Remote oil filter and oil pressure gauge port
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turbodudey2
New member
I relocated the filter to the driver side frame rail. There is a lot of room for a big filter there: I use a M1-301.
If you want an oil pressure gauge, the stock sender is right by the oil filter. You could tee off there or use a remote mount with a sender port.
If you want an oil pressure gauge, the stock sender is right by the oil filter. You could tee off there or use a remote mount with a sender port.
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I relocated the filter to the driver side frame rail. There is a lot of room for a big filter there: I use a M1-301.
If you want an oil pressure gauge, the stock sender is right by the oil filter. You could tee off there or use a remote mount with a sender port.
What did you use to block off the stock oil filter? I saw the the LCE block off plate they have but not sure if it’s worth all that hassle.
I just hate the location of the oil filter
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turbodudey2
New member
Just a regular spin-on adapter from Jegs. Like this one: Derale 15703: Spin-On Adapter Dual 1/2" NPT ports | JEGS
I used an adapter with side ports, but the top ports would be easier to install.
Some of the filter mounts have 1/8 NPT ports for sensors. The one I used from Jegs does not, but they are easy to drill and tap to add one. Derale 25709: Standard Series Remote Filter Mount Only Single Filter Mount | JEGS
I used an adapter with side ports, but the top ports would be easier to install.
Some of the filter mounts have 1/8 NPT ports for sensors. The one I used from Jegs does not, but they are easy to drill and tap to add one. Derale 25709: Standard Series Remote Filter Mount Only Single Filter Mount | JEGS
turbodudey2
New member
Per the FSM:
4.3 psi or more at idle
36 - 75 psi at 3,000 rpm depending on temperature/viscosity
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Higher potential for leaks. Otherwise, not much. It would be nice to have an easier to get to filter location and a vertical filter than can be pre-filled when installed.
-Charlie
metallitera
New member
Some have reported pressure loss with remote mounted filters. It makes sense with friction loss from the hose and adapters. I don't remember how much pressure loss there was, but I remember reading posts from 1 or 2 folks that went back to the stock setup after seeing the pressure loss.
turbodudey2
New member
Agreed. No significant down sides in my opinion.
To mitigate any possibility of leaks, I would recommend using a high quality braided stainless hose and AN fittings. (I would never use rubber hose and worm drive clamps for this application)
If installed correctly, there should be no more chance of a leak versus having the oil filter directly on the engine block.
Having the filter right side up was the main reason I added the remote mount. Can pre-fill with oil when changing the filter, and no mess when removing. I like using the M1-301 filter too.
I have two M1-301 filters on the inside of the front frame rails now. One for engine oil, and one for trans fluid.
phattyduck
Elite Member
I had trouble getting stainless hose fittings assembled leak free. I settled on the Aeroquip push-lock stuff. 300psi rated... This was for a different car, but it is still leak free >10 years later.
-Charlie
turbodudey2
New member
I've heard good things about the Aeroquip fittings, but never tried them myself.
Of the several dozen AN hose end fitting I've installed over the years, I don't think I've ever had one leak. A liberal application of WD-40 or similar lubricant makes assembly much easier, but even then they can be difficult to get started.
Maybe i need to work out like this guy:
Summit Racing - Braided Hose Assembly
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