What to look for? (Buying a 4th Gen)

I am looking at a 2007 4runner V8 4x4 with a 195,000 miles on it. The carfax has good history (for oil changes and brakes but nothing else). Its been in the same family since new.

Recent Maintenance: Calipers, Rotors, Wheel Bearings, Exhaust Manifold all with paper work. However the abs and traction control lights are on, the seller mentioned this occurred after the manifold was changed because "the shop reused the sensor" (o2?). IF it is an o2 sensor is this a relatively easy DYI job? Or what sensor would cause this?

She doesn't (nor her mother) remember if the timing belt/water pump was ever done - any concern there? I intended on having the maintenance done before driving it if the sale goes through.

Any red flags to look for regarding the transmission/drivetrain?

Any advice is much appreciated!

A lot of times the timing belt service date will be written on the engine cover or by the radiator with a Sharpie, so look for that under the hood somewhere. You can also go to the Toyota owners' website and plug in the VIN to see what service has been done by Toyota dealers, and if there are any outstanding recalls or service campaigns. If the timing belt needs to be done, figure about $1000 in round figures to have that done.

Is the check engine light on as well, or just the abs/trac lights? If it's just the abs/trac, it could be in need of a zero point cal, which is an easy DIY job.

If the CEL is on as well, it could be any one of a large number of things. In that case, I'd have someone check for diag codes, or do it yourself. An OBDII code reader is about $20 from Amazon - well worth the money if you own or will own a car > 5 years old. It's so much better to let the vehicle tell you what's wrong than to guess based on hearsay from an owner or anonymous mechanic.

Chances are good that the transmission and drive train are in good shape, especially if it's never done heavy towing - the failure rate of those parts is low unless the lubricants get contaminated. You'll probably want to have those gear boxes drained and refreshed fairly soon at that mileage.

Check the CV boots for splits. Pretty likely to have happened by now if the CV's are original. You can change both CV's in your garage in an afternoon for $150 or less if you buy reman units. There's a good thread in this forum about how to do it.

Americas High Five said:

I am looking at a 2007 4runner V8 4x4 with a 195,000 miles on it. The carfax has good history (for oil changes and brakes but nothing else). Its been in the same family since new.

Recent Maintenance: Calipers, Rotors, Wheel Bearings, Exhaust Manifold all with paper work. However the abs and traction control lights are on, the seller mentioned this occurred after the manifold was changed because "the shop reused the sensor" (o2?). IF it is an o2 sensor is this a relatively easy DYI job? Or what sensor would cause this?

She doesn't (nor her mother) remember if the timing belt/water pump was ever done - any concern there? I intended on having the maintenance done before driving it if the sale goes through.

Any red flags to look for regarding the transmission/drivetrain?

Any advice is much appreciated!

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I don't know if the timing belt issue is a big deal to others, but it was for me looking at a 2003 V8 4Runner before I purchased my 2004 V6. The seller had this V8 model with approx 120K on it, but couldn't show the belt had been done, and wouldn't pay to inspect it themselves and it seemed fishy given they also knew it had a 90-100k maintenance interval approximately. I'm sure others would chime in, but in my mind, unless the seller knocks off more from the sticker price for you to pay for a timing belt (and water pump maybe while you're in there), then I might dodge it. Just saying. I hope this doesn't spook you because it COULD be a good deal... :fish:

I wouldn't avoid the V8 because of the timing belt. $1000 every 100K miles is only $.01 per mile, which is pretty low in terms of overall ownership and driving costs. The V8 is such a good engine otherwise I wouldn't hold that against it.

I would, however, use that as negotiation in terms of price. All else being equal, the vehicle is worth $1000 less if the belt is due than if it's just been done.

RonJR said:

A lot of times the timing belt service date will be written on the engine cover or by the radiator with a Sharpie....plug in the VIN to see what service has been done by Toyota dealers....figure about $1000 in round figures to have that done.

Is the check engine light on as well, or just the abs/trac lights? If it's just the abs/trac, it could be in need of a zero point cal, which is an easy DIY job.

...

Chances are good that the transmission and drive train are in good shape, especially if it's never done heavy towing - the failure rate of those parts is low unless the lubricants get contaminated. You'll probably want to have those gear boxes drained and refreshed fairly soon at that mileage.

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I haven't seen the vehicle in person yet but I will definitely look for the timing belt service mark

There was no mention of the CEL which sounds like is good news.

I intended on changing out all major fluids regardless for piece of mind, it does have tow package and there is a hitch/ball however it was driven by a Mother/Daughter so I doubt much if any major towing was done.

RonJR said:

I wouldn't avoid the V8 because of the timing belt. $1000 every 100K miles is only $.01 per mile, which is pretty low in terms of overall ownership and driving costs. The V8 is such a good engine otherwise I wouldn't hold that against it.

I would, however, use that as negotiation in terms of price. All else being equal, the vehicle is worth $1000 less if the belt is due than if it's just been done.

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They are asking $7,500 but I think with the looming timing belt maintenance and the sensor issue, $6,000 was much more fair

RonJR said:

A lot of times the timing belt service date will be written on the engine cover or by the radiator with a Sharpie, so look for that under the hood somewhere. You can also go to the Toyota owners' website and plug in the VIN to see what service has been done by Toyota dealers, and if there are any outstanding recalls or service campaigns.

Click to expand...

Just checked Toyota Owners website and it appears the timing was changed at 76,000 miles back in 2010. That seems premature but no mention of the water pump...

Americas High Five said:

Just checked Toyota Owners website and it appears the timing was changed at 76,000 miles back in 2010. That seems premature but no mention of the water pump...

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I believe the water pump has a differing interval from the belt, but most folks do it "While they're in there" to cut down on labor costs and do it preemtively. Not sure if yours would need it or not now.

Check the radiator really well too. I had a leak in mine but couldn't see it really well until I started taking things apart in there.

V8....
almost 200K......
9yrs old.....
Any minute now your going to have issue with what we call the AIP system. Basically a smog pump. Entire threads are devoted to it on here. The system is useless in terms of performance or efficiency. Purpose is to heat up the catalytic converter quickly in order to burn unburned combustion gases. It is a fancy bellows pump system. Lots of parts to it. They all fail. Bring to your dealer to get $1500+ quote to replace. Then research "AIP Bypass", you can build your own or buy them. I would recommend you do this bypass BEFORE you start having issues. It is cheap insurance. Not to scare you! This is simple effective mod. I've had mine in for 4+ years now( I think in Feb will be 5yrs) Works great. The V8 is way to go IMO. Awesome truck.

slyfox75 said:

V8....
almost 200K......
9yrs old.....
Any minute now your going to have issue with what we call the AIP system. Basically a smog pump. Entire threads are devoted to it on here. The system is useless in terms of performance or efficiency. Purpose is to heat up the catalytic converter quickly in order to burn unburned combustion gases. It is a fancy bellows pump system. Lots of parts to it. They all fail. Bring to your dealer to get $1500+ quote to replace. Then research "AIP Bypass", you can build your own or buy them. I would recommend you do this bypass BEFORE you start having issues. It is cheap insurance. Not to scare you! This is simple effective mod. I've had mine in for 4+ years now( I think in Feb will be 5yrs) Works great. The V8 is way to go IMO. Awesome truck.

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Good point about the air pump. The bypass is such a complete solution that I forgot about that issue. Aren't you the one I bought the bypass from? Great value!

slyfox75 said:

V8....
almost 200K......
9yrs old.....
Any minute now your going to have issue with what we call the AIP system. ...The system is useless in terms of performance or efficiency...

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So if and when it fails will it be undriveable?

How difficult is the installation? Is it plug & play/bolt-on?

RonJR said:

.....

Is the check engine light on as well, or just the abs/trac lights? If it's just the abs/trac, it could be in need of a zero point cal, which is an easy DIY job.

.......

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I was able to get the seller to send a picture of the dash lights, no CEL.

Get a CARFAX. you want to know its history.

Another issue to beware of with the V8s is the exhaust manifolds. Its a great engine but the exhaust manifolds can crack. If they crack there is a ticking noise while under load. It can start to sound pretty bad. I am not aware of this being an issue on V6 models. I was quoted $1500 per side to replace...

ben550 said:

Another issue to beware of with the V8s is the exhaust manifolds. Its a great engine but the exhaust manifolds can crack. If they crack there is a ticking noise while under load. It can start to sound pretty bad. I am not aware of this being an issue on V6 models. I was quoted $1500 per side to replace...

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The seller did say they had the manifold replaced recently and has the paperwork for it!

Typing this out on my phone, so I don't have time to provide much data, but make sure the truck will go into 4LO. There's quite a few posts out here regarding bad transfer case actuators.