Seems like all the problems you have are from wear items, so at least you know for sure what needs to be done. You should replace the rear main seal while your at it.

The clutch is priority #1 since you can damage other stuff like the flywheel if you keep driving. So it's a good thing you don't plan on driving it.

Remember to buy the Aisin clutch kit, they sell them on rock auto. Any time there is an Aisin/Denso part, it'll work just as well as the "Toyota" one.

Well both shops in town have declined the job...so its been hard to get a quote!

Toyota was pretty much the same as another clutch/tranny shop, $1300-1500 including rear main and flywheel resurfacing

Will try a couple small indy guys but its looking like home cooking is my only practical choice...Hello "personal growth"

You can do it.. We have faith in you.. :-) Just take your time and follow the service manuals or one of the many you tube videos of people changing them.

I can still remember my first clutch change on a 1983 Toyota 5 speed, along with transmission and transfer after the transmission shop just changed my main rear output bearing and didn't even bother to rinse the metal filings out of the transmission. So I got to do the job again with a swap of the transfer and transmission from a parts mobile back in the mid to late 1990s.

Get the parts in and ready to go. Maybe get a flywheel that's easy to return (i.e. local store?) just in case. You may or may not need it, but from the sound of your first post in this thread I think you might.

And get all the tools ready to go as well. 1/2 in ratchet set, several long extensions and a wobble drive make it waaaay easier to get some of those transfer case bolts. Take off the transmission crossmember and trans mount, and let the drivetrain lean back, then get to those from back behind the trans with the extensions.

Even if you've never done it before, you should be able to get it done in a weekend. Main thing being sure you have all the parts you need on hand.

Also, Autozone has free rental tools of various types. Like a torque wrench. If you don't have one and don't want to buy one now. Basically, it's a used tool they 'sell' you at a somewhat inflated price, but will refund you 100% if you bring it back in 90 days. You want to use a torque wrench on the flywheel bolts, and the clutch plate bolts. Too tight is as bad as too loose on bolts like that.

A big variable is rust, you mentioned rust on it earlier. Just dealing with crusty stuck bolts is a PITA. I live in the salt belt and sometimes you just spend a long time on a single bolt. Last time I had the trans out on mine (doing a crawl box) I struggled with the 4 bolts holding the trans crossmember in. Eventually I got 3 removed and just left the REALLY stubborn 4th one in place and pivoted the crossmember down out of the way.

I just went through this, ended up outsourcing a clutch job due to too much work/life/other auto projects sapping my time. If you go with a reputable independent shop it ain't cheap, shop rates have really gone up. (>$1000)

There are other items to also consider while you're "in there", like flywheel bolts. It's good practice to replace them if the flywheel is coming out.

Bellhousing bolt technique (on my 2WD auto, but you get the idea):



Yes, this all the way behind the trans/TC...

-Charlie

Yah, I will start collecting everything I need since it will be a couple months before I can even start. Was gonna get the kit first but the HF tranny jack has a coupon for $25 off that is only good for a couple more days so I'll get that. Will order the kit so it arrives when I get back in town in April.

Since this is a 2 day job, I should be able to get it done in 20. I generally multiply time estimates by 10 to reflect my general ineptitude

Another option to consider would be to hire a mobile mechanic to either do the entire job or to help you do it. If he was assisting or leading as a team it might be cheaper than having him do all the work.

Being familiar with the 3rd gen T4R would be a big bonus.

You could check Craigslist for mobile mechanics.

If I start it, I'll get it done eventually. But I won't enjoy it and I will complain a lot.

That is all part of the experience....

I picked up the tranny jack and then finished watching the Timmy Part 1 tutorial. Ooops. What I thought would be a difficult, unpleasant job now looks like it will be miserable and nearly impossible. I don't have anyone to help me. I will have to revise my time estimate from 3 weeks to 3 months. I also have 3 months to change my mind and get a refund on the jack.

One thing brought up in the video that I hadn't considered was a possible bell housing chock full of asbestos dust. Since I have a 97, I started doing some research on when Toyota stopped using asbestos in clutches.

I found this document, stating they stopped in 1993, but being a "show me the proof" kind of guy and they don't cite their source I won't bet my life on an unsupported statement. http://chess-safety.com/wp-content/u...s-asbestos.pdf

But it was encouraging. I then found Just a moment...

which states that Japanese automakers continued to use asbestos in some parts (but not clutches) even after 1996, which also suggests clutches were non-asbestos by 1996 or earlier.

So all of this is highly suggestive that my clutch is non-asbestos, but still leaves some doubt in my mind. Obviously I would make sure to be careful about dust either way, but I'd rather go into it (if I don't chicken out) knowing with 100% certainty whether I'm dealing with a carcinogen or not. I have confirmed that this is the original clutch, lasted 308,000 miles.

Asbestos is a non-issue.

With 1 person, tools, leverage and patience are your friend. Consider removing the transfer case separately to lighten and even out the load on the trans jack.

-Charlie

I was going to mention that, but didn't want to complicate things.

It's a PITA to take the transfer case off in the car, but it's a PITA wrangling the trans and TC together.

Well, if its there it IS an issue. Even Toyota couldn't answer the question without googling up the same indefinite info I already knew.

I found a better idea, maybe. I've read some of the previous writeups and someone said you can just remove the mount and slide both back on the cross member with a (presumably 2nd) jack under the transfer case. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2432632-post20.html

Clean with brake parts cleaner (liquid) instead of a blow gun. You are also only doing this once, not for a living...

Asbestos exposures of mechanics performing clutch service on motor vehicles - PubMed

-Charlie