3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

steezemcqueen

Moderator
Written by 99yota4, Brian2sun, ChildrenOfBodom, Duhockey, kregg, steezemcqueen, xskydivingdudex


One of the most popular modifications to the 4Runner is to put on a suspension lift. There are many different options and many can be confusing. Hopefully this thread will help you decide on which lift is best for you.

Here are several important factors to help you decide the best lift option for your 4Runner:
  • How much do you want to spend? Many times this becomes the deciding factor.
  • What purpose are you lifting the vehicle? for off-road? Just for the look?
  • Do you want to run bigger tires after lifting?
  • What are the additional weight requirements that you might carry over stock.
What are you lifting it for?
Written by kregg

Will you just drive on road? Will you wheel it? There are a lot of things to consider before doing it...

Not only will larger tires affect your gas mileage, but also your acceleration, braking, cornering, and the overall "feel" of the truck will change when you start messing with the suspension.

Can you daily drive a lifted 4Runner? Heck yea.
Is it economical? No. adding bigger tires too doesn't make your truck get better gas mileage either.

If you lift it - expect a "stiffer" ride. There are too many personal variables to define whether this ride is better or worse than stock. In terms of ride comfort, the general consensus is this ---- Spacers (Daystar/Revtek) --> Rear Coils / Front Spacer combo (OME/Spacer kit from Toytec) --> Full Coil lifts (Toytec/Sonoran Steel/OME) ---- Adding new, longer shocks to any of these kits will greatly improve the comfort and ability of each of these kits. Again, there are a thousand varieties of shocks to choose from. I think my truck rides pretty good for what I've done to it. I'd like to have a little softer feel up front, but for a lifted SUV the ride isn't unbearable. When I had my 285's I think I lost 2-3 MPG's per tank, but I wheeled it at least once a week or so, running in 4WD doesn't help the MPG's either.

Types of lifts:

Spacers
The least expensive way to lift your 4Runner is by using a coil spacer. A coil spacer basically preloads the spring which lifts the truck. Spacers can be used for up to 3" of lift. Spacers are seen as inexpensive because they do add a lift but are not recommended by most for off road. These serve more for aesthetic purposes and while they can be used on stock coils, they can also cause sagging of the stock coils at a faster rate.

Coil Spacers vs Top Plate Spacers
The coil spacer sits inside the coil/shock assembly and just compresses the spring most than normal which creates lift. The advantage to this type of spacer is that it does not change the geometry of the factory setup. However, they can cause a harsh ride especially if you coil springs are old and sagging. They are also more difficult to install. The top plate spacer bolts on to the top of the coil/shock assembly and extends the shock down to create lift. The advantage to the top plate spacer is that they do not change the ride of the truck at all and they are generally easier to install. The disadvantage is that you are extending the length of the shock and the shock is what limits the travel of the front suspension. By extending that shock, you are also extended the travel of the suspension past what it was designed for. This can cause problems with overextended ball joints and CV axles.

Pros: Inexpensive, gives a decent amount of lift,
Cons: Coil spacers can stiffen the ride and prematurely sag the springs. Top plate spacers can over extended shocks, CV, and ball joints

Old Man Emu (OME) Lift Spring
Old Man Emu(a division of ARB) makes lift springs for the front and rear of the 4Runner. Many people are running these for lift. They are not overly expensive and still provide a good amount of lift and a quality ride. Trim packers can also be added to front and rear coils to ensure a leveled lift as many commonly misunderstand this.

Front options are:
  • 880 1" lift coil for stock weight.
  • 881 2.5" lift coil for stock weight.
  • 883 3" lift coil designed for 100 lbs. additional front weight.
  • 882 3" lift coil designed for 150+ lbs additional front weight.
  • A top plate spacer can be combined with the 881 coil for a full 3" lift
for the rear you can choose from:
  • 906 2" lift coil
  • 890 3" lift coil
  • 891 3" lift coil designed for additional weight.
Pros: Provides a decent amount of lift, gives a quality ride.
Cons: Not adjustable, more expensive than spacers. can sag over time.

Coilovers
Another way to lift your truck up to 3.5 is by using a adjustable coilover in the front and a lift spring like a OME or a FJ80 Landcruiser spring in the rear. A coilover is an adjustable shock/coil assembly that can be adjusted from stock height up to 3.5 depending on the brand. Just remember that the higher you crank the coilover up, the stiffer the ride becomes and the harsher your CV angle becomes. Coilovers are an excellent way to lift the front of your truck, and in some cases is an improvement on the stock ride quality. As good as coilovers are, they are also more expensive then spacers or a coil lift (like the OME above). An inexpensive coilover will cost around $1000 and can cost up to $2000 a set for the complete front and rear kit.

Pros: Adjustable height, best ride quality.
Cons: Expensive.

The FJ80 Landcruiser Spring
a cheap effective way to achieve a good amount of lift and flex is to install FRONT springs from a FJ80 (1991-1997) Landcruiser in the REAR of the 3rd gen. there are many different versions of these springs but that main way to identify them is to count how many wraps they have which generally will determine how much lift you will get. you can usually pick up a pair of these for under $100 at a junkyard or on a forum classified section.

  • 7 wrap is about 3-3.5" of lift
  • 8 is about 4"
  • 9 is about 5"
Height of spring/color code/wraps

  • 21" Blue Pink White 9.25 wraps
  • 21" Grey Orange White 9.25 wraps
  • 20.25" Blue Yellow White 8.75 wraps-one of these is a confirmed LX450
  • 19.5" Green Yellow White 8.25 wraps-one of these is a confirmed LX450
  • 19.5" Purple Green White 8 wraps
  • 19.25" Double Purple Dark Blue White 8 wraps
  • 19" Double Pink Light Blue White 7.5 wraps
  • 18.5" Double Pink Grey White 7.5 wraps
  • 18 7/8" Orange Orange White 7.75 wraps
you can also use the OME 851, which is a lift spring for the FJ80. that usually gives about 6 inches of lift.

Pros: Cheap, lots of lift, flexes really well.
Cons: Will sag under load.

The TRD Tundra Spring

The front spring and shock from the 2000-06 Tundra TRD can be used to lift the front of the 4Runner. The part numbers and color codes are:


  • Driver side - 48131-AF100 Yellow/Yellow
  • Passenger side - 48131-AF090 Yellow/Blue

These springs are a progressive rate coil which means that they start out soft and get stiffer as they compress. this gives the 4Runner and soft ride while still providing good handling both on and off road. These springs generally yield about 2.5" of lift. there are companies selling the Tundra spring with a Bilstein adjustable shock which can be adjusted to get more lift.

Pros: Provides a decent amount of lift, durable.
Cons: Can settle and give a harsher ride, not as adjustable as a coilover

The 99 Highlander Springs
If you want a small lift or have worn out springs, a good option might be to change out your springs for springs from the 1999 4Runner Highlander Edition. these springs sat 1" higher than any other 3rd Gen 4Runner. They can be ordered online or at a Toyota dealer.

99 spring part numbers:
  • Front Passenger Side Springs - Blue / Yellow (48131-35400)
  • Front Driver Side Springs - Blue / Pink (48131 - 35350)
  • Both Rear Springs - Yellow / Red (48231 - 35210)

Pros: Fairly inexpensive, OEM ride quality.
Cons: Small amount of lift. (might be all you want)

Other Suspension Lift Components:
There are many other parts to lift the 3rd Gen other than just springs and shocks. some are required, some are highly recommended, and some are optional.

The Diff Drop
On 4Runners with suspension lifts over 2", the front CV axles operate at great an angle which increases wear and tear and can cause them to break under off-road conditions. One simple cure for this problem is to lower the differential on the front axle to reduce the angle on the CVs. So with a 1" diff drop on a 3" lifted truck, it returns the CV angles closer to that of a milder 2" lift.

Upper Control Arms
Aftermarket upper control arms allow for greater wheel travel, clearance between tire and UCA, and they improve alignment by adding more adjustability to the caster and camber. this will make the 4Runner easier to align and be able to get it right back to stock specs.

The Panhard Drop/Longer Panhard Bar
The panhard rod drop bracket lowers the frame end of the panhard rod to compensate for the rear end lift. The panhard rod helps to locate the rear axle side to side and if not adjusted for the lift, it will tend to pull the axle towards the passenger side due to its higher angle from the frame to the axle bracket.

Extended Brake Lines
When you lift the 4Runner, the distance between the body and the rear axle increases. there is a flexible brake line that runs down from the body to the rear axle and has slack which allows the suspension to travel and articulate. when you lift it, some of that slack is taken up and the line may not have enough to allow the suspension to articulate. a longer brake line will cure this.


Body Lifts:
Written by Brian2sun

Body lifts come in .5", 1", 1.5" 2", 2.5", and 3" (or anything in-between if you make it custom). Most of us (myself included) think BLs are best used in addition to a suspension lift primarily to clear bigger tires easier. Although you can do a BL alone, you only get clearance for bigger tires - unlike a suspension lift which still gives you more clearance for tires, but you also get more ground clearance for the chassis and more travel/articulation in the suspension too. I run a 3" OME suspension lift along with a 1" BL to clear my 33.5"+ tires. W/O the BL, my tires would rub.

If you are doing it strictly for looks, leave now. Really, though a BL is THE CHEAPEST WAY TO LIFT. So if you are a mall queen, this might be best for you.

1-1.5" BLs on '97-02s don't require anything special except removing the lower radiator shroud (which takes seconds). If you have a stock bumper, you'll want to get a bumper bracket lift so you won't have a gap between the body and the bumper (since the body goes up but the bumper is connected to the frame which stays put). '96s have 2 less body mounts than the other 3rd gens so those must be added to do a BL (safely at least) as well as a steering rag joint extension. All of these extras can be purchased from:
Toyota 4Runner/Hilux Surf Body Lift Kit Pricing/Ordering Page

If you're doing a more than a 1" BL, there are modifications you need to make like dropping the radiator and extending shifter linkage. For more info:
3rd Gen 4Runner Body Lift Installation

Installing a BL (especially a 1" on a '97-02) is pretty easy even if you have limited mechanical knowledge. If you're the DIY type (which you better learn to be fast in this hobby), refer to the link directly above for important info.

Pros: Cheap, easy to install, can be added to a suspension lift for more height.
Cons: Does not increase ground clearance or suspension travel.

Prices:

Generally you get what you pay for when it comes to performance and comfort with your suspension. here are a few examples of what you can expect to pay for different types of lift kits

Spacer kits: $100-200
Front spacer/ rear coil lift: $200-350
New coil springs(no shocks): $300- 400
Shocks and coil springs: $600-800
Adjustable coilover kits: $1000-2000

Companies:
there are many different companies that offer lifts for the 3rd Gen 4Runner. which company you choose to go with depends on what your needs are.
here are a few companies with what they offer

NOTE: these companies and many others offer much more than what is listed, these are just examples of what is offered.

After you install your lift

GET AN ALIGNMENT

How much lift do i have?/What is the stock vehicle measurement?

Its hard to say exact since there are a different height stock springs (99 talls vs 01-02) and the stock springs will probably have some sag by now. But a good baseline is that most 3rd gens should measure 20 inches from the center of the hub up to the fender in the front and about 20.5 in the rear.

Disclaimer thing:
This writeup is for informational purposes only. I have compiled info that I have written, info that others have submitted, and info from other articles. I take no credit for what other people have written and I assume no responsibility for what you choose after you read this. This writeup is not meant to promote any particular companies products. It is strictly to explain the many options for lifting the 3rd gen.

PM me if you see something that should be added or changed. Mods, if you feel something should be edited, feel free to do it. Please just PM me the changes.
 
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IN PROGRESS

PM me if you see something that should be added or changed :thumb3:

Info complied by Brian2sun, ChildrenOfBodom, Duhockey, kregg, steezemcqueen, xskydivingdudex



Disclaimer thing
This writeup is for informational purposes only. i have complied info that i have written, info that others have submitted, and info from other articles. i take no credit for what other people have written and i assume no responsibility for what you choose after you read this. This writeup is not meant to promote any particular companies products. It is strictly to explain the many options for lifting the 3rd gen.

edit: Ditto on everything you wrote! I cut out most of the quote to keep the size down....

Bump until this becomes a sticky!!! you guys are great! thanks Steeze (reigning T4Rotm) for compiling this info!

I would add, that the rear Brake line extensions, the rear panhard brackets and other "rear accessories" are purely that... accessories...

Many have 4runners have been run with these lifts without panhard or brake extensions,

I will for the record state, that I will take no liability for your 4runner, but "I" and several others have foregone the "panhard extensions" and the "brakeline extensions" with no issues in extreme 4wheeling environments with no repercussions running LC coils..

so, if you want to spend another 40$-100%$ on those "accesories" more power to you, I personally do not feel it necessary, and others in this forum have concurred by their actions. again, your 4runner is your responsibilty though.

If you are looking for LC coils and are in the Denver neighborhood, then call Irbis Offroad,

if you are elsewhere, try ROCKI TOP AUTO ask for my wifes best friend Katy..

thanks,

Shon aka Duhockey
 
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yeah, Steeze is my boy, and he put together a Kick @ss piece of info that needs to be

STICKIED!!!

immediately!

thanks mods/admins!

He credited me, so you know Im gonna back him! LOL
:thumb3:

BUMP
 
THanks!

Wow thanks guys! this is awesome! really gives a lot of important info! Thanks for putting all the time and detail into it.

Should be stickied!
 
Thanks Steeze and everyone else whose info was used in this thread! All of this info came at the perfect time, as I am researching about lifts and which one I want to eventually go with.

And I agree that this thread should be stickied!!!!
 
thanks guys

Im greedy and would love to have more info on different shocks:frog:

Same here! Thanks for everything in here so far! This should definitely be a sticky since there are lift question threads everywhere. I think the mods will make it a sticky once "complied" becomes "compiled" :biggrin2::zoom:

Edit: I just rated this thread 5 stars btw
 
Man this answers every question we ever needed to know. The only problem is...what shall we talk about now :)

All Jokes aside this truly is an excellent addition to the forums.
 
Scooorrre!!!! I was at the beach and didn't get to see this until I made it back... Awesome work everybody!

:bravo::bravo::bravo::cheers::cheers::bravo::bravo::bravo:
 
Nice work to all who helped! Glad it's a sticky now. As far as shocks go, if you want the full amount of travel with a new lift, you need to replace your stock shocks because they are short and will limit how much the coils can expand. This is not to say the stock shocks won't work, but you will not get the full articulation and travel that the new lift will provide and if you're going to do it, then I say do it right!

For the front, if you're using OME or TRD coils, or anything that gives you a 2-3" lift (including spacer lifts), OME, Bilstein, Tokico Trek Masters, and Rough Country Nitro 9000s are all popular shocks that are long-travel and will handle that kind of lift.

For the rear, if you're staying within the 3" of lift or less range, then the OME, Trekkmasters, or Nitros will work great. However, if you're using Land Cruiser coils (or anything that gives you more than 3"), the Bilsteins are the best choice because they are even longer than OMEs and most other brands and they will provide more articulation/travel.

Unfortunately, I don't know the specs on Ranchos, ProComps, and many other brands of shocks so hopefully others will chime in and say what works, but the ones I mentioned are some of the most common ones. I'm not hip to all the part #s for the different shocks (especially the Billies), but Steeze and the rest of you guys - feel free to use any or all of this info and add to it if you wish!
 
Great sticky Thanks for all the work/research to put this all together wish I had something like this when I was in the market for a lift. Great job.
 
Nice work! I know more than one of us who has spent countless hours trying to figure this all out for their rig. Great write-up!!!
 

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