08-08-2014, 12:19 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 62
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csp
Yes they did. That's the one bolt you mentioned in the first post of this thread you heard is a PITA.
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Thanks for the clarification on the bolt.
Truck was running great when I dropped it off. Guess the only indication of a job well done will be it running exactly the same.
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12-22-2014, 06:35 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 165
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 165
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I have been getting a lot of quotes on this job for mine. At first I was going to buy one of the kits listed, but none of the shops will warranty it if they don't supply the parts. Even with that, some of the labor estimates were $600.
I finally found a shop I felt good about and they quoted me $675 for OEM parts and labor for the timing belt and water pump.
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2001 T4R SR5 - King 2.5" Coilovers, OME 890, 1" ToyTec BL, 285 Duratracs, CBI Hybrid, Warn M8000
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12-22-2014, 06:59 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Central California
Posts: 6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Central California
Posts: 6
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You guys have some insanely cheap dealerships! My local dealership wanted 1400 for the T belt and another 400 to do the water pump, Im a mechanic and know how to do the repair, but with a broken neck its a bit hard to get up at the moment... A friends shop is going to do it all for 1350, and a trans flush and smog for me. Using real parts. The parts are running 900 alone.
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12-23-2014, 01:54 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 114
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 114
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Jesus, I had mine done as well as the water pump and fan belt for like $250 with parts...pays to know a mechanic personally I guess. I would never even consider going to Toyota. Its straight up robbery. They tried to charge me $50 for a plastic gas cap. The parts guy was ashamed to even tell me the price. I swear Toyota would make more money by charging reasonable prices, then everyone would take their vehicles there. Everyone I know makes a specific effort to avoid going to Toyota.
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12-24-2014, 08:17 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NE OHIO
Posts: 36
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NE OHIO
Posts: 36
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Timing Belt/Water Pump/Idlers/T-stat
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiftmx
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That is a GREAT price for OEM parts. When the time comes, I hope they're still there!
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12-24-2014, 10:27 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Leitchfield, Kentucky
Posts: 8
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Location: Leitchfield, Kentucky
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i agree with powrguy! that is a great price.
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12-24-2014, 10:55 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New Jersey
Age: 56
Posts: 1,963
Real Name: John
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: New Jersey
Age: 56
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Real Name: John
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It will be there. Has been for years. I bought a similar kit off Ebay about 9 months ago. Worked great.
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12-25-2014, 12:58 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 20
Real Name: Jim
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And that bolt has to be replaced once removed.
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12-26-2014, 08:27 AM
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#24
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 138
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 138
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The standard time for a water pump replacement is 3.5 hours. Since the timing belt has to be removed to do the water pump the only cost for a new one with a water pump replacement is the part ($60).
My dealer charges $100 per hour for labor, so for a water pump ($140) and timing belt ($60) I would be looking at around $550.
The are some other parts you may want to replace such as oil seals and tensioners, but that is up to you.
To save some money you can check with your dealer and see if they will agree to install this kit for you - Amazon.com: Aisin TKT-025 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump: Automotive
NOTE - I would pay the $2 extra and get the kit straight from Amazon, with the tensioners you are probably going need add an extra hour of labor for a total of 4.5 hours.
I would also do the exterior drive belts and lower radiator hose...oh and I also recomend this if you are still on the original.. Amazon.com: Aisin FBT-004 Fan Pulley Bracket: Automotive
the fan bracket has to be removed for the water pump, so again you are just in it for the parts cost. If you bearing goes bad later the thing is a PITA to replace..
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12-26-2014, 08:41 AM
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#25
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 138
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsonne
You guys have some insanely cheap dealerships! My local dealership wanted 1400 for the T belt and another 400 to do the water pump, Im a mechanic and know how to do the repair, but with a broken neck its a bit hard to get up at the moment... A friends shop is going to do it all for 1350, and a trans flush and smog for me. Using real parts. The parts are running 900 alone.
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Your dealership is trying to rip you off and if you have a written quote I think you should complain to Toyota directly.
The T Belt has to be removed to do the water pump, so the only cost for the timing belt with a WP replacement should be the cost of the part. The cost right now for a Toyota WP is around $140 and the TB is $60.
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12-26-2014, 01:38 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: CO
Posts: 300
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: CO
Posts: 300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frontier719
i got the timing belt, water pump, and front seal done for $400 with OEM parts but got quotes from $450-900.
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That barely covers the price of the parts....is that friend?
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12-31-2014, 04:44 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Central California
Posts: 6
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Location: Central California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultimatt
Your dealership is trying to rip you off and if you have a written quote I think you should complain to Toyota directly.
The T Belt has to be removed to do the water pump, so the only cost for the timing belt with a WP replacement should be the cost of the part. The cost right now for a Toyota WP is around $140 and the TB is $60.
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Good to know. I am an 1.5hr from the nearest Toyota dealership, 2hr to the next closest. I'll deal with the other dealership from here on out.
And no, I only got a quote over the phone from the service writer, nothing in ink.
My buddy got everything done for me for less than he thought it was going to cost, so he flushed and filled the trans, tcase, and diff's for me.
I should be mobile again by the end of the week, pics and mods will start then.
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12-31-2014, 11:55 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 70
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 70
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Got a OEM kit from Amazon that included tensioner, bearings, belt, waterpump, and instructions for $190 shipped. Pulley holder from Amazon for $50 shipped. Odds and ends from local NAPA $30. Total $270, instructions from T4R.org, one day of my time and elbow grease. Time, money and effort well spent. I'd say try DIY it. My two pennies.
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01-23-2015, 01:01 AM
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#29
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arizona
Age: 61
Posts: 5
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arizona
Age: 61
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I just recently tackled replacing a water pump and TB, and with a quote of $850 and aftermarket parts prices from my current mechanic, my response was heck no. Get the book out and google the internet. My only advice is take your time. Find a solution to getting the crank bolt off using tools and tricks from the web. Top dead center is easy if you do your homework. Found the TB was actually in great shape in my opinion and did not replace. Check the tensioner and idler pulleys for wear. Saved $500 in labor costs replacing what was needed and had fun doing it.
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2000 T4R 2wd, 3.4; 180k miles. 2005 Accord, V6; 218k miles.
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01-25-2015, 05:58 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Cowlitz County, Washington
Posts: 1,777
Real Name: Mike
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Cowlitz County, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzCosta
I just recently tackled replacing a water pump and TB, and with a quote of $850 and aftermarket parts prices from my current mechanic, my response was heck no. Get the book out and google the internet. My only advice is take your time. Find a solution to getting the crank bolt off using tools and tricks from the web. Top dead center is easy if you do your homework. Found the TB was actually in great shape in my opinion and did not replace. Check the tensioner and idler pulleys for wear. Saved $500 in labor costs replacing what was needed and had fun doing it.
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I think it depends on how often you want to tear your front end apart but at 100K miles if I'm going to change a timing belt, then I'm going to change just about everything it comes in contact with.
It's hard to check these items for their true wear and they may only have about 50K left on them. It might be a bit of overkill but it sure is good insurance and allows me to have a good nights sleep.
There are a lot of ways to remove your crank bolt, ie: "bump your starter" etc. but I recommend soaking the bolt two or three days, invest in the Schley Harmonic Balancer tool and get yourself a Gorilla from the zoo if you don't have any shop air. Total cost for me to replace everything with OEM was around $750. Took about a day.
I had my mechanic do it the first two times but not anymore. These engines e are too easy to work on and the labor costs are ridiculous. I don't expect to go back in the front end for at least another 100K miles.
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