Time for a timing belt replacement

JMat said:
Was talking about the nipple that comes off the radiator to the overflow hose.
I ordered the Toyota radiator from Camelback and was so focused on making sure the tanks were on properly that I didn't notice the overflow nipple was broken off until I had it installed and went to attach the over flow hose(very lat step). I ended up finding it stuck in a piece of styrofoam in the box. Have a friend who had one shipped too and the nipple was broken and just held on by a thin piece of plastic and had to return the radiator, too.

This is just a random pic off the internet to show what i was talking about.
Click to expand...

Just checked. Crap.
fb4742125931d93773f992c8ac3e0d6c.jpg


Thanks so much!
 
I had the exact same thing on the cheap rock auto one too. Have to send it back for another one. Don't even bother to try to fix it just return it...:(

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octanejunkie said:
Just checked. Crap.
Thanks so much!
Click to expand...

That sucks!!! But glad you found it before it was installed. I stopped using Camelback after I had this issue as it took them almost 2 weeks to get back to about returning it and I had done a fair amount of business with them.
 
clearock said:
Not sure or not as i'm having a hard time reading the list with it's print size but when I do the timing and/or rad I change out the oil cooler hoses and o-ring along with the heater valve (I've had to many break a yr or two after doing the rest) and all the associated hoses. along with new main upper and lower rad hoses, But maybe thats just me

I don't change the heater valve every time, just if it looks original and/or showing signs it's needed.
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i would change the oil cooler hoses etc too, its just for my big hands and the rig on jack stands it was a pain in the arse.
yet I have a belt job coming up this summer, and will do the oil cooler and the heater valve. both of which parts are on my shelf
 
if you are doing the valve cover gaskets now, the oil fill cap has a gasket too, I dont know the part number, but they are often so cooked on and hard that they look like part of the cap.
 
3bears said:
if you are doing the valve cover gaskets now, the oil fill cap has a gasket too, I dont know the part number, but they are often so cooked on and hard that they look like part of the cap.
Click to expand...
I replaced the oil fill cap randomly for that very issue. I couldn't find a part number for just the gasket. The cap was PN 12180-22011

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3bears said:
i would change the oil cooler hoses etc too, its just for my big hands and the rig on jack stands it was a pain in the arse.

yet I have a belt job coming up this summer, and will do the oil cooler and the heater valve. both of which parts are on my shelf
Click to expand...

It's not a bad idea, I can pick up the heater valve, seems like nobody changes the heater hoses though. I'll look for that part number.

EDIT: 87240-35070Valve Assy, Heater Water
(verified with my VIN)

I'll also have to look for the part numbers for the oil cooler hoses unless you have those handy

EDIT: Oil cooler hoses are PN 15778-62030 & 15777-62020

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Last edited:
The heater hoses on the back of the engine are basically impossible to replace unless the engine is out. I would leave them alone unless you have a leak. Some of the hoses that go to and from the heater control valve are not too bad to replace. The heater control valve does go bad over time and is easy to get to. I tried several aftermarket valves and all developed leaks within a few months. I eventually ordered an OEM from partsouq which was significantly cheaper than anywhere here in the US.
 
Since I am doing the VCGs and will have full access to the injector valley I might as well service/replace the injectors

Looking at Motor West Performance and a set of Denso grey injectors vs having my brown injectors rebuilt after reading their site and this post

Open to discussion and input from others on this
 
Romeo1 said:
Are you having a fuel trim issue or other fueling problem?
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Nope, but it's one of those while you're in there type of proactive fixes.

The idea of replacing functioning, but unknown capacity/functionality injectors with closely balanced fully functioning ones is very attractive to me.


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Also, I’d your doing cam seals, don’t cut corners. Remove the cam end cap and change the seal the right way unless you have the seal removal tool. Even then, I still vote doing it like your supposed to. Those cams seal surfaces are unbelievably soft and easy to mar. I actually broke a seal retainer by prying on it. I found a replacement and it plastigauged out correctly, but man was that a pain.

With the caps off it’s a 10 second job and the seal just slides on .

Do tape up the fuel harnes before you remove the covers. The cleanup is really slow if you don’t.

Mine took forever to clean everything and clean all the carbon out of the valve covers and intake. It’s not a hard job for gaskets and valve adjust, just a slow tedious one.

If you have a good relationship with your dealer, they’ll probably let you take their shim kit box, and their old box of various use shims with you to do the job.
 
Thanks [MENTION=643801]Romeo1[/MENTION]

I plan on doing it right and using all the parts in the kit, I wasn't planning on adjusting valves, but it does make sense, and no, I don't have a relationship with a Toyota dealer that would lend me any parts as far as I can imagine lol

I've actually done valve cover gaskets before, it was basically a weekend job allowing the valve covers enough time to soak In degreaser, etc. Taping up the harness, and the plastic wire covers, is now on my list considering how brittle they get.

I'm going to have the entire engine bay steam cleaned before I start working on it, which should cut a little bit of time for me, but I won't be cutting any corners.

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How many miles on the clock? If you around over 250 and around 300k . It would probably be a good idea to check and adjust the valves. It's just enough time to have several out of adjustment. Especially on the exhaust valves. I know when I do my valve pan gaskets on Tetanus 1. I better check the valve clearances as I am over 280k. Debating whether to change the injectors as well with a remfg set at the same time. :)

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brillo_76 said:
How many miles on the clock? If you around over 250 and around 300k . It would probably be a good idea to check and adjust the valves. It's just enough time to have several out of adjustment. Especially on the exhaust valves. I know when I do my valve pan gaskets on Tetanus 1. I better check the valve clearances as I am over 280k. Debating whether to change the injectors as well with a remfg set at the same time. :)

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Click to expand...
The truck I'm work on has 245K on the clock, so it's right on the doorstep

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octanejunkie said:
Nope, but it's one of those while you're in there type of proactive fixes.

The idea of replacing functioning, but unknown capacity/functionality injectors with closely balanced fully functioning ones is very attractive to me.


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Click to expand...


I hear you there. I’m the same way, and replace lots of stuff just because I’m there. I’m at that point in life where I’m time limited over money limited usually. My experience has been fuel injectors her seldom go bad though as long as quality fuel is used, filters get serviced and try not to live on Empty as the fuel is a cooling medium for the fuel system.

I would suggest recording the the fuel trims before you replace them and check after though just to verify if you actually improved things.
 
octanejunkie said:
Nope, but it's one of those while you're in there type of proactive fixes.

The idea of replacing functioning, but unknown capacity/functionality injectors with closely balanced fully functioning ones is very attractive to me.
Click to expand...
Check your fuel trims with a decent OBD-II scanner. If they are <5%, you probably don't need to mess with the injectors. Otherwise, RC Injection is local to us - just send them in.

Cd0Vkp5h.jpg


My 3s-gte Camry needed some work on the injectors... but that car sits more than it should and so the injectors can get gummed up.

-Charlie
 
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