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empty403
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Out goes the 3rds
Removed the 3rds for 4.56 Nitro Gears and Harrop E-Lockers. Sent the 3rds out to Zuk - GearInstalls.com.
Zuk ordered the gears for me and he got me a discount from JustDifferentials.com.
Bought both lockers from YotaLockers.co and had them shipped to Zuk. You can contact Ward for locker details, since there are 2 versions of lockers for the front diff of the 4th Gen 4Runner/120 series.
Removed the 3rds for 4.56 Nitro Gears and Harrop E-Lockers. Sent the 3rds out to Zuk - GearInstalls.com.
Zuk ordered the gears for me and he got me a discount from JustDifferentials.com.
Bought both lockers from YotaLockers.co and had them shipped to Zuk. You can contact Ward for locker details, since there are 2 versions of lockers for the front diff of the 4th Gen 4Runner/120 series.
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empty403
New member
Pinch Weld Mod
Hammered down the pinch welds in the front end. It's easier if you pre-bend the pinch weld with a Crescent wrench before hammering down. The lower half section is a lot tougher to bend. Then primered the area since the paint chipped off.
With 32" tires on and with the coilovers removed the LCA was lifted to check for clearance when the front is bottomed out. I have just under 1" at the tightest section. Barely enough for the 34.1" tire I will be getting - 305/70R17s.
Hammered down the pinch welds in the front end. It's easier if you pre-bend the pinch weld with a Crescent wrench before hammering down. The lower half section is a lot tougher to bend. Then primered the area since the paint chipped off.
With 32" tires on and with the coilovers removed the LCA was lifted to check for clearance when the front is bottomed out. I have just under 1" at the tightest section. Barely enough for the 34.1" tire I will be getting - 305/70R17s.
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empty403
New member
Dual Battery Tray and SwitchPro 8100
Installed the 2nd battery tray from DirtyParts by the firewall. The tray was minor Ly modified by adding an L bracket so I could bolt it onto a flat spot instead of using DPs suggested corner mounting location.
Also, the lower mount was modified to fit a bracket to hold the SwitchPro module. I labeled the wires to make it easier for wiring later on.
Installed the 2nd battery tray from DirtyParts by the firewall. The tray was minor Ly modified by adding an L bracket so I could bolt it onto a flat spot instead of using DPs suggested corner mounting location.
Also, the lower mount was modified to fit a bracket to hold the SwitchPro module. I labeled the wires to make it easier for wiring later on.
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empty403
New member
Safari Snorkel SS171HP
Drilled holes and used an angle grinder to cut off the excess sheet metal, for the snorkel. I used a heat gun to mould the front section of the snorkel as well as parts of the section next to the hole that goes into the fender. I'd heat it up and press the snorkel hard into the body, this was done a few times. I also used automotive stick-on rubber gasketing to fill the gaps around the snorkel. The plastic fender was slowly trimmed to be able to fit around the lower section of the snorkel.
Drilled holes and used an angle grinder to cut off the excess sheet metal, for the snorkel. I used a heat gun to mould the front section of the snorkel as well as parts of the section next to the hole that goes into the fender. I'd heat it up and press the snorkel hard into the body, this was done a few times. I also used automotive stick-on rubber gasketing to fill the gaps around the snorkel. The plastic fender was slowly trimmed to be able to fit around the lower section of the snorkel.
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empty403
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I just got it back up and running a couple days ago. The brakes actually feel weak because I forgot that I needed to break-in the new rings and pinions so I put the original discs in. I got new discs and pads so I didn't mark where the original discs came from and now they have to reseat again since those discs have grooves. The brakes are getting stronger each day, though. I needed the SS lines because of the new lift I put on. I believe the noticable impact will be the rotors and pads after bead in process.
empty403
New member
Installed Diffs with Harrop Lockers with Cryo Treated 4.56 Nitro gears
Got the 3rds back from Zuk and installed them. Here's a link to Zuk's page on the work performed: Toyota clamshell harrop elocker 456 thick gears
A thin layer of Honda Bond was applied to both sides of the 3rd member gasket.
I had 1 bad rear axel seal, probably due to the 1-way Diff valve which creates a strong vacuum after the differential cools down. So it'll be a good time to remove the OEM one-way valve and install a Harrop Breather kit.
The front hub seals were also changed due to the rubber breaking apart. The front swaybar relocting bracket did double duty to also install that seal. I included a picture of the part numbers of the seals, O-rings and front hub covers which were all changed.
Got the 3rds back from Zuk and installed them. Here's a link to Zuk's page on the work performed: Toyota clamshell harrop elocker 456 thick gears
A thin layer of Honda Bond was applied to both sides of the 3rd member gasket.
I had 1 bad rear axel seal, probably due to the 1-way Diff valve which creates a strong vacuum after the differential cools down. So it'll be a good time to remove the OEM one-way valve and install a Harrop Breather kit.
The front hub seals were also changed due to the rubber breaking apart. The front swaybar relocting bracket did double duty to also install that seal. I included a picture of the part numbers of the seals, O-rings and front hub covers which were all changed.
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LOSTR4
Member
Sir, your 4runner has changed vastly in a matter of weeks! Your tease-shot photos of your fabwork and add-ons has given me the bug again! Nice work and keep it up! Use some 1/4" rubber hose cut in half as the surround of the snorkel hole in your fender! Tighter fit and cleaner finish...that's all I have to say. Keep it up!
empty403
New member
Thanks! The snorkel is for a Tacoma so it didn't fit right. There's probably about a 3/16" gap around the snorkel. So I used some stick-on D-shaped automotive rubber gasket to fill the gap and it surprisingly looks decent, now. I left the bottom of the snorkel gasket free to let any water drain downwards. I have to leave the front flares off until I get the front bumper installed and 305/70R17 MTRs put on and check what I'll need to cut off the lower fender.
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empty403
New member
LCA Alignment Cam Bolt Preventative Maintenance
A good friend/mechanic that's been helping me with my build recommended I lube all 4 of the LCA alignment cam bolts. He has seen them rust/seize and break during alignments. I coated them with "Green Grease" - synthetic marine grease. These alignment bolts were marked and removed 1 at a time. Due to the LCA glued in bushings and to lessen the binding, the bolts will need to be again loosened then re-tightened while the vehicle is at its settled ride height.
A good friend/mechanic that's been helping me with my build recommended I lube all 4 of the LCA alignment cam bolts. He has seen them rust/seize and break during alignments. I coated them with "Green Grease" - synthetic marine grease. These alignment bolts were marked and removed 1 at a time. Due to the LCA glued in bushings and to lessen the binding, the bolts will need to be again loosened then re-tightened while the vehicle is at its settled ride height.
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empty403
New member
Icon C/O CDCV installation
Replaced the Bilstein 5100 setup with Icon 2.5s extended travel/long travel with CDCV for the front and rear. It was pretty tough to install the front reservoir in the passenger side due to the washer fluid reservoir. The Icon C/Os top mounting bolts only came with lock washers so I ended up purchasing large washers for each bolt. I also added a couple drops of red Loctite as extra precaution.
Replaced the Bilstein 5100 setup with Icon 2.5s extended travel/long travel with CDCV for the front and rear. It was pretty tough to install the front reservoir in the passenger side due to the washer fluid reservoir. The Icon C/Os top mounting bolts only came with lock washers so I ended up purchasing large washers for each bolt. I also added a couple drops of red Loctite as extra precaution.
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empty403
New member
Icon CDCV Long Travel Rear Suspension installation
Disconnected the Pan Hard and both lower control arms (one at a time for each spring) to install each LT springs. The springs are side specific. The part number is near the top of each spring. The part number that ends with "-D" is meant for the driverside. Even though he driverside spring is slightly taller, I still noticed about 1/2" of driverside lean. Because of this, I ended up adding 2 Toytec 10mm shims (20mm total) on top of he driverside spring.
Another set back was the Toytec/Rokmon Lower Control arms are not compatible with the Long travel setup - at about 25" extension the LCA will hit the axel housing. The long travel shocks fully extend to 28.5". So I had to order the Metal Tech LCAs. Now, I'll need to take a loss and sell the new ToyTec LCAs, which were just hard coat anodized.
Disconnected the Pan Hard and both lower control arms (one at a time for each spring) to install each LT springs. The springs are side specific. The part number is near the top of each spring. The part number that ends with "-D" is meant for the driverside. Even though he driverside spring is slightly taller, I still noticed about 1/2" of driverside lean. Because of this, I ended up adding 2 Toytec 10mm shims (20mm total) on top of he driverside spring.
Another set back was the Toytec/Rokmon Lower Control arms are not compatible with the Long travel setup - at about 25" extension the LCA will hit the axel housing. The long travel shocks fully extend to 28.5". So I had to order the Metal Tech LCAs. Now, I'll need to take a loss and sell the new ToyTec LCAs, which were just hard coat anodized.
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rickashay
New member
Build looks great. You have a lot of the same parts that I have been acquiring. I actually looked at the Rokmen arms and wondered how they would work with the MT long travel. The MT arms (which I bought) are definitely offset more than any of the other aftermarket arms. Shame but you should still be able to get good coin for those pretty Rokmen arms.
Also good call on the Icon top bolts. I would rather use red loctite and washers than lock washers as well. Will be following your lead there. What size are those bolts again?
Also good call on the Icon top bolts. I would rather use red loctite and washers than lock washers as well. Will be following your lead there. What size are those bolts again?