2001 Fuel Tank - Replacement Part Options (Spectra, Dorman, and Liland)?

hungwin jza80

New member
Hi guys, need your help. Searched the forums and couldn't find anything via the inline search or even via Google and using this sub, i.e., ..."site:https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/"...

I took a wire wheel to some corroded spots on the fuel tank today in the hopes of mitigating it's growth. Must have knocked enough of that good rust that kept thing in! Needless to say, I've got a temporary limp mode fix on there now but need to replace the tank.

Looks like the OEM P/N is discontinued: 77001-3D480. And, as much of a stickler as I am for replacing with OEM-only, I probably wouldn't have dropped the money on a ~$700-800 tank.

RockAuto gives me the following choices:

  • DORMAN 575074 {770013D480, 575-074} @ $281.79 w/ Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • LILAND GLOBAL ITO33B @ $302.79 w/ 3 Year Warranty
  • SPECTRA PREMIUM TO33B {770013D480} @ $309.79 w/ 3 Year Warranty

Leaning towards the Dorman due to the warranty. Any experience or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

THANK YOU!!!
 
Register to hide this ad
Hi guys, need your help. Searched the forums and couldn't find anything via the inline search or even via Google and using this sub, i.e., ..."site:https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/"...

I took a wire wheel to some corroded spots on the fuel tank today in the hopes of mitigating it's growth. Must have knocked enough of that good rust that kept thing in! Needless to say, I've got a temporary limp mode fix on there now but need to replace the tank.

Looks like the OEM P/N is discontinued: 77001-3D480. And, as much of a stickler as I am for replacing with OEM-only, I probably wouldn't have dropped the money on a ~$700-800 tank.

RockAuto gives me the following choices:

  • DORMAN 575074 {770013D480, 575-074} @ $281.79 w/ Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • LILAND GLOBAL ITO33B @ $302.79 w/ 3 Year Warranty
  • SPECTRA PREMIUM TO33B {770013D480} @ $309.79 w/ 3 Year Warranty

Leaning towards the Dorman due to the warranty. Any experience or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

THANK YOU!!!

I can't comment on any of the above but I got a JC Whitney one last month and literally have an appointment tomorow afternoon for the install. Just be sure Rock Auto sends the hardware that's included (if some is). They forgot mine and I had to email them to send it to me. Most places are sold out of them now but they have great reviews.

https://www.carparts.com/details/To..._Tank/2001/SR5/6_Cyl_3-dot-4L/RT67010008.html

Hardware shown in the product pics.
 
Spectra was the only one I was able to find to replace my smashed up stock tank a couple months ago, and I took it to a shop to install it for me since I was in the middle of moving. They said it fit right up with no issues, and it looked just like an OEM tank when I took it out to inspect it.
 
I can't comment on any of the above but I got a JC Whitney one last month and literally have an appointment tomorow afternoon for the install. Just be sure Rock Auto sends the hardware that's included (if some is). They forgot mine and I had to email them to send it to me. Most places are sold out of them now but they have great reviews.

https://www.carparts.com/details/To..._Tank/2001/SR5/6_Cyl_3-dot-4L/RT67010008.html

Hardware shown in the product pics.

Great, thanks for the reply!

Can you please let me know how the install goes, especially with respect to the hardware (gaskets and screws)? I'm on the fence about ordering OEM for those components.
 
Great, thanks for the reply!

Can you please let me know how the install goes, especially with respect to the hardware (gaskets and screws)? I'm on the fence about ordering OEM for those components.

It's in the shop as we speak. I'll keep you on my radar today and tomorow.
 
Hi guys, need your help. Searched the forums and couldn't find anything via the inline search or even via Google and using this sub, i.e., ..."site:https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/"...

I took a wire wheel to some corroded spots on the fuel tank today in the hopes of mitigating it's growth. Must have knocked enough of that good rust that kept thing in! Needless to say, I've got a temporary limp mode fix on there now but need to replace the tank.

Looks like the OEM P/N is discontinued: 77001-3D480. And, as much of a stickler as I am for replacing with OEM-only, I probably wouldn't have dropped the money on a ~$700-800 tank.

RockAuto gives me the following choices:

  • DORMAN 575074 {770013D480, 575-074} @ $281.79 w/ Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • LILAND GLOBAL ITO33B @ $302.79 w/ 3 Year Warranty
  • SPECTRA PREMIUM TO33B {770013D480} @ $309.79 w/ 3 Year Warranty

Leaning towards the Dorman due to the warranty. Any experience or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

THANK YOU!!!

Speaking of new tanks. Add a bottle of Techron or Mystery Oil in there or leave it as it is?
 
Aren't they illegal to ship?

Had no clue if so.... makes sense if people don't let them air out for a while. I have 3 tanks laying around. Guess one would need to have someone that was going from x to x and transport.
 
Last edited:
Great, thanks for the reply!

Can you please let me know how the install goes, especially with respect to the hardware (gaskets and screws)? I'm on the fence about ordering OEM for those components.

If it’s not one thing, it’s another. Just had my fuel tank replaced. Truck was on E which I expected. Put $50 in and the fuel gauge isn’t working anymore. I went back to the shop (they were just closing down for the day) and the tech told me to drive it for a day and see if it starts working again? Then said it might be a bad fuel pump. I just find it oddly coincidental the fuel gauge stopped working the moment after a new tank was installed. I told him if it didn’t fix itself by tomorrow id bring it back in.

With that being said, anything I can look for or at in the meantime? Part of me just knows they’re going to say, oh you need a new fuel pump. When I start the truck or put it in acc you can see the gauge work then stop. Is there anything perhaps he forgot to clip/plug back in?

Imgur: The magic of the Internet
 
If it’s not one thing, it’s another. Just had my fuel tank replaced. Truck was on E which I expected. Put $50 in and the fuel gauge isn’t working anymore. I went back to the shop (they were just closing down for the day) and the tech told me to drive it for a day and see if it starts working again? Then said it might be a bad fuel pump. I just find it oddly coincidental the fuel gauge stopped working the moment after a new tank was installed. I told him if it didn’t fix itself by tomorrow id bring it back in.

With that being said, anything I can look for or at in the meantime? Part of me just knows they’re going to say, oh you need a new fuel pump. When I start the truck or put it in acc you can see the gauge work then stop. Is there anything perhaps he forgot to clip/plug back in?

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Fuel level sender is separate from the pump, but part of the same assembly. 99+ 3rd gens are notorious for the fuel gauge not reading properly. Lots of threads in this forum about it.
 
Fuel level sender is separate from the pump, but part of the same assembly. 99+ 3rd gens are notorious for the fuel gauge not reading properly. Lots of threads in this forum about it.

Is it possible the float came loose? It was perfectly fine when I dropped it off. It runs just as smooth now, if not better with no fumes leaking out so I highly doubt it was the pump.
 
Is it possible the float came loose? It was perfectly fine when I dropped it off. It runs just as smooth now, if not better with no fumes leaking out so I highly doubt it was the pump.
Probably not. It's pretty securely on there. Might want to start reading up on it here. Fuel Gauge issue.
 
Check out Post #2 of this thread. I was planning on doing the pencil eraser trick (or similar) to clean off the sending unit.

Fuel tank removal step by step, DIY w/pics

Thanks for all the replies guys. First and foremost I'm taking it back to the shop. It was working as it should be when I dropped it off, and not working 2 hours later. I'll find it wildy coincidental if one of my OEM parts happen to break when he dropped the tank, regardless I don't think I should be resposible for the fix.

Before I do go back, for my sanity and to save myself from any embarrisment....a few questions please.

The fuel pump has nothing to due with the fuel gauge, correct? As in they do not work together so we can rule that out as a potentail culprit?

The pump obviously works fine.
Everyone seems to think it's the float or sending unit, either damaged during the install or maybe dissconnected?

Are the float and uint a working? Do both require any type of electrical connection? Maybe something they forgot to plug back in?

Thanks again. I'm not fiddling with it one bit until I go back there and god forbid be blamed for tampering with it before they could trouble shoot it.

I already know it's going to be a hassle, the mechanic himself said, "oh, yeah..maybe you have a bad fuel pump"

From what I'm gathering, the
 
I'd replace all the components on the tank with OEM. Dropping the tank sucks so you don't want to do it again. I did my fuel pump as preventative maintenance a couple years ago and just had to drop it again to replace the fuel sending unit. I cleaned it with an eraser when I did the pump but it still went bad. The contacts were clean on the old one too when I replaced it. This time I replaced literally everything (other than the new fuel pump) so I should be good for another 300k miles.

The 01-02 has some extra EVAP stuff that's known to go bad also. I'd replace it all now if you plan to keep your rig for a long time.
 
Probably not. It's pretty securely on there. Might want to start reading up on it here. Fuel Gauge issue.

Well they fixed it, not exactly sure what the did but it wasn't even in the shop for ten minutes so I know they didn't drop the tank. Maybe they forgot to plug in the float, sender or a bad ground? I'm just happy it's working and I can add more than $20 of fuel at a time now.
 
Well they fixed it, not exactly sure what the did but it wasn't even in the shop for ten minutes so I know they didn't drop the tank. Maybe they forgot to plug in the float, sender or a bad ground? I'm just happy it's working and I can add more than $20 of fuel at a time now.

If it was that quick, my guess is they probably forgot to plug or didn't fully plug the fuel sender assembly on top of the tank which is accessed from underneath the rear driver side seat.
 
If it was that quick, my guess is they probably forgot to plug or didn't fully plug the fuel sender assembly on top of the tank which is accessed from underneath the rear driver side seat.

My thoughts exactly Four. It still baffles me mechanics constantly forget to re-plug shit back in. When I had my valve covers done they forgot to re-plug in the temperature sending unit. So now I can never see if the truck is operating at proper temps. I'm sure I coud plug it in back myself, but I've never found it's location. I know it's behind the manifold, but I have no clue as exactly what to look for.
 
My thoughts exactly Four. It still baffles me mechanics constantly forget to re-plug shit back in. When I had my valve covers done they forgot to re-plug in the temperature sending unit. So now I can never see if the truck is operating at proper temps. I'm sure I coud plug it in back myself, but I've never found it's location. I know it's behind the manifold, but I have no clue as exactly what to look for.
How to Replace the Temperature Gauge Sensor on a Toyota 3.4L V6 - YouTube

-Charlie
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top