2003 V8 budget build and dreams of theladyviola and Gypsy

theladyviola

New member
Once Upon A Time there was a crazy nurse in Nashville who had been exploring the land in her Scion xB pulling a tiny teardrop trailer. Her adventures over terrain were greatly limited by her fuel efficient box. One day the little hippie had a dream of traveling in a 3000# travel trailer and figured the best place to start was the tow vehicle. Being a Toyota enthusiast she searched high and low for the only vehicle she dare consider as her newest companion...the Toyota 4Runner. Finally, after many disappointing leads, the nurse nomad hippie adventurer found her chariot in the land of Atlanta. The new family member was given a name to befit her new life. Her name... Gypsy.

And this is the story of budget friendly preparations, mechanics, and shenanigans as they unfold...




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2003 Sport V8 4.7L 150k miles as she was in Nov when she was picked up in Atlanta. Two owner history and always been located in Georgia.
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The stereo had to go. I really needed music and half the speakers were blown. Went with a Kenwood DDX374BT on a Black Friday deal for $199 with free installation. Threw in the JBL GTO608c components in the front- on sale for $69. Picked up a pair of Infinity Ref Coax speakers for the rear doors for $20 off Craigslist. There's an Alpine power pack inline amp in the dash for the speakers. Ran all new speaker wires. Threw a boxed Pioneer 10" sub in the back with a Kenwood amp under the driver's seat. I'm not wowed by it but it'll do for now.
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Since I was already running wires, I picked up this thrifty little backup camera. It works great for the $.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0MBG61/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1

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The stereo had to go. I really needed music and half the speakers were blown. Went with a Kenwood DDX374BT on a Black Friday deal for $199 with free installation. Threw in the JBL GTO608c components in the front- on sale for $69. Picked up a pair of Infinity Ref Coax speakers for the rear doors for $20 off Craigslist. There's an Alpine power pack inline amp in the dash for the speakers. Threw a boxed Pioneer 10" sub in the back with a Kenwood amp under the driver's seat. I'm not wowed by it but it'll do for now.
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Nice! What are your plans for this build?
 
USB plugs gifted to me by the wonderful member [MENTION=114846]Bluesky 07[/MENTION]. Easy install and works great. I may upgrade down the road to more easily accommodate charging tablets but for now it's working just fine.

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I knew the actuator seals were trashed when I bought Gypsy. The plan was to make it through winter and then tackle it. So I started tackling it.
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I literally just pulled it so I'll update once I split it. I opted for the additional transfer case overhaul kit from my local Toyota parts dept so all the seals will be getting replaced. Got the actuator seals from Colonial Seal.


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Nice! What are your plans for this build?



I'm on vacation/staycation right now doing the following:

1. Front/rear springs changed- Moog front/FJ rear
2. Front/rear Bilstein 5100's with new strut mounts up front
3. Moog Tie rod ends
4. Moog Lower ball joints
5. Front/rear sway bar bushings-Prothane greasables
6. End link bushings- Energy Suspension
7. Front brake rotor/pad replacement- Power Stop kit (my calipers are fine and rear rotors/pads were changed 10K miles ago; brake system flushed 8K miles ago)
8. Reboot both inner/outer CV axle; replace axle and wheel seals- I prefer to reboot while the leak is new and keep the OEM axle
9. Actuator seals- dropping and splitting transfer case; replacing all transfer case seals/gaskets
10. Valve cover gasket replacement (spark plugs just replaced)
11. Rear window repair (off track) and bottom seal replacement
12. Aisin/Timing belt/water pump/tensioner kit
13. LCA bushings
14. New UCA's/upper ball joints
15. Power steering flush
16. Tranny fluid/filter
17. Spidertrax spacers

I also have a rear 1.5" spacer I may put in. I'm writing all this pretty much in real time. I have the front suspension off and have been cleaning things up, painting the frame and getting the fender liners coated in truck bed liner. Pretty sure I killed brain cells with the fumes yesterday.

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I have a Rhino cargo rack to put on later but I'll probably fabricate some mounting hardware and remove the factory roof rails.


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Got to pretty up that crazy faded cladding. Spent a few hours with a heat gun and then some 303 Aerospace Protectant.
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Subscribed to this build. Sounds like it will be great. You are doing all of this work yourself?



Lawd yes! It definitely wouldn't be budget if someone else were doing it. Short of the alignment and balancing tires, I'm not really big on paying others. My buddy and I grease monkey together. We both have xB's. I'm just happy I can crawl under a car without even jacking it up now. However, when it is on stands, I have to use steps to get to the engine compartment.


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Got to pretty up that crazy cladding. Spent a few hours with a heat gun and then some 303 Aerospace Protectant.
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More details on this please. Why 303 and not something else? What does the heat gun do? Do you apply the 303 while the cladding is still hot/warm?
 
As someone with a leaky transfer case I'd like to see more of that process.



I'll get some more pics as I go along. So far I've referred to this post for removal and will use it further as a guide

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/182074-fixing-transfer-case-shift-motor-leak-within.html

I did order the transmission extension housing seal too. It's right there, it's $8 so why not replace it and feel better about it?! Right now we're having to fabricate an extension for the breaker bar because one of the flange cuss nuts is refusing to budge. Apparently after researching, I'm not the only one who has struggled with this. To give you a heads up on what I've bought for this project:

-00295-1281 Orange FIPG
-90311-4307 trans extension housing seal
-90179-22016 flange nuts qty 2
-90301-56009 o-ring
-AS 15x23x7 NBR oil seal from Colonial Seal qty 2. I picked up spares.
-04362-35061 (new part #) overhaul gasket kit

I'm sure I'll break something and have to order it. There's a nice diagram around post 62 of the above link. The write up from the OP is one of the best I've found. Thanks [MENTION=96608]MandAtaco[/MENTION]







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More details on this please. Why 303 and not something else? What does the heat gun do? Do you apply the 303 while the cladding is still hot/warm?



The heat gun basically burns off a microscopically tiny (yep, technical measurement) layer of the oxidized cladding leaving it looking almost new. There's some good YouTube videos showing it in action on various vehicles. I chose 303 to protect the cladding from future oxidation just because it's a good product and has great UV protection. I put it on every couple months.

This was the most budget friendly, tried and true option for sprucing up the cladding. It basically just cost me time...and a tiny speck of skin where I bumped the heat gun.


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Little closer than I was this morning!
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Front OEM spring vs Moog 81088

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First, thank you for your kind words. Just paying forward the many kindnesses extended to me through the years.

Nice work on your T4R!

There's a permanent fix for the cladding. I had a bunch of similar faded trim on my Xterra and fixed it with DupliColor Trim & Bumper Paint.

Follow the whole process using the Grease & Wax Remover, Adhesion Promoter, and whatever else they recommend in the directions and it will look great forever. I had my X for years after painting the trim and it still looked great when I sold it.

Typical faded trim on a similar Xterra:

20150118_100647.jpg


Mine, 4+ years after painting the bumpers, headlight surrounds, grill, wheel well trim, and side strips:

gWBFpX-Bu_xduvGBh9Id5_Ljyrp5wC5Nof2J7OuzrnmvicroLj1DfhDdNgMrHN-L-PT4ovXk4oAIOeOu5r4IQhYHem9TR-0caywD3FJOpPeCThZogS-_1MZxOQ6e7K-tOLbOVNu-dGq22s0MO56V8G56vUfOGReZU-vFbvoXq3sAGNd0zQkEuYfyHuK9Ome__P-quYQo74vy8GdcvzM1zvm8UFgGquv_UROSonnAh2jM8e7f9miERoRMPTFDz0STzo2nArkI3-ewaFSN3itiWDtOmUDR3fbnodCUKLYqotlxIIAqu8OrbQXMvw3lEJ1lUafontZJtz1a4Uxep8EHsg0JiVidMNyHt2XVUGdxOFMspPZIRDGqCGZwqlp3TX7un7dJwCBMLsTFRxcohjEJWfVYEuoy61PPqhDxd6m0f3xxTfz0X3vCEu6v4m8sok7u2Z1JK-GQY6eIU_YNyC0q95Gy00gnhyCRlgLK0Mhp5vrCFiV8ZKk9Z_l1s07gCuIWOO2y8_7Zn8EGjrbBzgOG3750TIqk_cdQteesEEeYUZluhmYHrdNOF3z5ybxUJqfQNzNdqYk3AXaW9YxqvumYYRhRdRwFjLRZq3rXmBUkvyC_Nw=w1222-h916-no
 
First, thank you for your kind words. Just paying forward the many kindnesses extended to me through the years.

Nice work on your T4R!

There's a permanent fix for the cladding. I had a bunch of similar faded trim on my Xterra and fixed it with DupliColor Trim & Bumper Paint.

Follow the whole process using the Grease & Wax Remover, Adhesion Promoter, and whatever else they recommend in the directions and it will look great forever. I had my X for years after painting the trim and it still looked great when I sold it.

Typical faded trim on a similar Xterra:

20150118_100647.jpg


Mine, 4+ years after painting the bumpers, headlight surrounds, grill, wheel well trim, and side strips:

gWBFpX-Bu_xduvGBh9Id5_Ljyrp5wC5Nof2J7OuzrnmvicroLj1DfhDdNgMrHN-L-PT4ovXk4oAIOeOu5r4IQhYHem9TR-0caywD3FJOpPeCThZogS-_1MZxOQ6e7K-tOLbOVNu-dGq22s0MO56V8G56vUfOGReZU-vFbvoXq3sAGNd0zQkEuYfyHuK9Ome__P-quYQo74vy8GdcvzM1zvm8UFgGquv_UROSonnAh2jM8e7f9miERoRMPTFDz0STzo2nArkI3-ewaFSN3itiWDtOmUDR3fbnodCUKLYqotlxIIAqu8OrbQXMvw3lEJ1lUafontZJtz1a4Uxep8EHsg0JiVidMNyHt2XVUGdxOFMspPZIRDGqCGZwqlp3TX7un7dJwCBMLsTFRxcohjEJWfVYEuoy61PPqhDxd6m0f3xxTfz0X3vCEu6v4m8sok7u2Z1JK-GQY6eIU_YNyC0q95Gy00gnhyCRlgLK0Mhp5vrCFiV8ZKk9Z_l1s07gCuIWOO2y8_7Zn8EGjrbBzgOG3750TIqk_cdQteesEEeYUZluhmYHrdNOF3z5ybxUJqfQNzNdqYk3AXaW9YxqvumYYRhRdRwFjLRZq3rXmBUkvyC_Nw=w1222-h916-no



If this doesn't hold, I may paint because that looks great!


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At least the rear is now complete. Time for the front!
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Stock 4Runner rear spring compared to stock FJ rear spring

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I was pleasantly surprised by the ease, look, and durability of the DupliColor paint. I started small, fearing a homemade look, but it really came out well. Part of that was because I decided to 1) take my time and 2) meticulously follow the instructions.

It was one of those things that made me want to flag down other Xterra owners in parking lots and say, "Hey, your trim doesn't have to look like that..." I never did, but I wanted to. :-D

Fixing the trim definitely helped when I sold it. I paid $19K brand new and got $3500 for it after 11 years and well over 100K miles.
 
I was pleasantly surprised by the ease, look, and durability of the DupliColor paint. I started small, fearing a homemade look, but it really came out well. Part of that was because I decided to 1) take my time and 2) meticulously follow the instructions.

It was one of those things that made me want to flag down other Xterra owners in parking lots and say, "Hey, your trim doesn't have to look like that..." I never did, but I wanted to. :-D

Fixing the trim definitely helped when I sold it. I paid $19K brand new and got $3500 for it after 11 years and well over 100K miles.

Do you think this paint would work well on the black piece/step
just under the rear hatch on top of the rear bumper, mine is faded out to almost a light gray?
 

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