Clutch Replacement... Contemplating DIY, any tips or warnings?

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denvermaxd

New member
I have a 2000 4Runner SR5 with 5-speed manual, 3.4 V6, 4WD (love it!!!). 185,000 miles on the odometer.

About a year ago I thought I felt a bit of clutch slip a couple times, and so I ordered some stuff to do the job:

OEM Clutch Kit
Aisin CKT-040 Clutch Kit

Seats and Sockets
Marlin Heavy Duty Seats
Marlin Heavy Duty Sockets

Rear Main Seal (while I'm in there)
Fel-Pro BS 40674 Rear Engine Main Seal Set

That was in May of '15. Then, everything has felt pretty good, including multiple trips in the mountains, highway driving, etc. So, never did the clutch. Last week I went to pass a truck and the RPMs way over-revved in 4th gear. I was able to reproduce the over-rev easily, so it's time to do this thing.

However, I know it's a pretty involved job, and I've been busy, so I thought I'd get some estimates from my TLMs... I'm getting estimates of $650+ for labor + $50 fly wheel machining. That puts this in DIY value range for me.

I'm pretty good with a wrench. To date I've done the following myself on my T4R:

- Tundra brake upgrade
- OME suspension upgrade front and rear
- Starter fix (pulled starter, replaced contact, reinstalled)
- All my fluids multiple times
- Fuel filter replacement

And on my Audi I've done:

- Timing belt/water pump
- Front control arms
- A gazillion sensors/check valves etc
- Motor mounts

So, questions:

- Is the clutch job (+ rear main seal) harder than I'm capable of? I've never dropped the transmission on any car.
- Are there any "whatever you do, don't forget to" tips on this?

I found a couple pretty good DIYs, and plan to rent a transmission jack, and blind hole puller from Autozone (for the pilot bearing). Anything else I should have to-hand when I start?
 
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Have a friend/buddy on hand to help nudge the tranny back in. It can be done by yourself, but better to have two people. With all the the engine/Tranny/clutch RRs, I find it easier with an extra set of hands.
 
2 12 inch long 1/2 inch extensions with 2 swivels. Getting those top bolts out is a lot easier through the shifter hole. Its a lot of work but not technically difficult.
 
It took me 9 hours with a lift and and transmission jack designed for lifts. It was awful but I was by myself and I'm glad I saved the money. The writeups are a great resource as you go. Good luck. Having a new clutch is great especially when you have an extra 600 to 700 bucks laying around
 
If your gonna use a trans jack, just leave the trans on the jack. I'm not sure which jack your gonna use but a ratcheting strap securing the whole trans and jack so it doesn't move falling either side to side or backwards really helps. There's no real need to drop the trans from the jack, just try and move it back enough so you can access the bolts to drop the pressure plate and disc, then remove the flywheel and pilot bearing, then work on the main seal. I do all kinds of clutch jobs on the ground by myself, so I don't normally take the trans off the jack cause it would be difficult for myself to carry it and reposition it again on the jack. I maneuver it back enough to access the clutch side and the release bearing. If you need to remove the exhaust, allow some penetrating fluid to soak for a while. Some trucks and cars have non-removable crossmembers so you would actually have to move the trans back then drop the front down and take it out, which is a pain in the ass.
 
The transmission/transfer case assembly is heavy and awkward. Not that any are light, but it's a ***** if you ask me. We did mine without a jack :) Nothing was overly difficult or challenging, it's a pretty straight forward mechanical job. Meaning, no special tools or skills needed outside your list, straight bolt and muscle job.

Make sure you seat your rear main seal properly. Is it leaking? Mine was NOT leaking and looked excellent, so if it ain't broke, I didn't fix it. Seems to be within your mechanical aptitude for sure.

Spend a bit of time looking how the shifter handles come out. Good time to change fluids, fill them from inside the truck. Much easier then a pump under the truck if you think it's worth changing.
 
I recommend this little kit in addition to all your normal extensions:

9 Pc Wobble Socket Extension Set

I did it myself with a HF trans jack and no lift. It was my first clutch job and first time pulling a trans, but I got her done, all by myself. Note that if you have the Cali. 2-cat system on your 2000, you don't have to touch the exhaust. Most of the DIY's are on the Federal 1-cat exhaust, and say you do. Those have a different bracket. (The only two-cat 5 speeds are the '99 and '00 Cali's).
 
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I just replaced mines yesterday, It will take you longer to remove the front and rear driveshafts then it does to drop the trans/tc. Transmission jack makes the job so much easier, a friend to help align trans for installation. Torque wrench, locktite, blind hole puller from autozone (a lot easier then grease and hammer way) Luk flywheel 60 bucks from amazon or resurface your old one.
 
Just an FYI and I have used feltpro without issue, it is a good product. When I did my clutch, I used a NAPA rear main as the dealership had given me the wrong rear main seal and they were closed for the weekend. Well the NAPA started leaking after a week........so I did the job twice and used the OEM rear main seal. Going on two years later, no issues.
 
If I had to do it all over again, I would've removed the front sway bar. I had to tip the unit pretty good to get it to clear.

I wouldn't do the job without a trans jack. The assembly is big heavy monster. Be sure to chain & ratchet strap the trans securely.

For the rear main - you will find it is easiest to drive the seal if you just remove the retainer. Yes you will have to clean up the old FIPG and re-FIPG the retainer, but its worth it to ensure the seal is sqaure-allel. I would also highly recommend using a new toyota seal (#90311-92010 I believe, cost is $32). This is one of those things that if it leaks, you get to remove the trans and do it all over again.
 

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[MENTION=89367]denvermaxd[/MENTION], did you ever get around to this? contemplating doing my clutch myself also, have never done anything this challenging before though...
 
yes, I did do it

garrett1478 said:
[MENTION=89367]denvermaxd[/MENTION], did you ever get around to this? contemplating doing my clutch myself also, have never done anything this challenging before though...
Click to expand...

So, YMMV... I'm a decent shade tree mechanic, but by no means skilled or particularly experienced.

I found this job to be the hardest I've ever done, but also rewarding/gratifying (as difficult DIYs often are).

My first-blush recommendations:
  • Rent a good tranny jack
  • If you're not doing this on a lift, make sure you have a nice level concrete floor on which to work
  • Plan on significant parts of the job being "2-man" (some things would be nearly impossible working alone, especially without a lift)
  • If you're doing the rear main seal while you're in there, order the OEM seal, not the cheap-o version
  • Make sure you have the socket extenders and u-joints... the top tranny bolts are impossible to reach without them

Send me a PM and I'll send you my phone number if you want me to offer a full report on my job. I probably have some insights that could save you hours.
 
denvermaxd said:
Plan on significant parts of the job being "2-man" (some things would be nearly impossible working alone, especially without a lift)
Click to expand...

Having done clutch jobs on MUCH larger vehicles and transmissions by myself, I'm curious what you consider to be 2-man or impossible alone.

The trans on my F250, for example, is at least twice as large as the 5spd found in any 4runner.
 
Ultimate pro tip for doing a clutch on any Toyota, don't remove the trans crossmemeber, unbolt the mount and slide the trans back on the crossmemeber with a jack supporting the Tcase, makes it 100% easier going back together.
 
I tend to agree with @csp , I've dropped the trans twice by myself (3 times total) with no issue. The last time it only took me 2 hours to get it down from start. Additionally, I see no reason why the retainer plate should have to come off unless you enjoy scrubbing rtv off of mating surfaces so you can reapply.

I did a write up on it afterwards since most of the threads I found had broken links on pictures.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/215257-clutch-replacement-writeup.html#post2281950
 
csp said:
Having done clutch jobs on MUCH larger vehicles and transmissions by myself, I'm curious what you consider to be 2-man or impossible alone.

The trans on my F250, for example, is at least twice as large as the 5spd found in any 4runner.
Click to expand...

I said "nearly impossible". I ended up doing pretty much everything alone, and there were times where it felt like it just wasn't going to work. If you're working on the ground (no vehicle lift) parts of the job are made infinitely easier with two people. Is it possible alone? Sure. Knock yourself out.

Parts that are MUCH easier with two people (not impossible!):

  • Top tranny bolts: Helps a lot to have one person under the car feeling the socket (with multiple extenders attached) onto the bolt, while another guy/gal in cab of the truck handles the ratchet
  • Wiring harness: There are a couple attachments (in particular one at top/rear of tranny) that are impossible to see from the bottom, impossible to reach from the top. Again, helps to have someone in cab of truck spotting while person under the truck ratchets.
  • Tranny alignment during re-install: The thing is heavy and the space is tight. When you're laying on your back under the car, it is VERY difficult to both align it and apply adequate force to compel the damn thing back into position. Much easier if one person is aligning/pushing from the rear, the other is just brute force pulling/wiggling/shaking/beating on the tranny from the front. Impossible alone? No. Infinitely easier with two? Absolutely.
  • Tranny alignment during re-install II: Having a second set of eyeballs under there really helps because it saves you cranking and tuning the tranny jack from the back, crawling out from under the truck and crawling back in up front, seeing how you're doing, repeat, repeat, repeat.
  • Tranny re-position: If for whatever reason you have to re-position the tranny on the jack, unless you're superhuman it's pretty much essential to have 2 people (I had to switch from a shitty jack to a good jack mid-job, and I also had to completely rotate part of the jack mid-job... granted, mistakes on my part led to that, but shit happens).
  • Starter re-attach: The starter is surprisingly heavy to hold with one hand contorted through the tiny gaps available while seating and threading the bolts. Much much easier with one person holding the starter in place (through wheel well) while the other threads the bolts.
  • Beer/tools/morale: Again, if you're laying under the truck doing all this, it goes SO MUCH faster if you can just say "hand me the 17mm deep socket, please" when you inevitably forgot/dropped/watched it roll away from you. Plus, if you've never done it before, you'll be referencing the manual (and T4R.org) enough that a second person relaying directions can save lots of crawling back and forth from under the truck. Honestly the most painful part of the job for me was the borderline rash on my shoulder blades from sliding in and out from under the truck. Plus, having someone there to pop a beer (when you're done).
 
UnderFire said:
Ultimate pro tip for doing a clutch on any Toyota, don't remove the trans crossmemeber, unbolt the mount and slide the trans back on the crossmemeber with a jack supporting the Tcase, makes it 100% easier going back together.
Click to expand...

For clarity: You leave the crossmember attached to the truck body, leave the U mount attached to the crossmember (but detached from the tranny), and position the jack under the Tcase? So as you slide the tranny back the U mount kind of acts as a guide/support.

I could definitely see that saving some hassle... Also would keep you from dropping the tranny inadvertently on your head.
 
denvermaxd said:
For clarity: You leave the crossmember attached to the truck body, leave the U mount attached to the crossmember (but detached from the tranny), and position the jack under the Tcase? So as you slide the tranny back the U mount kind of acts as a guide/support.

I could definitely see that saving some hassle... Also would keep you from dropping the tranny inadvertently on your head.
Click to expand...

Close, jack up the transfer case and pull the u mount out completely, the flat bottom of the trans rests solidly on the flat top of the crossmember itself., if you want extra security you can wrap a ratchet strap around the frame and suck the trans up towards the floor with it.

Dropping the tranny completely creates a lot of extra hassle, especially if you aren't working off of a lift.
 
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