[quicksilvr]

There are 3 different 4Runner's in this build thread. You can see my first rig right below on the the first page. My old '99 Highlander follows.

To see my current rig, start here: 2001 SR5 Supercharged






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From the beginning:


My first 4Runner was a 1996 Limited. I owned it for about a year, and then sold it to my brother who lives in Colorado.

Specs on the '96 Limited:

Pic:


-3" ProComp suspension lift
-Diff Drop
-285/75R16 BFGoodrich All-Terrain K/O
-RR Diff Locker
-K&N Intake
-Full exhaust with Flowmaster muffler and dump tube
-Interior/dash changed to white LED's
-New leather on both front seats



Obviously, the '96 was already a pretty nice rig. I wanted to upgrade to a '99, preferably a Highlander, so when I found my truck I knew it was the one.




2/15/2010
Specs on my 1999 SR5 Highlander when I bought it:

-Factory tall coils
-Bilstein HD shocks
-RR Diff Locker
-Rocky Road Supersliders
-BudBuilt IFS and Belly skids
-Crager Soft 8 wheels
-265/75R16 BFGoodrich Mud Terrain KM1's
-SS Extreme Duty Rear Lower Links

It also came with:

-Factory 5-star alloys
-265/75R16 Bridgestone Revo's
-Factory running boards
-Husky floor liners


This is a picture from the drive home right after I bought it. The back was loaded with the Crager/BFG combo, running boards, etc.





3/10/2010

It got parked in the garage right away, and I had several weeks to work on it while I was still driving the '96 Limited.

When it rolled out of the garage for the first time, I had already done this stuff:

-Remove BudBuilt skids (to fix clanking sound and re-install correctly)
-Remove sliders (to have media blasted/re-powdercoated and installed with stainless hardware)
-Install Crager/BFG's
-Change all dash lighting to white LED's
-Install Kenwood HU
-Remove old amp and wiring and clean up JL audio wiring for component system with crossovers
-Deep clean entire interior (seats out, etc)
-"Blue Wire" mod for E-Locker
-Oil change with a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) from Blackstone Labs (more on this below)











This is what it looked like at that point...rollin' out in winter







Both 'runners together before the '96 Limited left for Colorado





First UOA (Used Oil Analysis)



Wasn't too thrilled with this first UOA, but in hindsight, the oil probably had like 7000+ miles on it. And I have no clue what brand it was. I should have had it changed at a quicklube before I drove 1300 miles home on it. Anyway. I thought I might have some issues, and was kind of feeling down about the truck overall after getting it home, going through everything and having this first UOA done. But, I have since done 2 more UOA's, and everything looks great now. I have a strong engine that is showing normal/low wear, and I expect lots of life out of it.

Here is my most recent UOA (you can see all previous UOA on the sheet)






4/25/2010

I did mostly cosmetic stuff at first:

-Clear corners
-Clear turn signals
-Remove dents from hood
-Touchup paint

First clean after winter








6/13/2010

Next I did a bunch of maintenance stuff and a few upgrades:

-Changed RR Diff, T-Case, and FR Diff fluid to Amsoil 75w-90
-Lubed Drivetrain
-Drained/Refilled coolant
-Installed B&M 70268 transmission cooler (bypass stock cooler)
-Installed Magnafine trans filter
-Put the 5-star/Revo combo on the truck for summer and road trips
-Deckplate mod
-Rear diff breather extension
-Fluid Film rust preventer on frame and undercarriage
-Installed Daystar rear spacers
-Alignment
-Power Steering flush
-Install ScanGauge II
-Transmission flush/filter/pan clean/etc




Currently (6/30/2010):

Looks pretty stock right now. I snapped these real fast today, the lighting sucks and the setting sucks....but it's better than nothing right?

[quicksilvr]

October 2010








I guess I'm still undecided on whether to re-install the sliders. If I do, I cannot install front mud guards. I won't really use the sliders as they are intended (no rocks around here) so they'd just be heavy duty side steps. Really heavy duty side steps.

I'm also need to find time to install my poly rack&pinion bushing set from Wheelers. Until I do that, I can't put the skids on.




Some winter pictures, January 2011.

[quicksilvr]

3/2011


I installed my poly rack bushings from Wheelers, and the install went better than anticipated. I still have a little vibration at speed, but it's probably just a wheel balance issue...but my major shaking is completely gone. Much nicer at 70mph than it used to be.

Also re-installed my BudBuilt skids. They are beastly pieces...and while I love them...they are dragging the front end of my truck down. It almost looks silly now. Rear height is 37.75" ground to fender...and the front is now 35.5". Ouch. The front had been 36.5". So the skids pulled it down a whole inch.

I think I'm going to take the belly skid off until further notice. Hopefully I can afford to put some Tundra coils with adjustable Bilstein 5100's up front to handle the weight and lift me back up to the 37" range.




3/25/2011

Ski trip to Colorado...

[fightman80]

Lookin good man!

[4-Ripcord]

Never realized you didn't have a build. Glad you do now! So what is this work you are getting ready to start?

[jd31]

Beautiful rig you've got there! Which flowmaster muffler do you have, and how do you like it? I'm in between flowmaster and a magnaflow.

edit: I must have missed the picture, but it looks like you got mud flaps at one point.

I noticed you don't have mud flaps in the front. Does that bother you? The dirt it kicks up on your truck that is. I recently took of my running boards and first puddle I encountered sent mud all up the sides of my truck. I just ordered OEM mud flaps. Way overpriced plastic but it'll do the trick. Anyway was just curious.

[quicksilvr]

I'm getting ready to install TRD Tundra front shocks/coils, 285/75 BFG A/Ts, remove the belly skid, and do a bunch of maintenance work. Also have some DDM HID's that are going in.

I'm going to try to solve my long-cranking issue. Plan is to remove and clean up a bunch of stuff, because I have a small wiring issue as well, probably a bad ground somewhere. My right side marker light doesn't work, and the gear shifter light doesn't work either. Weird huh.


All the injectors are coming out, getting tested, and if they're good, getting send to Witchhunter. I think that might solve my long cranking issue....my theory is that I'm losing fuel pressure.

[Hepar]

Originally Posted by 4-Ripcord

Never realized you didn't have a build. Glad you do now! So what is this work you are getting ready to start?

X2. Glad you did it because now we can look at all the pics in one place!

[awpsome]

Sweet build man!
She's lookin good. After the lift should be even better!

[quicksilvr]

Originally Posted by jd31

Beautiful rig you've got there! Which flowmaster muffler do you have, and how do you like it? I'm in between flowmaster and a magnaflow.

edit: I must have missed the picture, but it looks like you got mud flaps at one point.

I noticed you don't have mud flaps in the front. Does that bother you? The dirt it kicks up on your truck that is. I recently took of my running boards and first puddle I encountered sent mud all up the sides of my truck. I just ordered OEM mud flaps. Way overpriced plastic but it'll do the trick. Anyway was just curious.

Thanks!

I have a Magnaflow 14255 installed. My old truck had a glasspack and a Flowmaster 50 series on it.

I like the Magnaflow alot. It's got about 5000 miles on it now, and it sounds awesome.


As far as mud flaps: I put the factory rear mudguards on a while back, and they're fine. They work great, but I don't like the look. I'm going to trim them when I put my 33's on. For front mudflaps, I have one side on. lol. I didn't realize it until I went to install the front mudguards, that my right fender has a run-in with a rock when the previous owner took it wheeling. It's completely invisible....unless you're trying to install the mudguard, and then the holes don't line up, and you can see where the bottom of the fender got pushed up and dented.

I'm going to replace the fender eventually, and then I'll probably actually get rid of the mud guards....because I'm going to install my rock sliders. I think the 4runner is going to remain a 3rd vehicle, relegated to offroading and winter driving. So the rock sliders will go back on!

[tmaxx13]

I really like your runner, its very clean and well done! keep up the great MOD's

[96743runner]

I've always loved your Highlander...looking forward to following your build!

[Ron Helmuth]

Newer ride looking outstanding. Never spotted anything wrong with the 96 for that matter.

I'm still perplexed by that right marker light not working.

Good luck with that injector check out also.

[Ron Helmuth]

found this over on YOTA TECH regarding injectors-

Fuel Injector Experience. - YotaTech Forums

However I would think if there was an issue they would be throwing a code?

just trying to be helpful-way outside of my actual knowledge base.

[quicksilvr]

Originally Posted by Ron Helmuth

found this over on YOTA TECH regarding injectors-

Fuel Injector Experience. - YotaTech Forums

However I would think if there was an issue they would be throwing a code?

just trying to be helpful-way outside of my actual knowledge base.

Thanks for the link Ron.

Basically, I've narrowed down my long cranking symptom to one major factor: how long the truck sits after being running. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. If I start the truck, drive down the block and shut it off, it'll start immediately back up if it sits for less than 10 minutes.... engine cold. If it's 100 degree's outside and the engine is 200 degrees, it'll also start back up immediately if it sits for less than 10 minutes. But if it sits for more than 10-15 minutes, hot or cold...it long cranks.


A lot of the time when it long cranks, my exhaust smells extra rich.

And finally, I've had it make a horrible "rattle/clang" sound a couple times at the end of a long cranking. I can't tell if it's the starter binding up....or detonation from fuel igniting that's been sitting in the cylinder. But all signs point to an injector leaking pressure and losing fuel into one of the cylinders. Or possibly losing fuel pressure out the other end, into the tank. But my bets are on the injectors.



Truck runs like a champ and gets decent gas mileage, considering I'm running mud tires on heavy steel wheels and I've got 150lbs of skids on the truck. So that makes me think it might not be an injector...seems that it would rear it's head in general driving as well. But who knows. I'm hopefully jacking the truck up, taking wheels off, taking the belly skid off and starting to take the engine bay apart tomorrow evening. Hopefully. Two kids under the age of 2, full time job and responsibilities even outside of those two area's make "truck working on time" a rare thing. lol