02-04-2011, 06:00 PM
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#1
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battery light on
So my battery light on the dash came on yesterday, still starts great and don't notice any thing wrong, what could cause that? I did my timing belt a few weeks ago, might have the alternator belt too tight? How do you check the belt tension?
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Last edited by Spish; 02-04-2011 at 08:38 PM.
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02-04-2011, 09:05 PM
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#2
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Your alternator might be pooping on you. But before you get excited about getting a new alternator, check the connections on the battery. The battery light is on because the battery isn't maintaining a charge that the computer wants it at.
I had a situation with a race car long ago. Be it that it was a race car I rigged up a lot of stuff, one of which was using a smaller battery and thus rigged up a new positive cable. Apparently I did a crappy job at it and the battery wasn't getting a good connection from the positive cable. Long story short, I was driving one day and saw the battery light come on, thought nothing of it, then it flickered and one day while on the interstate the car just pooped on me. Problem bad connection to the battery.
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02-04-2011, 10:03 PM
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#3
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bad alternator (brushes, internal regulator, rectifier set, short/open windings), loose belt, bad battery cables, bad alternator wiring/connections, loose/missing grounds.
A little systematic trouble shooting is required, but cleaning and tightening battery terminals (also clean battery top if it needs it) and the grounds at fender wall, alternator, and the one on engine by diagnostic plug are are good ideas anyway. See if you have charging voltage at the battery terminals of 14-15V. Verify state of charge of battery to see if it is going down--should be 12V-12.5+V with engine off. Also check alternator fusible link in engine junction box. That's how I'd start.
Don't ignore it. Battery will keep car running and starting for a short time (at night, less than 30 minutes) until it decides to crump at worst possible time: miles from home, at night, with wipers on due to rain or snow.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 02-04-2011 at 10:30 PM.
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02-04-2011, 10:17 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAB
The battery light is on because the battery isn't maintaining a charge that the computer wants it at.
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This is not precisely true. The light indicates that the battery is discharging rather than charging or doing nothing. If the motor is running and the alternator is producing current, the battery should be receiving a charge, not discharging. It can be fully charged but show a warning light because the alternator is not supplying voltage to the car. The computer isn't even in the warning light circuit, the signal comes straight from the alternator's voltage regulator.
Charging circuit diagram (Factory Wiring Manual)
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 02-04-2011 at 10:20 PM.
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02-04-2011, 10:25 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
This is not precisely true. The light indicates that the battery is discharging rather than charging or doing nothing. If the motor is running and the alternator is producing current, the battery should be receiving a charge, not discharging. It can be fully charged but show a warning light because the alternator is not supplying voltage to the car. The computer isn't even in the warning light circuit, the signal comes straight from the alternator's voltage regulator.
Charging circuit diagram (Factory Wiring Manual)
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Excellent, thanks for clarifying.
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-1999 4Runner 4x4 265/75/16 All terrains. Got Hella lights. TJM Tacoma bumper moded for a 4Runner. Tundra coils with 890s in the rear.
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02-04-2011, 10:38 PM
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#6
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Check it out asap - if it's a dead or dying alternator it can kill the battery along with it if you leave things too long - a bad battery can similarly put excessive demands on your alternator and lead to early failure of that also.
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02-04-2011, 10:59 PM
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#7
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may as well upgrade to the big gm cs 144
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98 4runner sr5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 e-locker sold 10/2/11
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02-04-2011, 11:35 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H
may as well upgrade to the big gm cs 144 
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what is this upgrade you speak of!? i must know
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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02-05-2011, 04:23 AM
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#9
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Looks like it is my alternator, I put a voltmeter on the battery with the engine off and had 12V, started it and it didn't go up. Looks like I have a valve cover leak and the oil might have fouled the alternator brushes, anyone have any idea what I could try to clean it with? The alternator is only about 1 year old.
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97 Limited
- 17" Tundras/285 Duratracs, Spidertrax, Toytec Ultimate lift/ Toytec 1" body lift/ SS adj Panhard bar, Deckplate, 4X innovations DOM sliders, Some stickers for extra power
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02-05-2011, 04:37 AM
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#10
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Do you have a warranty on it? and I know when you get mud in there you can ussually just rinse it out with a water hose i dont know if that will work for this though.
Let me know what else you come up with becuase mine just came on today after I put in my new HID headlights and used my lights on my rack for about an hour tonight. So I'm interested in to see why it did that.
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Future mods. custom skids, custom sliders, tube doors, quality offroad lights lol...
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02-05-2011, 05:23 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the kid
what is this upgrade you speak of!? i must know 
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its a bigger better alternator with 100amps of juice at idle not the 60 or so the factory one has CS-144 alternator install - YotaTech Forums
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98 4runner sr5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 e-locker sold 10/2/11
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02-05-2011, 12:03 PM
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#12
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First, I would recommend you take the alt. to a shop that can bench test it for you. This eliminates any possibility the fault is in the on-board wiring. If you settle for a test with it on the motor, make sure they connect right to the alt. Some of these auto-parts stores don't and then try and sell you a new alt when all you needed was a cable. Don't fall into the trap of buying a cheap reman and turning in your stock Denso for core. Try and fix it yourself or get someone to repair it. The after-market and remans probably won't last as long as a repaired Denso.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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02-05-2011, 03:55 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk
First, I would recommend you take the alt. to a shop that can bench test it for you. This eliminates any possibility the fault is in the on-board wiring. If you settle for a test with it on the motor, make sure they connect right to the alt. Some of these auto-parts stores don't and then try and sell you a new alt when all you needed was a cable. Don't fall into the trap of buying a cheap reman and turning in your stock Denso for core. Try and fix it yourself or get someone to repair it. The after-market and remans probably won't last as long as a repaired Denso.
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I put the voltmeter off the terminal on the alternator and got about 11.5V, so I think its putting out enough to keep the battery just charged enough, but low enough to turn the battery light on.
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If you don't stand behind our troops... feel free to stand in front of them!
97 Limited
- 17" Tundras/285 Duratracs, Spidertrax, Toytec Ultimate lift/ Toytec 1" body lift/ SS adj Panhard bar, Deckplate, 4X innovations DOM sliders, Some stickers for extra power
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02-05-2011, 04:24 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spish
I put the voltmeter off the terminal on the alternator and got about 11.5V, so I think its putting out enough to keep the battery just charged enough...
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I doubt it. You are pretty close to toast at 11.5V.
How cold is it there? Be careful or that battery may freeze on you--I heard about some low temps at night in AZ.
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'99 4Runner SR5 5spd 3.4L V6 4WD(U.S), original '99 Talls in front, OME 906s in back, Hella fogs, Trekmaster shocks in front, Billy in back, no running boards, FIAMM horns, Alpine sound, Michelin LTX M/S2's, owned since new.
'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
Last edited by TheDurk; 02-05-2011 at 04:30 PM.
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02-05-2011, 09:00 PM
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#15
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Just used some CRC electrocleaner on the alternator and cleaned all the terminals, only getting 11.7 before starting and goes down to 11.5 after start up. Getting the same number when checking the terminal off the alternator. Guess I'll take it out and get it bench checked. Thanks for all the info guys!
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97 Limited
- 17" Tundras/285 Duratracs, Spidertrax, Toytec Ultimate lift/ Toytec 1" body lift/ SS adj Panhard bar, Deckplate, 4X innovations DOM sliders, Some stickers for extra power
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