a hammer to knock the drain bolt loose. Off it came.
I did the math from the last time I did a drain and fill, and this fluid had 110K, yes, 110 thousand miles on it. I will say it was AMSOIL 75W-90 full synthetic. I was surprised to see it being in as good condition as it was, but there were definitely a lot of metal flakes on the drain plug. So new Lexus drain and fill plugs were installed along with new OEM gaskets.
I also didn't buy AMSOIL fluid because I can't really justify $44 for two quarts of gear oil, plus shipping and taxes. So I poured in some Valvoline 75W-90 full synthetic that I got from the local Walmart. And now that I have the Lexus plugs installed, I will be able to perform more regular drain and fills. I will still say that AMSOIL is definitely the king of fluids, in my opinion and experience. Here are some pictures from the job.
Date: 3/21/23
Mileage: 324,002
Here's my boy David putting in some welding work.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52763787481/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_180341"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52763787481_f321bfe1ef_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230321_180341"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Hex socket welded on.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52764267258/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_180603"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52764267258_1a02f1162e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230321_180603"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
110K mile fluid draining out of the diff.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52763787496/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_185231"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52763787496_138eff95cb_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_185231"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
New Lexus plugs installed. SO PRETTY.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52763245317/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_191305"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52763245317_f8263cfd4e_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_191305"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52763245497/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_191317"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52763245497_426ab52d55_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230321_191317"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Sanded down and chiseled notch in the original drain bolt.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52764037894/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_191754"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52764037894_d196776cfc_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_191754"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
You can see the sludge/metallic flake buildup on the shop rag that I wiped off the drain bolt. That stuff was thick and dark, but again, the fluid itself remained pretty clean especially for the mileage.
Edit:
I wanted to add a picture of the stripped drain bolt and its state prior to welding the hex bit on. Photo was taken June 2022, but it still looked the same. Probably a bit dirtier though.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52161196233/in/datetaken/" title="Stripped front diff drain plug (6/20/22)"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52161196233_6f0e73fc6e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Stripped front diff drain plug (6/20/22)"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Last edited:
JoeT4R
Senior Member
MAF Sensor replacement.
My engine threw a P0171. Code indicates a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor, bad o2 sensor, or a vacuum leak. I've done my A/F ratio sensor and o2 sensor both within the past year and a half, both with Denso sensors, so I knew those weren't the problem. Checked under the hood, all hoses were connected properly, so no leaks there at first glance. So, in typical JoeT4R fashion, I ordered a new part and said ah, this will do just the trick.
The problem was, the screws on my sensor were rusted and kind of stripped. After doing some reading on here, I found two options that would help resolve the issue. 1. Order a screw extractor set. 2. Use a dremel to create a notch in the screws that would allow a flat head screwdriver to be used to remove the screws.
After attempting to use the screw extractor set and not having much luck with that, I resorted to the dremel. Immediately yielded positive results. Old sensor came out, new one went in. And so did the old screws, since they still work. :rofl:
I will get new screws, not to worry. I applied anti-seize to the old ones and reinstalled the new sensor. I also hit my throttle body with some cleaner while I had the air box and hoses out. It wasn't filthy, but it was dirty and cleaned up quite nicely. Bolted everything back together, cleared my code and the truck is back to normal. Not sure if I'll notice any increase in mileage or performance, but as long as the truck is operating normally, that's all that matters.
As you can see the OEM sensor on the left is definitely dirty. Could it have just been fixed by cleaning it? Perhaps, I'll never really know. I held onto the old sensor and will keep it in my parts bin. The new Denso unit is working as expected though.
Date: 3/21/23
Mileage: 324,002
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52764194745/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_192227"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52764194745_780cf43ae3_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230321_192227"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
My engine threw a P0171. Code indicates a dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor, bad o2 sensor, or a vacuum leak. I've done my A/F ratio sensor and o2 sensor both within the past year and a half, both with Denso sensors, so I knew those weren't the problem. Checked under the hood, all hoses were connected properly, so no leaks there at first glance. So, in typical JoeT4R fashion, I ordered a new part and said ah, this will do just the trick.
The problem was, the screws on my sensor were rusted and kind of stripped. After doing some reading on here, I found two options that would help resolve the issue. 1. Order a screw extractor set. 2. Use a dremel to create a notch in the screws that would allow a flat head screwdriver to be used to remove the screws.
After attempting to use the screw extractor set and not having much luck with that, I resorted to the dremel. Immediately yielded positive results. Old sensor came out, new one went in. And so did the old screws, since they still work. :rofl:
I will get new screws, not to worry. I applied anti-seize to the old ones and reinstalled the new sensor. I also hit my throttle body with some cleaner while I had the air box and hoses out. It wasn't filthy, but it was dirty and cleaned up quite nicely. Bolted everything back together, cleared my code and the truck is back to normal. Not sure if I'll notice any increase in mileage or performance, but as long as the truck is operating normally, that's all that matters.
As you can see the OEM sensor on the left is definitely dirty. Could it have just been fixed by cleaning it? Perhaps, I'll never really know. I held onto the old sensor and will keep it in my parts bin. The new Denso unit is working as expected though.
Date: 3/21/23
Mileage: 324,002
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52764194745/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_192227"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52764194745_780cf43ae3_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230321_192227"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
JoeT4R
Senior Member
OME 861's went in yesterday. The process was smooth and painless. I also added new metal washers to the upper shock mounts which eliminated the slight rattling noise it was making, so that was super nice.
The washers for the LC80 Tokicos are p/n 90948-02144. So if you're replacing your rear shocks with the LC80 Tokicos, make sure you get the above listed p/n for the washers. They are not included with the new shocks. The new shocks only come with 8 rubber bushings and two new top nuts. 4 bushings for the top shock mount and 4 bushings for the bottom mounts. They are massive. You can also find them online for roughly $12 a piece vs. what I paid for ordering them from a dealer. I'd rather not say, because I am not proud of it.
The LC80 springs came out with relative ease. Removed the wheels, disconnected the sway bar end links, removed the nut on the top of the shaft of the shock, moved the shock out of the way, lifted the opposite side of the axle and literally just reached in there and pulled it out.
Installation of the 861's required me to use a spring compressor. It was my first time using one. I was nervous for sure, but I had absolutely zero issues with using it. It truly made all the difference when putting the new springs in. So for anyone who is going to do the same to their rig, save yourself the headache and rent a spring compressor. I paid $58 to rent one from AutoZone and took it back a few hours later and got my money back.
What I really want to say is-- I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE SAY DON'T GET 861's IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXTRA WEIGHT IN THE BACK. I don't have a rear swingout/tire carrier, armor, off road bumper, nothing in the back. These springs are a lot more firm than the LC80 springs, but they ride incredibly well. I feel like I have fallen in love with my truck all over again. The ride is so nice and smooth, but firm. As I absolutely love it. Going over bumps in the road, train tracks, dips in the road, whatever, is an absolute breeze. I think this combination of 861's with Tokico shocks is an awesome pairing and I would definitely suggest it to anyone who wants a firm but comfortable ride.
I will even say that the LC80 springs were far more bouncy and soft than the 861's. Here are some photos from the job.
Date: 3/22/23
Mileage: 324,052
861's side by side with the LC80 springs
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52765666183/in/datetaken/" title="20230322_151746"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765666183_341a8bca03_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230322_151746"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Rear shocks and sway bar end links disconnected. New metal washers on the rear shock shaft
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52765182206/in/datetaken/" title="20230322_150406"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765182206_b83baa7645_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230322_150406"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
OME 861 with spring compressor attached
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52765666213/in/datetaken/" title="20230322_161607"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765666213_14cedee27f_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230322_161607"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Metal washers for shock mount
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52766325323/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_153739"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52766325323_4d6484bd64_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_153739"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52765299862/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_153742"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765299862_54979ed4bb_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_153742"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
The washers for the LC80 Tokicos are p/n 90948-02144. So if you're replacing your rear shocks with the LC80 Tokicos, make sure you get the above listed p/n for the washers. They are not included with the new shocks. The new shocks only come with 8 rubber bushings and two new top nuts. 4 bushings for the top shock mount and 4 bushings for the bottom mounts. They are massive. You can also find them online for roughly $12 a piece vs. what I paid for ordering them from a dealer. I'd rather not say, because I am not proud of it.
The LC80 springs came out with relative ease. Removed the wheels, disconnected the sway bar end links, removed the nut on the top of the shaft of the shock, moved the shock out of the way, lifted the opposite side of the axle and literally just reached in there and pulled it out.
Installation of the 861's required me to use a spring compressor. It was my first time using one. I was nervous for sure, but I had absolutely zero issues with using it. It truly made all the difference when putting the new springs in. So for anyone who is going to do the same to their rig, save yourself the headache and rent a spring compressor. I paid $58 to rent one from AutoZone and took it back a few hours later and got my money back.
What I really want to say is-- I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE SAY DON'T GET 861's IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXTRA WEIGHT IN THE BACK. I don't have a rear swingout/tire carrier, armor, off road bumper, nothing in the back. These springs are a lot more firm than the LC80 springs, but they ride incredibly well. I feel like I have fallen in love with my truck all over again. The ride is so nice and smooth, but firm. As I absolutely love it. Going over bumps in the road, train tracks, dips in the road, whatever, is an absolute breeze. I think this combination of 861's with Tokico shocks is an awesome pairing and I would definitely suggest it to anyone who wants a firm but comfortable ride.
I will even say that the LC80 springs were far more bouncy and soft than the 861's. Here are some photos from the job.
Date: 3/22/23
Mileage: 324,052
861's side by side with the LC80 springs
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52765666183/in/datetaken/" title="20230322_151746"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765666183_341a8bca03_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="20230322_151746"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Rear shocks and sway bar end links disconnected. New metal washers on the rear shock shaft
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52765182206/in/datetaken/" title="20230322_150406"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765182206_b83baa7645_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230322_150406"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
OME 861 with spring compressor attached
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52765666213/in/datetaken/" title="20230322_161607"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52765666213_14cedee27f_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230322_161607"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Metal washers for shock mount
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52766325323/in/datetaken/" title="20230321_153739"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52766325323_4d6484bd64_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20230321_153739"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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the part number listed is for the metal washers on the top/bottom side of the upper bushings, correct? Quantity of 4? What did you do for the centering washer/cone that goes between the bottom bushing and the upper shock mount?
JoeT4R
Senior Member
The part number is for the metal washers that go to the top of the shock. So in this order starting with the shock removed from the mounting hole: metal washer, bushing, insert shaft into shock mount hole, bushing, metal washer, top nut. You'll only use 2 metal washers per each side on top.
For the bottom shock mount where that bolt is that goes into the stud attached to the diff, I just reused the washers from my 5100's. Hopefully this makes sense. If you want I will be happy to take some close up pictures later on if you want/need me to. Just let me know. I remember you specifically asked me a few months ago about the washers and I wasn't 100% sure at that time.
