Time for a timing belt replacement

[octanejunkie]

Looking at an Aircabman package on ebay

Obviously not everything is Toyota-branded for less than $300 shipped...

Includes The Following Brand New Parts:
<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th class="tg-uca5">Qty</th>
<th class="tg-0lax">Part</th>
<th class="tg-0lax">Mfgr</th>
<th class="tg-0lax">Part Number</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">2</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">1 Timing Belt & 1 label</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Toyota OE</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">13568-69095/YZZ03</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Idler Roller</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">NSK OEM</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">13503-62040</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Tensioner Roller</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Koyo OEM</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">13505-62070</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Front Crankshaft Seal</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Toyota/NOK OE</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">90311-40022</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">2</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Front Camshaft Seals</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Toyota/NOK OE</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">90311-38051</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Water Pump</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Aisin OEM</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">16100-69398-83</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Water Pump Gasket</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Aisin OEM</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">16271-62011</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Hydraulic Tensioner</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Toyota OE</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">13540-62021</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Thermostat (82°c)</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Toyota OE</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">90916-03075</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Thermostat Gasket</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Aisin OEM</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">16325-62010</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Air Conditioning Belt</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">BANDO OEM</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">4PK-870</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Alternator Belt</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">BANDO OEM</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">4PK-1050</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tg-0lax">1</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">Power Steering Belt</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">BANDO OEM</td>
<td class="tg-0lax">4PK-1070</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>

Everybody cool with that?
I can upgrade to a kit with all Toyota belts (last 3) for $10 more

Also, based on the video by [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] I picked up a crankshaft dampener bolt/washer
(90119-16006) from my local toyo parts counter for $7.65

Getting ready for this job with a new radiator and hoses, too

Courtesy of Longo Toyota for $122 (Camelback was backordered)

 

[clearock]

Not sure or not as i'm having a hard time reading the list with it's print size but when I do the timing and/or rad I change out the oil cooler hoses and o-ring along with the heater valve (I've had to many break a yr or two after doing the rest) and all the associated hoses. along with new main upper and lower rad hoses, But maybe thats just me

I don't change the heater valve every time, just if it looks original and/or showing signs it's needed.

 

[spartacus]

Looks good, I would add pcv valve. The ô ring for the oil dip stick.

 

[Endlessblockades]

eBay.....hmmmm. Def make sure they are trusted and well reviewed. I'm gonna go top shelf when it's time, and at 250k it's just about time!

Edit - nevermind, didn't see the seller's name. my friend did Aircabman and was satisfied the weren't fake.

 

[FD7683]

Use the bump-start method to get the crank pulley off instantly. Just make sure your 1/2 in. breaker bar is strong enough and use a 6-point socket. Got mine off in seconds by just bumping the ignition quickly. I personally didn't replace any seals as they weren't leaking on mine with 230k miles.

 

[brillo_76]

eBay.....hmmmm. Def make sure they are trusted and well reviewed. I'm gonna go top shelf when it's time, and at 250k it's just about time!

Edit - nevermind, didn't see the seller's name. my friend did Aircabman and was satisfied the weren't fake.

I bought 3 of the aircabin kits. They are not fake kits.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I’ve used The Timing Belt Kit Company for the three 3.4’s I put belts on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[octanejunkie]

I bought 3 of the aircabin kits. They are not fake kits.

The bigger question is do I get the OEM kit, OEM + Toyota belts (vs Bando) or the $340 all Yota kit?

 

[Unner]

I've used the aircabinman kit on my 4Runner twice. Once at ~180k miles and then again around ~270k miles. No issues at all. It's all high quality parts. I went with the kit that had the Toyota belts and everything, the most expensive kit he offered.

Make sure you have a way to get the cams off if you plan to replace those seals. There's also a foam seal on the backing plate or the plastic cover (I can't remember) that doesn't come in the kit.

The recommendation to do oil cooler hoses at the same time is wise also.

Grab a new radiator cap for that new radiator too.

It's a pretty straight forward job. The 5vz is easy to work on.

 

[gtojimbo]

i'm gathering all my parts to do the same. i got the aircabinman kit yesterday and it looks great! im still waiting for all my hoses and i ordered the koyorad vh010665n radiator. i didnt think to get the crankshaft bolt, but i will-probably a good idea.

 

[gtojimbo]

here it is still waiting for other stuff

 

[Bad Luck]

Definitely get a new radiator cap for the new radiator. I’ve used aircabinman on my green runner several years ago. I went with all oem at the time. This is one of those repairs that happens every 100k plus miles so it was worth the little extra for oem in my opinion.

 

[JMat]

[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] Make sure you check the overflow pipe on the radiator real good before installing. Ask me how I know

 

[octanejunkie]

Looks good, I would add pcv valve. The ô ring for the oil dip stick.

I'm doing the PCV valve (12204-62010) and the PCV Valve Grommet (90480-18001) along with the VCGs

Got a PN for the o-ring mentioned? I'll add it to the list

 

[octanejunkie]

Definitely get a new radiator cap for the new radiator. I’ve used aircabinman on my green runner several years ago. I went with all oem at the time. This is one of those repairs that happens every 100k plus miles so it was worth the little extra for oem in my opinion.

OEM rad cap already ordered, PN 16401-20353 a long with the Radiator Coolant Hoses (16571-62070 & 16572-62090)

 

[phattyduck]

I'm doing the PCV valve (12204-62010) and the PCV Valve Grommet (90480-18001) along with the VCGs

Focus on anything under the timing cover... All the rest of that stuff can be done anytime. Fix any leaks/seeps that you find in other locations on the motor later. No need to replace something that isn't leaking if it is easy to get at later...

-Charlie

 

[octanejunkie]

[MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] Make sure you check the overflow pipe on the radiator real good before installing. Ask me how I know

You mean the hose that goes to the overflow/expansion tank in front of the battery?

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[brillo_76]

The bigger question is do I get the OEM kit, OEM + Toyota belts (vs Bando) or the $340 all Yota kit?

I actually done both. Ca report zero issues so that would be up to you really as both are great kits.

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[JMat]

You mean the hose that goes to the overflow/expansion tank in front of the battery?

Was talking about the nipple that comes off the radiator to the overflow hose.
I ordered the Toyota radiator from Camelback and was so focused on making sure the tanks were on properly that I didn't notice the overflow nipple was broken off until I had it installed and went to attach the over flow hose(very lat step). I ended up finding it stuck in a piece of styrofoam in the box. Have a friend who had one shipped too and the nipple was broken and just held on by a thin piece of plastic and had to return the radiator, too.

This is just a random pic off the internet to show what i was talking about.

 

[Asylvester]

Use the bump-start method to get the crank pulley off instantly. Just make sure your 1/2 in. breaker bar is strong enough and use a 6-point socket. Got mine off in seconds by just bumping the ignition quickly. I personally didn't replace any seals as they weren't leaking on mine with 230k miles.

This method worked for me too! Makes it so easy.